Snatch blocks

[Boondox]

Rob -- Thanks for putting my dilemma to words! The local JD dealer sells (and most of them use) a 6 ton rated snatchblock that costs less than $100. Never had a reported failure. So what do I get for the $450 unit that I don't get with the $100 unit?

Pete

 

[scott_vt]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You might want to PM someone like CT Tree Guy to ask his advice. I'd be wary of taking advice from another amateur on something like this. )</font>

Hi Ed,
If that was the case, there wouldnt be any forum /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

All kidding aside, that is a good suggestion, but you need to remember, that professionals in the tree removal business have specialized equipment to handle interlocking tree tops! Like cherry picker buckets, and clamp on spikes with a lot of climbing ability. The average gentlemen farmer doesnt have those resources, so he needs to improvise. Should you improvise in the sake of safety, no, and Im not advocating that you should, but trees were taken down long before all this specialized equipment came into use.

Whats the point of my statement, is that todays professionals wouldnt get themselves in a undesirable predicament with the tools they use, at least for the most part.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
scotty

 

[Boondox]

It's times like this when I remember with fondness my days in the Marine Corps. There was no tree in the world a couple wraps of det cord wouldn't move out of the way! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Pete

 

[scott_vt]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It's times like this when I remember with fondness my days in the Marine Corps. There was no tree in the world a couple wraps of det cord wouldn't move out of the way! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Pete )</font>

Yeah, and a lot more fun too /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

scotty

 

[dsgsr]

Pete, Unsure of what type of winch you have but if it's anything like my Fransgard and if you have more than one choker and slider you can hook one set to the anchor tree and one to the felling tree, that would work the same as a snatch block. Just make sure the anchor set is before the felling set on the winch cable.

David

 

[Maine_Polack]

I have used this block a lot. <font color="green"> web page </font> It is heavy, well built and works well. I use it more than I thought I would. Once used it to pull out a 4 wheeler that fell through the ice on a beaver bog. It was about 250' from where I could get the tractor located.

 

[IslandTractor]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( You might want to PM someone like CT Tree Guy to ask his advice. I'd be wary of taking advice from another amateur on something like this. )</font>

Hi Ed,
If that was the case, there wouldnt be any forum /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

All kidding aside, that is a good suggestion, but you need to remember, that professionals in the tree removal business have specialized equipment to handle interlocking tree tops! Like cherry picker buckets, and clamp on spikes with a lot of climbing ability. The average gentlemen farmer doesnt have those resources, so he needs to improvise. Should you improvise in the sake of safety, no, and Im not advocating that you should, but trees were taken down long before all this specialized equipment came into use.

Whats the point of my statement, is that todays professionals wouldnt get themselves in a undesirable predicament with the tools they use, at least for the most part.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
scotty )</font>

Hey, I hear ya. I don't mind hearing all sorts of sometimes nutty ideas on tractor purchases etc but when it comes to felling big ole trees I suddenly get religion and want to hear from a pro. Your point about how a pro would do it differently is certainly correct but that is exactly why they would be the best people to ask as they would know all the pitfalls of doing it the wrong way. I presume someone like CTTreeGuy would know the best way to approach this problem in a setting where he couldn't get a cherry picker or other specialized equipment close enough.

 

[StevenPaul]

Not to take away from the snatch block issue but this is sweet!

http://www.valbysales.com/newpage100.htm

I know this has the backhoe kind of setup but yet appears to be not so heavy duty as a backhoe. Is it possible to use for other applications around the farm and also I wonder if the grapple can be interchanged with other type "implements"(ie; platform for materials, cage for person, etc.) The possibilities for those hard to reach repair jobs would be great with this little setup. Also, the cart, I wonder if you could load a couple of round bales on it? Just some food for thought. Anybody else have any TBN ideas /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif for this rig?

Steve

 

[Bobvt]

For the past two years have used a 8 ton snatch block ($49 at www.store.rnventions.com). It has worked fine. I have used it on some pretty big stuff (24'' hemlock & 24''+ maple). I use it so much, I never remove it from the winch cable (just behind the sliders). My winch is rated at 10,200 lbs.

Bob

 

[Boondox]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Not to take away from the snatch block issue but this is sweet!

http://www.valbysales.com/newpage100.htm

I know this has the backhoe kind of setup but yet appears to be not so heavy duty as a backhoe. Is it possible to use for other applications around the farm and also I wonder if the grapple can be interchanged with other type "implements"(ie; platform for materials, cage for person, etc.) The possibilities for those hard to reach repair jobs would be great with this little setup. Also, the cart, I wonder if you could load a couple of round bales on it? Just some food for thought. Anybody else have any TBN ideas /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif for this rig?

Steve )</font>

Tactfully steering this thread back on track in the face of a blatant hijack attempt... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I lost the response from the member who had a snatchblock mounted right to his cable upstream of the sliders, but that sounds like a great way of keeping it handy and never having to worry about leaving it behind!

Thanks for the suggestion! Do you just anchor it with a chain around a tree..?

Pete

 

[StevenPaul]

my apologies folks, I should've started a new thread about the "we shall not name it thingamajig". Got a little carried away there, it's easy in here to do when you see such cool stuff.

As a side note Boondox, your snatch block topic led me this morning to all sorts of interesting places, so thanks for the topic. This may or may not be related to snatch blocks but you or somebody you know may find it useful. It's about tree harvesting on a small scale and it does mention snatch blocks. Again, if this wrong for me to post this, I apologize. I'm trying to make up for my first mistake. Some of you may have already seen this. I better git while the gitten's good! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

http://www.northeastimplement.com/newpage3.htm

Steve
"humility/humbleness...who needs it?....we all do!

 

[John_Mc]

Pete -

Another possibility you've probably already thought of:

I assume you want to drop it uphill so you can pull it out butt first downhill (if I'm picturing your description correctly). What about dropping it downhill, limbing it where it falls, and pulling it out top first? Would this let you use a direct connection from your logging winch, rather than through a snatchblock? Would you be far enough away with your tractor to pull it free of the entangling crowns without pulling it down onto yourself?

I generally pull things out butt first, but there are occasions where top first just makes more sense... for example, when that's the only way I have an opening to drop the tree. Of course, without a logging winch, my options are more limited than yours.

John Mc

 

[SkogenMe]

The cheapo Jet came in handy today...wanted to drop an oak away from its center of gravity through other oak tops.
Tree front left is the one being pulled down. Tree on the right is where the snatch block is. Tractor is behind.

 

[SkogenMe]

Snatch block on webbing....although it is not needed in this situation go with the self releasing if you can ....alot more rugged.

 

[SkogenMe]

one last one

 

[Boondox]

John -- There are times when I'll do that out of necessity, but I vastly prefer butt first so I can pull the entire tree home and not have to go back uphill with the Chevy to retrieve the burnable limbs. Like most Vermonters, I am loath to waste anything so leaving the limbs on the hill is not an option.

I see we're practically neighbors (I'm 25 miles ESE of the Burlington blight), so we're talking about the same weather, types of trees and topography. Small world!

Pete

 

[Boondox]

Thanks for the pics! That's exactly how I want to use my winch, though my terrain is between a 20-30 degree slope. So part of my concern is safety. Another is there are times when I could drop a tree easily, but not without risking damage to a very nice looking younger rock maple that deserves a long life.

Pete

 

[Bobvt]

I use a "tree saver" strap with loops at both ends. I think "rnventions" sells them as well. A chain cuts into the bark and can really damage a good tree.

I use the the snatch block a lot to fall trees in a particular direction. Getting them laid right saves a lot of work, wear and tear on machinery and damage to adjoining trees.

Bob

 

[Bobvt]

I use a "tree saver" strap. I think rnventions sells them as well. A chain cuts and can really damage a good tree.

Bob

 

[AndyMA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
I generally pull things out butt first, but there are occasions where top first just makes more sense... for example, when that's the only way I have an opening to drop the tree. Of course, without a logging winch, my options are more limited than yours.

John Mc )</font>

I use to pull things out Butt first until I read the "Valby Method" on their web site and tried it. Now I almost always pull out top first. Think about it it acts like a wedge and pulls much more easitly and does much less damage. They also work themselves aroudn obstacles and get hung up much less often.

Pure physics

Andy