Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snow Rookie

[KTurner]

I'm in southeast VA, where we were just smacked with the biggest snowfall in over two decades. Last year we had significantly more snow than normal, and this year we had four snowfalls before the first day of winter (five so far).

Once last year, and for this past 12"+ snowfall, I hooked the rear blade to the tractor and worked on clearing the 500ft private driveway (~350ft is paved). Some of the time everything lined up just right, and snow would discharge from the end of the blade, but most of the time the snow just piled up between the blade and the tractor, dragging a big pile down the driveway (making things worse). It's an old 6ft blade. The only adjustment I can see (on the blade itself) is to change the angle (parallel to the rear axle, or 4 other settings, 2 in each direction). There's also the 3ph settings. How do you setup a rear blade for snow removal? Should I remove the rust, paint and/or wax the blade to help the snow slide across it?

Also, what's the thought on removing ice on public roads? About 100 ft from the top of our driveway is a very sharp curve (90 degree bend), which, from looking at the tracks in the snow, at least four vehicles have slid through in the past two days. About five years ago, someone slid through the curve and knocked down the utility pole, resulting in no electricity for this area on a very cold night. Right now, the curve is 2" of ice and in the shade. The local govt hasn't touched this road with anything (snow plow/salt/sand/etc), and the snow stopped two days ago. I don't see a rear blade doing any good here. Is there something I can put down (other than a bonfire) to help keep people from sliding through the curve?

Thanks
Keith

 

[Egon]

Cleaning the rear blade surface will help. Some folks spray Pam on their snowblower chutes to make things slippery.

If you have a front bucket have you tried that?

Call your local authorities before doing anything on a public road.

 

[wetstuff]

Kieth - I learned a trick when living in Wisconsin. The State plow buries your drive entry with a bow-wave of snow off a massive front blade. You need to drag the snow off the road, of about 100' or more, to the left of your entry.

About that curve, for your self-preservation, I'd do it. Help old ladies, but help yourself first. Who could possibly object!? ..the contractor the county hires? Besides the way snow blows - it's not like they will find the business card you left for them.

Last winter (remember the big ones in DC) I only had a Furgeson 40 (1957) with no chains and baldish tires .. and 900' to clear to get out to a road that is almost never plowed 'till the next day. The only thing I would suggest, don't drop the blade all the way down to the deck. Do half the depth at a time - and do it at speed. Angle the **** out of the blade: watch it fly. I probably had to drag the lane at least 4X in each storm. Don't wait 'till the snow stops. Stay ahead of it.

Jim/Salisbury MD

... I got a small J-D with proper blade off a Jeep about 6wks ago.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Not sure what type of tractor you have but I have found speed is king. I used my FEL and 7' rear blade and before that a 6' blade behind my 4x4 Jinma 28 HP tractor. Weight on the tractor will also help with the speed, I am at 5,600#.

I now run a 7' Meyer snow plow in place of my bucket on my tractor and run about 7-8 mph when pushing snow. I actually run with the snow plow down and the rear grader blade also. I can move 12" of snow off a 400' drive in 2 passes and about 5 minutes.

Chris

 

[JDGreenGrass]

A tip I would add is.....When you angle the blade it changes the "tilt" angle. Find the angle that works best for you and then "flatten" the blade to parallel or, on plane with your rear tires. Your 3pt. hitch should have adjustment for tilt.

Try to keep your blade clean with a wipe of clothe and a light oil. I have used the cooking oil Pam on my walk=behind blower and certainly helped.

 

[hawkeye08]

I second the staying ahead of it comment. I am in my first year with my Kubota (Gravely riders with snowblower, blade, loader previous years) using my FEL. It goes fairly fast, just scoop and dump in pile when I can't push it more until I get to the end, then scoop across to clear the end piles, seems to work well.

We got 15-20", several deep drifts, one about 7' (that I do not have to clear). We had rain and almost 40 degree weather the last few days before the snow started early this morning. It was right at 32 degrees and snowed most of the day.

I need to move things around in the shop so I can put the back blade on and give it a try. I need to pick up a piece of pipe (will ABS work?).

 

[randy41]

i have a ford 1710 with 4wd...no FEL. when the snow is > 10" or so i need to run my tractor backwards with the blade turned around. even then there's a limit to what i can push without having to push the accumulated pile off to the side. my driveway is exposed to the wind so i try to push the snow to the opposite side that the wind blows from. otherwise the snow i pile up on that side acts like a snow fence and deposits a drift right on my driveway.

 

[KTurner]

The tractor is a Ford 3230, 2wd, no FEL, with filled rear tires. Weight is abt 4,500lbs, plus whatever is in the rear tires. I don't remember the size of the tires, but total weight should be well over 5,000 (not including the 6' rear blade).

I'll do some work on the rear blade - wire wheel to remove the rust and then put a couple coats of paint on it. I guess I need to find some blue to match the tractor . Next time the snow starts falling, I'll get out earlier, spray some pam on the blade and go faster.

Thanks for all the tips.
Keith

 

[Bill Hoffman]

I run a 7' landpride rear blade on my B7800. Angle it to one side, and the
snow should roll right off. Speed is important. I replaced both vertical
links on the 3 pt hitch with chain. This allows the blade to follow the
contours of the drive without digging in regardless of what the tractor
is doing. The rigid links are of no use in this application, there's no down
force applied by the 3 pt other than the weight of the plow. The chains
allow the blade to move up and down according to the contours of the
driveway. There's no sideways motion because the 3 pt won't move side-
to-side unless the check chains are loose.

You adjust the aggressiveness of the cut by adjusting the top link. Shorter top
link will result is a less aggressive cut, longer top link adjustment will give
a more aggressive cut.

Normally when you change the angle of the plow the fixed links make the plow
"tilt" and no longer stay parallel with the surface you're plowing. Using the vertical
chain set-up keeps this from happening.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[tcartwri]

The key to working with heavy wet snow, is to not wait for it to settle. Get out there and clear it several times during the storm.

 

[wvpolekat]

As others have said, it is about speed. At slow speeds, the snow will pile up in front of the blade, even with it angled. I run a 6 foot blade behind my Kubota and plow in high range, RPMs to the governor and the go pedal to the floor. I still want more speed to throw the snow. With the right kind of snow, I can get it to fly about a foot from the end of the blade. This is usually wet, slushy snow. The dry, fluffy snow tends to kind of "poof" off the end of the blade. The heavy wet snow is the stuff you can watch curl off the blade, but doesn't go far.

I have mixed feelings about replacing the lift links with chain. The advantage there to me would be able to lift the blade higher by shortening them. I have problems with the blade dragging when I come off the driveway into the road and that may help with that.

Setting how aggressive it cuts is a matter of trial and error as well as what you want to accomplish. If you are trying to get down to pavement, you will need it fairly aggressive to cut the packed stuff at the bottom.

I should also note that plowing uses MUCH more fuel than any other tractor duty. With a full blade, pulling a moderate hill I lose about half my ground speed and you can hear the little Kubota giving it all it has and the black smoke is rolling from the exhaust.

I plow a private road that is about 1/3 of a mile with several elevation changes and curves. I do try to focus more on the curves for the exact reason you give, safety. I have never ventured out on the public road we are off, but would not hesitate to do it if things got bad enough. They stop plowing/treating about 1/2-3/4 mile from my road until about 2-3 days after snow. The big problem I see is that with our 6' blades, we can't get the snow off the edge of a 16-20' wide road. So, you would only clear a path unless you made 4 passes or kept changing your blade angle to windrow in one direction.

Some safety items to keep in mind:

When your blade hits a heavy pile of snow while angled, 2 things can happen. 1) It can push the side of the tractor over. 2) That pile can become a fulcrum and you will pivot around it, usually ending up pointed into the ditch or in it.

LIGHTS! Lots of them. Whenever I get out on even my private road, I have every light on the tractor going. 2 55w lights forward, 1 55w light back and the hazards. I want to make sure people can see me. Snow kills visibility quick.

If you are out in a blowing snow, goggles are almost a must. Unless you have a cab of course. Good gloves are also worth their weight in gold. Beyond that, I wear insulated overalls, a medium coat and a hat. Generally don't give much thought to footwear, usually just a pair of uninsulated pull on boots.

One last thing. The blade and/or bucket are useless parking/emergency brakes on ice. I took an exciting ride down my driveway. Dropped both when I started to slide with little to no effect. I have found that dropping the rear blade can be somewhat effective at keeping you pointed downhill though. I now have a large snow bank built up at the bottom of my driveway as an emergency stop to keep me from going over the hill, but haven't tested it.

 

[wetstuff]

KT .. Here's the Snow's Worst Enemy.*

This guy around the corner from my shop blasts thru snow with total disregard to machine. Part of the secret is that the engine has new pistons, etc. so it makes all of its power - and he's not shy about cropping it. Look under the ****** top: he mounted a $10 boat seat and rotates about 45deg so he does not need to go to the Chiro after each snow.

I made him the top .. because he leaves it outside 24/7/365 .. and he does my parking area in front at N/C.

Jim

* for $400 .. and a few new parts. Certainly nothing like


wvp .. has it right too. Ski googles w/RainX .. balaclava .. good gloves .. felt lined boots if it's cold .. and insulated bibs. You can stay out quite a long time, even in heavy winds.