snowblower problems auger

habber · Dec 10, 2009

No ice build up...I can move the auger freely buy hand, the salesman gave me the same advice.

Couple of Achers · Dec 11, 2009

I'll ask the same question Matt Jr asked. Are you engaging the pto slowly with the clutch on low rpm and then throttling up?

DMW · Dec 11, 2009

I broke 4 shear pins the first hour with a new 48" blower on a GC2300. It didn't like being engaged when raised, or at an engine speed above idle. If the blower is a new unit, try letting it sit for a while spinning freely to work in the gears, it seemed to work for me. Only 1 bolt replaced the next 2 years.

Dirtnut · Dec 11, 2009

habber said:
O.K, I put a new shear pin in and started up the blower...it broke the pin but the auger unsiezed. Everytime I put a new shear pin in it breaks as soon as I start up the blower???? I went through 3 pins before I quit.

t

This happened to me on a Lorenz blower i got from a JD dealer.It would shear pins as soon as you would start to put a little load to it. Now im not saying driving fast ramming to much snow in it.Im saying anything over 4" of snow it could not handle it would shear pins even grade 8.I ended up drilling the hole out and using a bigger soft bolt & it works great now & still have sheard these bolts easily when rocks or ice chunks get in it. My augers also have shear bolts.I think this is why the previous owner got rid of the blower,when i got it the paint was still on the fan blades it wasnt used much it was a steal at $600.00.

PILOON · Dec 11, 2009

I always use grade 5 bolts as shear pins.

5 shears cleanly while grade 3 will kinda bend leaving ragged edges that are hard to drive out. Also 3 will mess up the pin holes (render them oval). I believe that most blower manuals will actually call for grade 5.

habber · Dec 12, 2009

Seems most of you are right. I spoke to the dealer today and he asked me if I was letting it idle first or letting it rip into 540. I guess it's my fault as I was starting out at full steam. I eased into it today and no broken shear pins. Thanks you all for the advice.

t

NIdaho · Dec 14, 2009

Hey Guys,

On the subject of bolt grades to use as shear pins. My brother is a Lead Millright and has managed to keep several sawmills running for years. His advice to me was to either use a Grade 2 bolt or to use a Grade 8 bolt but to never use a Grade 5 as a shear pin.

As we know Grade 2 bolts are soft and will shear fairly easily. The Grade 8 bolts are hard and are actually brittle so when they are subjected to impact they shear off as well. He said that the Grade 5 are hard enough to not want to shear easily, and not brittle like the Grade 8 bolts.

WilliamBos · Dec 15, 2009

NIdaho said:
Hey Guys,

On the subject of bolt grades to use as shear pins. My brother is a Lead Millright and has managed to keep several sawmills running for years. His advice to me was to either use a Grade 2 bolt or to use a Grade 8 bolt but to never use a Grade 5 as a shear pin.

As we know Grade 2 bolts are soft and will shear fairly easily. The Grade 8 bolts are hard and are actually brittle so when they are subjected to impact they shear off as well. He said that the Grade 5 are hard enough to not want to shear easily, and not brittle like the Grade 8 bolts.

Thanks for the explanation. That explains why Farm King calls of Gr. 8 shear bolt.