Snowblowing rules of thumb

[jgayman]

I have B1750 Kubota with rear snowblower. My problem is, I can't figure out how to stop the grader blade from swinging sideways which causes it to dip and ending up tearing up the road and grass on side of road.

Your 3PH should have short stabilizer chains running from the lift arms to a mount point on the tractor. They usually have a turnbuckle adjustment or something similar. Tighten these up to remove the side-side play in the lift arms.

 

[JAB38]

Hi jgayman...thank you for your reply. Went to apply your info and to my dismay....somehow....I've lost the turnbuckle on one side??? Geeezzzz!! Will replace and things should be good. Thanks again...appreciated.

 

[JAB38]

Your 3PH should have short stabilizer chains running from the lift arms to a mount point on the tractor. They usually have a turnbuckle adjustment or something similar. Tighten these up to remove the side-side play in the lift arms.

Hi jgayman...thank you for your reply. Went to apply your info and to my dismay....somehow....I've lost the turnbuckle on one side??? Geeezzzz!! Will replace and things should be good. Thanks again...appreciated.

 

[jgayman]

Hi jgayman...thank you for your reply. Went to apply your info and to my dismay....somehow....I've lost the turnbuckle on one side??? Geeezzzz!! Will replace and things should be good. Thanks again...appreciated.

Great! Glad to hear it is a simple fix!

 

[kiotiken]

Hi jgayman...thank you for your reply. Went to apply your info and to my dismay....somehow....I've lost the turnbuckle on one side??? Geeezzzz!! Will replace and things should be good. Thanks again...appreciated.

Do yourself I giant favor and see if you can buy telescopic stabilizer bars from Kubota to fit your machine.

 

[JAB38]

Do yourself I giant favor and see if you can buy telescopic stabilizer bars from Kubota to fit your machine.

Thanks for info....will certainly check it out

 

[simonds]

I have a salamander heater in my garage to use while working in there and for other uses, like thawing out water pipes. I'll set this directly in front of the blower, pointing it directly into the auger. Doesn't take very long for the ice and snow to melt and run off and it will be mostly dry. Hope you have a floor drain. If not be sure to move the blower to a different location or off the floor on blocks. It could freeze to the puddle on the floor over night if it gets to cold in there.

 

[JAB38]

I have a salamander heater in my garage to use while working in there and for other uses, like thawing out water pipes. I'll set this directly in front of the blower, pointing it directly into the auger. Doesn't take very long for the ice and snow to melt and run off and it will be mostly dry. Hope you have a floor drain. If not be sure to move the blower to a different location or off the floor on blocks. It could freeze to the puddle on the floor over night if it gets to cold in there.

Hi Simonds
Thank you for reply although you may have misread my quote? Matter of fact now that I read it I was not very clear either....mentioned I had read snowblower...but this year going to try using the grader blade instead. I did order a replacement turnbuckle and already installed. BUT, I also heeded info I received and contacted Mark Hodge. I have "stabilizer bars" ordered for January/15....this guy is busy!!! and very nice to deal with....seems to take life in stride and keeps busy in his workshop[

 

[bruceha2000]

I'm seriously small potatoes here but:
I got a 24 HP Sears garden tractor with 54" deck this spring and the 50" Agri-Fab snowblower late this fall. I don't know if this is standard on blowers or not but the AF chute only rotates 90 degrees from center. That isn't far enough, sometimes you need to blow farther back to avoid blowing onto things you should not be dumping snow on. The other option, not always available, is to blow it the opposite direction so the wind can blow it right back at you. Also not desirable.

The "gear" under the chute is plastic and has grooves cut out for the spiral turner to engage. I used my Dremel to cut an additional groove on both "ends" and now can blow about 120 degrees from center. I had to take off the bolted on "rotation stop" and grind off the one molded into the "gear" but they aren't needed anyway. The spiral turner can't turn what it can't engage.

 

[Fluid]

I'm seriously small potatoes here but:
I got a 24 HP Sears garden tractor with 54" deck this spring and the 50" Agri-Fab snowblower late this fall. I don't know if this is standard on blowers or not but the AF chute only rotates 90 degrees from center. That isn't far enough, sometimes you need to blow farther back to avoid blowing onto things you should not be dumping snow on. The other option, not always available, is to blow it the opposite direction so the wind can blow it right back at you. Also not desirable.

The "gear" under the chute is plastic and has grooves cut out for the spiral turner to engage. I used my Dremel to cut an additional groove on both "ends" and now can blow about 120 degrees from center. I had to take off the bolted on "rotation stop" and grind off the one molded into the "gear" but they aren't needed anyway. The spiral turner can't turn what it can't engage.

Maybe you can post some pictures of your snowblower mods and you snow removal rig on the thread "Show Us Your Snow Weapons" I would like to see your blower chute mods.

 

[Fluid]

I'm seriously small potatoes here but:
I got a 24 HP Sears garden tractor with 54" deck this spring and the 50" Agri-Fab snowblower late this fall. I don't know if this is standard on blowers or not but the AF chute only rotates 90 degrees from center. That isn't far enough, sometimes you need to blow farther back to avoid blowing onto things you should not be dumping snow on. The other option, not always available, is to blow it the opposite direction so the wind can blow it right back at you. Also not desirable.

The "gear" under the chute is plastic and has grooves cut out for the spiral turner to engage. I used my Dremel to cut an additional groove on both "ends" and now can blow about 120 degrees from center. I had to take off the bolted on "rotation stop" and grind off the one molded into the "gear" but they aren't needed anyway. The spiral turner can't turn what it can't engage.

Maybe you can post some pictures of your snowblower mods and you snow removal rig on the thread "Pictures of Your Snow Weapons" I would like to see your blower chute mods.

 

[bruceha2000]

Maybe you can post some pictures of your snowblower mods and you snow removal rig on the thread "Pictures of Your Snow Weapons" I would like to see your blower chute mods.

Done

 

[6sunset6]

Snow Blowing
Here is one for the books. I have a 34 HP HST 78" Plow on front 64" blower on back. I usually plow at 6" and blow if deeper than that. We just had 12" on top of 4" on top of ice. Went out to blow out the 12" I have 1000 ft of flat road and parking. 800 ft is Blacktop. Hiked out to the barn Got her running plowed some space Turned around and started backing down blowing. Oh yeah have a loose fitting canvas cab. Wind was fickle so I was running backwards in a cloud. Before I knew it I had slid off the driveway sort of parallel. No go. Hiked back to the house , not plowed yet , got a snow shovel, dug it out. No go big piles by now . Dropped the plow dug it out again. Little back and forth and with out the weight of the plow it came out.
I had wet gloves, wet pants, wet boots and wet socks. I have not been that wet and cold in 50 years maybe longer.

 

[TugHillDog]

and still had to clean the drive!
That, my friend, is why God inspired us to use charcoal to mellow sour mash whiskey!

 

[WilliamTO-35]

A couple of posts above mentioned spraying various slippery substances into the discharge chute so that slush will not clog it. I found that to be absolutely necessary with my snowblower, or it clogs in slush very quickly. I use a DuPont dry spray with teflon , since I had a couple of cans on hand, but I'm sure most of the other suggestions ( vegetable oil, WD-40) also work . The first time I used my walk behind 24 inch wide snowblower , I was disappointed at the performance in wet snow. Then I read, on this forum, the slippery spray trick . Now, my snow blower almost never clogs ! What I can't understand is why the factory manual doesn't mention using a spray. They simply suggest going more slowly. That did not work for me.
The teflon spray comes out of the can as a liquid stream, and builds up a visible thickness on the chute after the volatiles evaporate. It stays effective for about 3 hours of use . I haven't tried using the spray on the auger or impeller wheel , since they usually don't clog. Is there any advantage to spraying those other parts ?

 

[Shift4200]

A couple of posts above mentioned spraying various slippery substances into the discharge chute so that slush will not clog it. I found that to be absolutely necessary with my snowblower, or it clogs in slush very quickly. I use a DuPont dry spray with teflon , since I had a couple of cans on hand, but I'm sure most of the other suggestions ( vegetable oil, WD-40) also work . The first time I used my walk behind 24 inch wide snowblower , I was disappointed at the performance in wet snow. Then I read, on this forum, the slippery spray trick . Now, my snow blower almost never clogs ! What I can't understand is why the factory manual doesn't mention using a spray. They simply suggest going more slowly. That did not work for me.
The teflon spray comes out of the can as a liquid stream, and builds up a visible thickness on the chute after the volatiles evaporate. It stays effective for about 3 hours of use . I haven't tried using the spray on the auger or impeller wheel , since they usually don't clog. Is there any advantage to spraying those other parts ?

Personally I spray everything. Figure there's no harm in the snow not sticking to the auger or fan. That and I see no reason not to... i'm already there, already spraying.... why not? Only drawback i can see is cost of whatever you choose to spray. I'd rather spend a few bucks and get thru the process as fast as possible vs saving pennies per blow. (lol)

As far as benefits, if your not sticking without it... i really cant see any considerable benefit.

-J

 

[Tony H]

A couple of posts above mentioned spraying various slippery substances into the discharge chute so that slush will not clog it. I found that to be absolutely necessary with my snowblower, or it clogs in slush very quickly. I use a DuPont dry spray with teflon , since I had a couple of cans on hand, but I'm sure most of the other suggestions ( vegetable oil, WD-40) also work . The first time I used my walk behind 24 inch wide snowblower , I was disappointed at the performance in wet snow. Then I read, on this forum, the slippery spray trick . Now, my snow blower almost never clogs ! What I can't understand is why the factory manual doesn't mention using a spray. They simply suggest going more slowly. That did not work for me.
The teflon spray comes out of the can as a liquid stream, and builds up a visible thickness on the chute after the volatiles evaporate. It stays effective for about 3 hours of use . I haven't tried using the spray on the auger or impeller wheel , since they usually don't clog. Is there any advantage to spraying those other parts ?

We live in a terrible lawsuit/liability country.
My guess is the manufacturers are worried about mentioning getting hands anywhere near anything that might spin. Even if we all should be smart enough to shut it off.
Look up "Clarence modification". you can make this up yourself without buying the it. It will never clog again and it will shoot farther.

 

[Todd8665]

Well hello neighbor, Chocolay Township here. I think I know where your house is based on the pictures...north side of 480?

Great list. Only thing I can think of is dealing with the snow pack. I do just enough in the morning to get the cars in and out, then do a more thural job at night or on the weekend. Pack was more of a problem when I had only my lawnmower with a blower on the front. Still if I let the cars pack it down, and as you know we can get snow 5-7 days a week, my blower(rear mount) will ride on what was packed down and this will build and build.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Well hello neighbor, Chocolay Township here. I think I know where your house is based on the pictures...north side of 480?

Great list. Only thing I can think of is dealing with the snow pack. I do just enough in the morning to get the cars in and out, then do a more thural job at night or on the weekend. Pack was more of a problem when I had only my lawnmower with a blower on the front. Still if I let the cars pack it down, and as you know we can get snow 5-7 days a week, my blower(rear mount) will ride on what was packed down and this will build and build.

The list is the result of 30+ years of my experience and the ideas of others who have posted here. I live on the road that the Sands Speedway is on. It was CR 553 until 553 was moved in 1978. Now our little stretch of road (1.3 miles) is called "Old CR 553" and you enter it from "Flodin Rd." I agree that buildup can be a ***** in April, but I am retired so I try to keep on top of it.

 

[Cord]

As a child you learned to not piss into the wind (sorry ladies). For the life of me, I don't understand why people can't learn to not blow into the wind.