k0ua
Epic Contributor
Agreed, if the battery is disconnected then it would not matter..
Here is a good start on learning a bit more about using a multimeter
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter
Solar Batter Tenders
- Thread starter Indygunworks
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Agreed, if the battery is disconnected then it would not matter..
Here is a good start on learning a bit more about using a multimeter
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
good link.... Thank you.... I think I might run by HF (its only a mile) and pick up the solar charger.... Ill try it indoors under the skylight for a little while to see if I even need to add the extra wire and run the panel out back.
Threepoint
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+1 to James' advice on the $15 HF charger he links to. A neighbor uses that unit to maintain his Kubota M6040 battery in a remote shed. It should work fine mounted under the skylight, as we're just talking about a trickle charge to keep you topped up. Built-in diodes will prevent it from discharging the battery when no light is available.
Gary Fowler
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I have two 15 watt solar chargers hooked directly to 12 volt batteries with no controller. MY brother in law uses one on a 12 volt car battery that operates a gate opener and I have the other one doing the same thing. He has used his gate opener for over 5 years with no problems. I did have to move my panel to face directly south when winter came on to keep the battery charged. I had it facing West during the summer as it was more convenient to mount it that way but it didn't get enough sunlight during the winter.
I had use my solar panel a couple years keeping my JD 332 battery charged and it worked very well. It had about 25 feet of power cord that was salvaged from a vacuum cleaner cord.
I think I would try to find that drain on your battery and if not found, get the disconnect installed but still use a solar panel to keep a charge going. My panel puts out 15 watts @ 12 volts so that is 1.25 amps.
I don't know if 1.5 watts would do much to charge a battery if that is truly what the HF panel puts out.
I had use my solar panel a couple years keeping my JD 332 battery charged and it worked very well. It had about 25 feet of power cord that was salvaged from a vacuum cleaner cord.
I think I would try to find that drain on your battery and if not found, get the disconnect installed but still use a solar panel to keep a charge going. My panel puts out 15 watts @ 12 volts so that is 1.25 amps.
I don't know if 1.5 watts would do much to charge a battery if that is truly what the HF panel puts out.
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
So can you give me a brief explanation on how to use a multi meter to tell if I have a positive ground system or not? I am sure it has something to do with checking the voltage from the battery to the frame.
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
I also picked up the 1.5 watt solar batter charger today. I am going to start with it mounted under the skylight where the cord is long enough to just hang down and get hooked up to the battery, however I do have another option.
If I add about 15 feet of cord, I can use the suction cups and put this on the sliding glass door that I put on the south side of the barn. I can put it on the non moving side, and run the wire behind the posts and stapled to the purlins. This would put it south facing, on a glass surface that will not allow snow accumulation preventing it from getting light. All I need to pick up is some speaker wire, but I still need to check around and see where I can buy that stuff by the foot. maybe lows or home depot?
If I add about 15 feet of cord, I can use the suction cups and put this on the sliding glass door that I put on the south side of the barn. I can put it on the non moving side, and run the wire behind the posts and stapled to the purlins. This would put it south facing, on a glass surface that will not allow snow accumulation preventing it from getting light. All I need to pick up is some speaker wire, but I still need to check around and see where I can buy that stuff by the foot. maybe lows or home depot?
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
I am also going to add the disconnect no matter what. I have to many other things to get done than spend a day trying to track down the short when its sort of grey territory for me to begin with. Ill consider finding that short a luxury project to be tacked when I have nothing better to do.
On many tractors (being fairly open access) it is easy to just follow the battery cables.
Visually follow the thick cable attached to your Negative battery terminal - if the far end has it's connector bolted to the frame, then your system is negative ground. With this setup, a DMM on DC volts will measure battery voltage with the black meter lead on bare frame metal, and the red meter lead directly touching the + terminal of the battery.
Rgds, D.
Visually follow the thick cable attached to your Negative battery terminal - if the far end has it's connector bolted to the frame, then your system is negative ground. With this setup, a DMM on DC volts will measure battery voltage with the black meter lead on bare frame metal, and the red meter lead directly touching the + terminal of the battery.
Rgds, D.
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
Would it be common for a 1980 ford 340 (essentially a 3000 or 4000) to be a positive ground?
If this is your Ford:
TractorData.com Ford 340 tractor information
.... then it's listed as Neg. ground.
Rgds, D.
TractorData.com Ford 340 tractor information
.... then it's listed as Neg. ground.
Rgds, D.