Solar Power Shed Project

   / Solar Power Shed Project
  • Thread Starter
#161  
Little_Grizzly said:
I must have some kind of setting problem. I don't see any pictures in this thread! Any ideas what could be wrong?
Go to "My Home" which is on top of any thread or opening page and then to "Edit Options" on the left side. Scroll down to "Thread display Options" and check the boxes that say "show signatures" show avatars" and "show images".
Try that and let us know if that worked.
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project #162  
Rob, thanks for the pictures and description of this project. The exaughst looks very safe to me. I dont think Ive ever seen a better set up. There is a lot of money in that shed, and Im glad to see such a professional job. It seems like you have stayed on top ao all the details quite well. Oh dont worry bout a few trees. I know you wanted them, but if thats the worst that went wrong you are going good. What is the life span of those panels? can you replace any single one that goes bad or are they "ganged" together?
Thanks again for sharing this project.
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project
  • Thread Starter
#163  
Hi Pat,
Thanks for eyeballing the fire aspect of the exhaust.
It was one thing I wanted to insulate correctly to avoid a major melt down. I know you are a fire chief (was) so I'm glad you approve.

As far as the panels go, I don't know the lifespan of them? My neighbor has 10 year old technology that is still working for him and I know these panels are latest technology and probably have improvements in them regarding both efficiency and longevity. Just a guess though.
They can be individually repaired (or) replaced. Taking one out will affect the overall out put of the panels of course, but on Summer days it would probably not matter, since these arrays will fill the battery pack in about 2 hours during the Summer. Aside from that, we have the 20kW Cummins generator in case. About the Oaks, what's done is done and we'll get over it. Other than that, this guy has done a very good job with the project. The GC will have power up there when he starts building the house. We are already using the system to charge our batteries and stuff that we use at camp. I'm thinking about bringing up one of those small refrigerators to keep some Cold Beers up there???
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project #164  
Wow!
That's some array. I'm only runnig 8, 175 watt panels and I'm thinking of splitting them between two racks because we get tough wind in the mountains here from time to time.
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project #165  
3RRL said:
Go to "My Home" which is on top of any thread or opening page and then to "Edit Options" on the left side. Scroll down to "Thread display Options" and check the boxes that say "show signatures" show avatars" and "show images".
Try that and let us know if that worked.

Sorry for the thread hijack but now I'm noticing I'm missing pictures on many threads.

Yes all three of thos items were/are selected. Any ideas?
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project
  • Thread Starter
#166  
Little_Grizzly said:
Sorry for the thread hijack but now I'm noticing I'm missing pictures on many threads.

Yes all three of thos items were/are selected. Any ideas?
Sorry, I don't know?
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project #167  
3RRL said:
Hi Pat,

...They can be individually repaired (or) replaced. Taking one out will affect the overall out put of the panels of course, but on Summer days it would probably not matter, since these arrays will fill the battery pack in about 2 hours during the Summer....

Rob, Interesting project. Almost certainly your contactor has wired your panels into series strings of panels for a higher voltage (and smaller wire size). The Outback MX-60 in your system converts that to the 48 VDC charging voltage with a high degree of efficiency. It has some minimum input voltage. You could remove panels from these series strings (due to failure) as long as you were above that minimum input voltage. Your contractor probably also has parallel strings. The parallel strings much match each other in voltage. In that case you would need to remove a panel from each parallel string. Panels problably have quick disconnect wiring, so this kind of a repair is very easy to implement.

The idea of putting a load to test your system is a good one. If you hooked up a 1500 watt heater to a timer, you could consume closer to what you produce. 4500 watts on the panels for one hour will run the heater for 3 hours (asuming no losses in your system). This could give you a more realistic test than just the small refigerator. Just an idea for you to chew on.

Good Luck,

Jim
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project
  • Thread Starter
#168  
The idea of putting a load to test your system is a good one. If you hooked up a 1500 watt heater to a timer, you could consume closer to what you produce. 4500 watts on the panels for one hour will run the heater for 3 hours (asuming no losses in your system). This could give you a more realistic test than just the small refigerator. Just an idea for you to chew on.

That is a great idea Jim, thank you.
I'll have to scrounge up a heater ( I think I have one or two) and try it out.
Also, I will ask the contractor how to remove the panels in the event of failure and re-wire the remaining ones in order to receive the minimum input. He still has to write up the "overview" of the system for us, kind of like an operating instruction manual, and give the "walk through" on the system. I'll ask him to include it.

Over all, we are very pleased with what he's done so far.
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project #169  
Rob,

You may want to consider painting the inside of the shed with an Fire Retardant Intumescent Paint, do a search and u will see many products. With the bare wood inside any radiant heat given off from the generator it could start a fire inside the shed. The intumescent paint can provide a 2 hour fire barrier, goes on like latex paint. I think they make an exterior version, given the wildfire hazard you have, you may want to consider using it on the exterior too. I have scene this stuff work, really amazing stuff!
 
   / Solar Power Shed Project #170  
Rob, A project I did for a Government contract (Army National Training Center where the Army practiced for Desert Storm etc.) involved a few Onan 12.5 KW AIR COOLED DIESEL GENERATORS. One of the objections I raised about an installation that was to supply power to coaxial amplifiers to boost and reboost base band video on a long overhead run (mountain top to desert floor) was that the design of the installation was NOT GOOD.

I pointed out that the generator got its cooling air flow from inside the bld (about 20x25 metal bld) and the effluent airflow (heated air) was dumped inside the building. There was a couple low mounted good sized rectangular louver vents for fresh air. Here is the problem: when commercial power went down and the generator fired up to maintain the battery voltage on a huge bank of NiCd cells, the hot air off the engine mixed with the room air and this mixture was drawn back through the engine to cool it. A 20 min run was no big deal even with the desert temp was 100+ but over time the room temp went up to unsatisfactory levels for the installed equipment and in a prolonged run of several hours the engines cooling capabilitiy was compromised (electronic equipment and battery chargers with solid state electronic circuitry were abused.) If any air moved through the louvered vents, they removed a little of the moixture not pure hot air from the engine so they were very inneffective.

I suggested an economical fix but since the SUITS didn't understand they had me make test runs with some thermometers to prove my point which I easily did.

Onan makes sheet metal shrouds for their aircooled generators so that you can send all the "used" heated air from the engine into a duct and send it out of the bld. Then the cooling system on the engine will suck a small partial vacuum on the bld which will draw in fresh outside air. By exhausting "PURE" hot air instead of the mixture the air temp waas lowered significantly in the bld which gave the batteries, chargers, etc a break and a chance for a long useful life.

With a water cooled engine the same thing happens if you don't make a provision to exhaust the heated air from the bld. Passive vents help but are usually not enough. You need to direct the hot air coming off the engine out of the bld so as to exhaust the "pure hot" air and not mixture.

This is an exponential dilution problem that can be modeled by a table spoon of milk in the bottom of a glass. Run water at a moderate rate into the glass and note how long it takes to get rid of the milky color. It takes many many table spoons of water down the drain to get the water in the glass to look really clear. You are removing mixture, not milk and it is not an efficient way to get rid of the milk. Dumping the "pure milk" does it much quicker.

One of the Onan installations was in an aluminum "BOX" called a Helicopt Hut. It fit in the bed of a deuce and a half and had lifting eyes so you could transport it by chopper. There is aboiut 6 ft headroom (I had to stoop.) I subdivided one of these boxes into two equal rooms with a connecting door. On one side I put an Onan 12.5 Kw air cooled diesel generator sitting on a custom anti vibration mount, surrounded by lead loaded acoustic foam and some storage bins and a work bench. In the other half of the box I put several racks of electronic equipment and a computer. Two operators occupied the room. (close quarters) The generator had to run when the unit was in use as it was THE source of power in the field. I put extra insulation on the roof and a Coleman A/C unit for the operators. This was used in the deseert between Death Valley and Barstow CA (Ft. Irwin, NTC)

Rob, Have you any reason to suspect the thermal design of the generator installation is better than the advance site work that insured the trees were not in the way of the panels on the trackers?

Pat
 

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