Solder in a stripped zerk???

[Gary Fowler]

Zerks come in different thread sizes. Most folks would simply retap the hole one size up and put a new zerk in.

That is what I have done on stripped threads in my bush hog tail wheel. I wouldn't go heating up a backhoe pin to weld in a replaceable zerk. Are you sure the pin threads are stripped and not just the zerk. Most times the zerk is the softer of the two. You may just need to retap the hole but it is pretty easy to just tap it to the next size zerk fitting.

 

[Egon]

Give the solder a try. Pull the pin, clean all the grease off the threads and zerk, put some flux on the thread and apply gentle heat plus solder to the pin area around the zerk. Should get hot enough to draw in some solder. If it doesn't work no loss.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Get a knock in type. They usually are slightly larger than threaded, and they fit where a stripped one won't. They have "barbed" like parts that hold it in.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would clean the hole out good with brake clean, smear some JB Weld on a new clean zerk, and let it cure a couple of days.

If that failed I would order a reamer and tap for the next size threads and install a bushing.

 

[2ndhalf]

I would clean the hole out good with brake clean, smear some JB Weld on a new clean zerk, and let it cure a couple of days.

If that failed I would order a reamer and tap for the next size threads and install a bushing.

Funny, was thinking of the same thing. I have heard JB Weld will set so hard it can be drilled and tapped; haven't tried it but i have used in on a lot of things and it is amazing.

 

[the old grind]

If you start with a nut whose thread matches your zerk, you should get by with just welding the nut and putting in the new fitting. Lacking a nut that matches your zerk's thread, look for a coupling in 1/16" NPT pipe size (~1/4" thread dia), cut/weld half on and add zerk.

Not all 'simple' remedies are that simple. What Mark said ...some zerks look threaded but aren't, and are just pressed in (eg: ZTR front spindles) vs threaded. Some are collinear with pins, even recessed and tough to replace. Some can't be re-tapped for w/o removing a pin (OP's for one ? ..)

Brazing used to be called 'hard-soldering'. 'Old' MAPP was barely hot enough, 'new' isn't (post 2008?) I use acetylene or carbon arc torch (40 amp, runs on 110v) to braze, but would rather weld this for then not having to heat up as much metal mass around the work. t o g.

 

[Big Barn]

Get a knock in type. They usually are slightly larger than threaded, and they fit where a stripped one won't. They have "barbed" like parts that hold it in.

I have a proper installation tool (somewhere . ) but you can use a hammer and small socket to drive it in.

 

[mikester]

I would clean the hole out good with brake clean, smear some JB Weld on a new clean zerk, and let it cure a couple of days.

If that failed I would order a reamer and tap for the next size threads and install a bushing.

You will never get the gunk out clean enough to get a good solder unless you pull everything apart. At that point it’s just easier to drill and re-tap to the next size up zerk.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I have a proper installation tool (somewhere . ) but you can use a hammer and small socket to drive it in.

View attachment 542604

This.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Get a knock in type. They usually are slightly larger than threaded, and they fit where a stripped one won't. They have "barbed" like parts that hold it in.

Mark, you stole my thunder. That is what I have done in the past.

Ron