Some questions about a 1997 F350 4x4 SRW Powerstroke

[Soundguy]

As far as the CPS, I'll definitely pick one of those up to have as a spare. I won't drive a truck much farther than around the block without some basic hand tools so keeping a 10mm wrench in the truck won't be a problem. Any other gremlins to worry about? I know that this generation of F350 isn't built as stout as the current generation, but everything still looks to be pretty well built and I'm guessing it should handle a 13,000 pound GVWR trailer about as well as my current 2500HD. I'm glad to hear you chime in as well Soundguy, as I know you're a big fan of the 7.3 Powerstroke.

while my 7.3's are DRW and crew cab, it's still a similar truck. I haul a 14k GN frequently with either truck with no real issues. of course the 450 totes it 'nicer' with the air bag's, etc.. but that's a ride issue.. not a power issue.

good luck on the machine. I plan on trying to keep my 7.3's alive and on the road till not feasable. havn't seen another ford diesel I'd want to invest in (yet).. though the dodge /5.9 c/d would be my 'go to' choice if I was forced to get another fuel-oil burner soon.

soundguy

 

[newbury]

Well I just found out today my chosen cheap ladder rack

won't fit a superduty

Not high enough.

I'll probably get one anyways and duct tape an extender on it
Seems cheaper than getting another truck.

Lowes sells them for $299,

 

[Lt CHEG]

Well, she's home. It was too dark to take pictures so they'll have to wait. But as for details, I bought this 1997 F350 SRW 4x4 diesel with an 8 foot Western minute mount plow for $3300. I'm quite happy at that price as it is a good enough looking truck that I don't mind putting some money into it if it needs it down the road. Plus at only 135,000 miles she's just broken in. It actually rides pretty nice too. I'm planning on washing the exterior tomorrow and replacing the parking brake cable after I help my buddy tune up his girlfriend's car. Then I'll probably wash the interior well on Sunday. I'm thinking that next weekend I'll do the ball joints and may try to throw a coat of wax on it too. Probably within a week or two after that I'll change all the fluids and filter. I'll keep on saving my fun money so that I can purchase a new hitch as this one is quite rusty, and I'll probably look at getting a Maxbrake controller for it at some point as the factory brake controllers have me not wanting to go back to the old intertia style. I also will try to find a class V 2.5" hitch as I like the Class V 2.5" hitch on my Silverado HD. I'll keep everyone updated as things progress, but for right now I'm darn pleased with my purchase. I feel very confident that if the worst ever came to pass that I could make my money back from just the box and the engine.

 

[Soundguy]

wow.. 3300$.. she could have 4000$ of problems and still be a good deal..

 

[tlbuser]

If you're dumping all fluids, it might be sensible to pull the radiator to get it cleaned and tested.

 

[Diamondpilot]

What a deal.

Chris

 

[JJZ 109]

If you're dumping all fluids, it might be sensible to pull the radiator to get it cleaned and tested.

When I did my recent cooling system flush, Here are the instructions that I printed up and took out to the garage with me.
Good step by step and I had no issues with my very first 7.3 PSD coolant system flush.

 

[burnetma]

I am a week+ late, nut here are my 2¢…

Join The Diesel Stop forum.

Fuel tanks WILL eventually rust out under the straps & leak.

Keep an extra set of fuses, especially the Maxi fuse for the fuel filter heater element. I cannot remember the fuse number or size off the top of my head. When it pops, the truck shuts off and will not restart.

Rear differential cover will eventually rust out, so keep an eye on that for leaks.

I had over 292,000 miles on my 1997 F250 before I sold her to a tree surgeon who still works her everyday.

Happy trucking!

 

[Bigfoot62]

I'd take a look at the cooling system as well. . . I flushed the system and used the proper coolant, pre charged with SCA from Tractor Supply. NAPA also carries an SCA supplement to add to coolant if it isn't at the right level. You'll need test strips to determine that.
The thermostat housings are known to be flimsy and a common leak point. Those can be had from NAPA. . .

SCA is very important on diesel engines. I've simply started using the FleetCharge precharged coolant. Got this tip from my cousin, who owns a large heavy equipment/construction business.

Ditto on the thermostat housing. You can change it with the water pump. (also available from NAPA)

. . . No one has mentioned the dual mass flywheel. If it goes you are looking at some serious money to replace it. Go with a aftermarket single mass flywheel. . .

Yep, but don't worry about it until you need to change it. Then, install a LuK clutch, pressure plate and flywheel kit, and you're done.

 

[JJZ 109]

SCA is very important on diesel engines. I've simply started using the FleetCharge precharged coolant.

Fleet Charge is the brand that I picked up from Tractor Supply. Although I haven't used the test strips yet, I did pick up a bottle of NAPA Kool in case I need to up the SCA.

The knucklehead that I bought the truck from had it full of orange (I believe DexCool) coolant so I flushed and refilled with Fleet Charge.
As far as the thermostat housing, if it's factory stock, it's going to leak at some point if it isn't already seeping. If you're going to the trouble of flushing/and or changing fluids, might as well go with a new thermostat (NAPA #THM 373195) and the housing/O ring (NAPA part #605-1716).
The thermostat should be the long stem model. I used a 203º model from Dieselsite.com but stock models (195º) can be had from Ford or International dealers as well as the NAPA number shown above.
As noted in another post, The Diesel Stop is a great resource site for these motors.