sorry I need advice on leanto build!

[BungeeII]

What do you think about engineered lumber? would that solve my problem? Or another thought was coming out from the barn at a 2;12 pitch for about 8 ft the jump to a 3/12 pitch? what do you think?

I have to ask again, why not simply extend the barn another 18'? Are there footprint restrictions you're avoiding? Is it an aesthetics issue?

 

[rambler]

What is it you are looking for:

Inexpensive.

Low maitenence.

Good looking.

A closed in area, all 4 sides, or an open lean to, only a roof, or 2 walls but open on one side.

Do you want door(s) inthe narrow ends of the leanto, or along the 32 foot wall of the leanto?

Are you most concerned with cubic feet to store hay (taller would allow it to be smaller) or do you need square foot floor space (to park machinery).

What is the wall of your current barn, metal, wood, concrete, pole.

You are getting a wide range of ideas, perhaps narrowing down what you need and have will help get a general direction that works best.

Myself, I dislike flat roofs, I dislike the membrane coating, I really really like steel metal roofs like you do. I have a very healthy snow load 'here' so I tend to like a good roof pitch. I just couldn't imagine those flat things others picture, we get snow starting in November sometimes October, & none of it melts until March or more likely April. I like laminated posts, not a 4x6 or 6x6 as wood these days is poor and crooked, a laminated one of several 2x6s is much stronger & you can treat only the parts that are in the ground, not the whole thing.

Where do you want to go?

--->Paul

 

[Pops15]

What do you think about engineered lumber? would that solve my problem? Or another thought was coming out from the barn at a 2;12 pitch for about 8 ft the jump to a 3/12 pitch? what do you think?

Not sure what problem you're talking about but engineered lumber is great. In your original post you said you wanted a lean to for additional hay storage. Here's what I would do....
I would go narrower than the existing building. That would allow me to go higher and have more pitch. I'd use I joists with a glu-lam beam to split the span, and use 2 or 3 LVL's for the headers. I'd go with one laminated center post to support the headers. That would give better access than having shorter headers and more posts.
Take some measurements and make a sketch of what you want to build and the existing building and go to the lumber yard. They'll call the company that makes the engineered lumber. They'll tell you what will work and what won't.

 

[deepNdirt]

and BTW what Kind of pricing did you come up with on the Hip roof fabricating idea? could this have been really that much more costly compared to all the other idea's and special considerations of lumber ect,etc,
If It were me and in need of more roof pitch and absolutely had to have this size & dimension ,hight and square ft. etc, I could see nothing else but a hip roof as my only option at minimal cost, that is if i am trying to achieve a higher pitch roof, I would simply have build up or build them myself 9 shed style roof truss with a what ever the pitch would require to fall under the existing barn roof, attach them to the wall and on out to the beam, and add a king rafter diagonally and stick build the rest of the roof from off these king rafters,..... But that just me! BTW.. I have built many-a-pole barns, garages as well as houses,
but of course if your not really concerned with the roof being more flat then go for it as a full shed roof all the way across, water will shed from a 2/12 and if weight of snow is a concern then foot thew cost of a LVL to install in the middle of 18 foot out, which would roughly put it around 9 ft you would have to be sure the post that this beam is resting on has a good thick cement footer because quit a lot of weight will be transfered to these post...... as a matter of fact i would probably use large diameter tel-phone post or consider 8x8 Galvzed steel post,

 

[rambler]

deepNdirt, that would be my 1st choices as well. Typically you can oder those trusses made as cheaply as you can make them yourself. Here in Minnesota I just wouldn't consider a flat roof at all, but I understand other areas have different conditions.

-->Paul

 

[hitekcountry]

I have to ask again, why not simply extend the barn another 18'? Are there footprint restrictions you're avoiding? Is it an aesthetics issue?

That would be my suggestion.

If you were only going 10' then a shed roof would be fine, but for 18' I would just lengthen the barn, but I would go in 4' increments so I would go 20'.

 

[gno242]

What's your budget ? I have some suggestions. My brother spent months thinking this threw. It was a fun project.

 

[BryanM]

what ideas did you come up with? I was thinking around $1800 for posts rafters, and steel for roof.

I dont want to add on due to the fact that hopefully in within the next 5 years another barn will come along, so I dont want to spend money budgeted for a new barn!

This project was planned for a cheapier version(solution) for cheap storage!

 

[dcyrilc]

what ideas did you come up with? I was thinking around $1800 for posts rafters, and steel for roof.

I dont want to add on due to the fact that hopefully in within the next 5 years another barn will come along, so I dont want to spend money budgeted for a new barn!

This project was planned for a cheapier version(solution) for cheap storage!

My experiance here in the Northwest, is that it's hard to get cheaper than trusses. For our barn remodel, we put trusses 12 feet apart with 2x6 perlins between the trusses at 2ft OC and steel roofing (18 trusses cost us just under $1K). As I see it, the 2x6s, roofing, and posts are basically a fixed cost - so it comes down to which is cheaper, trusses or custom beams? For up to 24 feet you would be looking at 4 trusses. Check the cost of trusses vs what you would need for beams and then you will know which is cheaper. If the cost is close, decide which would look better in the long run. If not, go with the lesser expense.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[JB4310]

For our barn remodel, we put trusses 12 feet apart with 2x6 perlins between the trusses at 2ft OC and steel roofing

I'm not a builder so I don't know all the spans and load requirements, but most of the truss roofed out buildings I see have the trusses like 4-6 feet apart. 12 foot spacing, must require a HD truss, not like the flimsy ones I see that look like they are built out of all the 2"x X" seconds from Home Depot.
Maybe a typo?

jb