Southern IN All concrete home
- Thread starter Paddy
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bucmeister
Silver Member
Thanks for the explaination. That looks to be an option I would like to explore for the master suite addition we are wanting to get into. Quiet, insulated, sturdy, all of which we would enjoy.
Paddy, How would you rate the job of doing it yourself? Ours will be all above grade.
Paddy, How would you rate the job of doing it yourself? Ours will be all above grade.
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 3,106
- Location
- SW Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
Paddy,
Will you backfill with dirt from the site or do you need to use sand or something that won't damage the foam when you throw it in there?
John
Will you backfill with dirt from the site or do you need to use sand or something that won't damage the foam when you throw it in there?
John
Egon
Epic Contributor
This type of concrete work is best left to the experienced. Any mistakes are excalibrated and can get ugly.
Like any type of construction, know your own skill level. I have built my own home in the past but this time I'm having the shell built for me to finish.
It's not a complex process but a few mistakes and you have lost all the money you hoped to save. many ICF blocks will offer to have an experinced person inspect your ICF forming before you pour. You could also go visit a job in process. Again, most block companies will let you know where a local project is.
Patrick T.
It's not a complex process but a few mistakes and you have lost all the money you hoped to save. many ICF blocks will offer to have an experinced person inspect your ICF forming before you pour. You could also go visit a job in process. Again, most block companies will let you know where a local project is.
Patrick T.
JMC,
The foam below grade will be coated with a fiber mesh inbeded in an eslatomeric base. This is really just a secondary water prevetion. The key to a dry basement is an unobstructive path for the water to fall straight down to the footing drain. I will back fill mostly with a clean drainage gravel. Since the basement hole is mostly in sand stone, I will have very little dirt pushing or infiltering ?sp to the gravel.
Hydrostatic presure is the issue.
The foam below grade will be coated with a fiber mesh inbeded in an eslatomeric base. This is really just a secondary water prevetion. The key to a dry basement is an unobstructive path for the water to fall straight down to the footing drain. I will back fill mostly with a clean drainage gravel. Since the basement hole is mostly in sand stone, I will have very little dirt pushing or infiltering ?sp to the gravel.
Hydrostatic presure is the issue.
I needed to have a Rebar bender for this project and just made one. Funny, I used an old Ford FEL section. Good solid hing point. Soundguy would likely recognize it! First I made a mandrel with the correct raduis. Also, I made a grove so the Rebar would tract nicely. Then, using the old Ford FEL part I welded the set of leverage points, the triangles, on to the lever arms.
Works good with 1/2" rebar. I would have tried 5/8" but Lowes did not have it
Patrick T.
Works good with 1/2" rebar. I would have tried 5/8" but Lowes did not have it
Patrick T.
Attachments
The previous post was of protective layer below ground. Here is a shot of the covering that was used below the siding to protect the ICF in that earth/siding transition zone. It was a fiberglass looking product, it had a hard glossy/pebble finish to the exposed side. It came in a roll, I think 18" wide 50ft.
