Last picture of the shop addition roof. Besides the three pieces to finish off the one valley I only need to put about 20 pieces of plywood on this half of the main roof and then I will be ready to shingle. Those 20 or so pieces will be easy to put up. This shop addition roof is the last challenging piece of the puzzle (besides shingling the valleys).
Looking up with the plywood on the shop addition now it sure does look huge. That section of the barn will have almost 13' walls, the main barn will have 12' walls. All four of the overhead doors will be 10' high. I had my little Dodge Dakota parked under the shop addition roof last night and it sure did look tiny. I either built this barn too big or I need a bigger truck.
Spence
Edit here:
You can see the difference in the color of the wood on the left. I had treated that earlier with the Thompson's water seal. I took this photo right before I treated the wood on the right side. It only cost me 33 bucks for 5 gallons of the stuff and I figure that is cheap insurance. Back in April when I bought the 1/2" plywood for the other half of the roof it cost me $8.65 a sheet from Menards. This weekend I paid $12.52 a sheet from Lowe's. I don't remember the brand name of the stuff from Mendards but I sure do like the Georgia Pacific plywood I got from Lowe's. It seems a lot more rigid and had less knots in it.
Case-IH Farmall 45A, Kubota M8540 Narrow, New Holland TN 65, Bobcat 331, Ford 1920, 1952 John Deere M, Allis Chalmers B, Bombardier Traxter XT, Massey Harris 81RC and a John Deere 3300 combine, Cub Cadet GT1554
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project
Shingling the valleys is easy so don't worry about it. We found the easiest way is to run one side up the valley all the way to the peak (in this case you will want to run the additions shingles first since it is lower). Just let the additions shingles lap up onto the other roof at least 12-18" so that you have good coverage. Once that is done you snap a line on the main roof up the valley about 2-3" from the center and when you shingle that roof you cut the shingles along the line. Mark the top and bottom of the shingle and cut it before you nail it so you don't slice the valley open (but you already knew that). When it is done it looks better then a two-cut and is much easier then a weave (even though a weave is actually quite easy but you need to run both sides of the valley at the same time which is easiest if you have help). Keep up the great work and don't worry about that valley. It is extremly easy to do. If you have any questions just read the shingle wrapper as they do a good job of explaining it for the average guy to understand. Or just post your question on here and I and a lot of others will do our best to answer it for you. Take care.
Robert, thanks for the advice on the shingles. I had a contractor give me his opinion on it a couple of weeks ago. He said to get some "Ice Shield" and also to run a piece of metal flashing that had an inverted "V" in the middle of it. He said to run my felt paper right up on the other roof (both ways). Then I think he said to put down the "Ice Shield". Then put the metal flashing with the inverted "V". Then when I put my shingles on cut them so they are about 2" away from the inverted "V".
I'm open for opinions and suggestions on shingling these valleys. We do get quite a bit of ice and snow on roofs here in Michigan so I want to do it right.
I've always used the metal flashing in the valleys, but I'm no roofer, so others may have better advice. I like the looks of the metal myself /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I had my little Dodge Dakota parked under the shop addition roof last night and it sure did look tiny. I either built this barn too big or I need a bigger truck.
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I just went out and took a picture with my little Dakota parked in the 16' by 16' shop addition. I know I didn't build the barn too big so I guess I need a bigger truck. Too bad I can't afford one right now.
Here is the front view that you can compare to the plan front view I posted earlier. The whole left side of the barn including the lean-to have been shingled since April.
Case-IH Farmall 45A, Kubota M8540 Narrow, New Holland TN 65, Bobcat 331, Ford 1920, 1952 John Deere M, Allis Chalmers B, Bombardier Traxter XT, Massey Harris 81RC and a John Deere 3300 combine, Cub Cadet GT1554
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project
I have never been a fan of open valleys. The water and ice shield should be done and I should have mentioned that but I was only talking about shingles at the time. However, you can do the open valley with the metal but it is more work. Run the ice guard down the valley and do the one cut valley. It is much faster and looks a lot better as you don't have to mess with the metal in the valley or cutting two sides of shingles. But that is just my view on the matter but I have not heard any view that would sway me to using metal valleys.
I don't know if I ever showed you guys my tractor parked in the lean-to or not. At least my tractor has had a nice place to park for some time now. This lean-to also served as my temporary shop from January until about a month ago. I have my personnel lift on the tractor for lifting the plywood up onto the roof.