Spencer's Pole Barn Project

   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#101  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I had a buddy over Thursday to help me set some more trusses. It was cold and snowing but we were working hard enough that we stayed warm. We ended up getting 9 more trusses set for a total of 12. The first three that I did by myself took 6 hours total. We set these nine trusses in 6 hours and that included going downtown for a sub sandwich.
 

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   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#102  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I didn't take any photo's while we were working because I didn't want to slow the job down. Here is a side view of the project. You can see the 12' by 24' lean-to that will be my tractors future home. I am going to marry some 2" by 8"s to the trusses and use those as rafters for the lean-to. I'm sure some of you will notice that the trusses are not cross braced in the photo's. Don't worry, I stayed out there after my buddy left and braced everything up nicely. It was just too dark to take any photo's of the bracing.
 

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   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#103  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Here is the last picture I took yesterday. It is a view from the rear of the building. I had to run to the lumber yard for some hardware last night so I thought I would price out plywood versus the osb. At Menards 1/2" osb is 5.98, 1/2 plywood is 8.69 and 1/2" treated plywood is 15.98. Calculating my square footage I will need about 100 sheets. I'm sure that I will end up needing at least 110 or more in reality. I priced the treated plywood thinking that although it costs more I could put that up and not have to worry about covering it up with anything until I was good and ready to put the shingles on in warmer weather. At 700 more that the regular plywood and 1000 more than the osb I don't know if it would be worth it. I am buying 98% of my materials from a local lumberyard (Wickes Lumber). I just run to Menard's when I need an extra board at night or on the weekend. I will call Wickes today and see what there prices are for plywood.
 

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   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project #104  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I would, if in the situation you are in (winter, frozen, snow, want weather-proof but not water-proof), go with the plywood and pre-treat it with a water-repellant preservative such as is used on wood decks (Thompsons wood protector, for example). Then I would trust this surface-treated plywood to shed most of the water that would come from melting snow and spring rains without much damage caused to the wood during the rest of this winter. If OSB was used, this treatment would help it also but the lack of stiffness and possible swelling along the edges when it gets wet would cause me to stay away from OSB too. If me, and the trusses were on 24" centers, I would be looking at 5/8" thickness instead of 1/2" too (which I think now is actually a little thinner that 1/2"). The 5/8 will give you more stiffness between the trusses.
The pre-treatment can be rolled on or sprayed on, but probably you would want to do it inside with at least above- freezing temps. You could also mix your own by mixing melted paraffin in mineral spirits, but at about $45/5 gal. its not too pricey to buy it.
 
   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project #105  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer - I'd say you're making great progress considering the weather and the limited daytime hours you have to work on it! I'm no expert, but I'd definitely consider plywood even though it costs more. Are your trusses 2' on center? My garage has plywood and no sags between the rafters, but my house has OSB and it sags between each rafter. Both have trusses 2' on center. Maybe it would be worth the money to hire out the shingling since a good experienced crew could finish it up much quicker. I know from what little shingling I've done that it's very laborious and I wouldn't mind paying someone else to do it! But, you're obviously much more energetic and talented than I am. I'll be watching your progress closely, since I still want to build mine either next year or the year after. It won't be near as large, but I can learn from your techniques. I'm already thinking about getting a FEL (again, I've thought about it many times), since seeing what you can do with yours via your Switch-Hitch makes a FEL much more attractive and the cost of one much more justifiable.
 
   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#106  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Mosey, Yes the trusses are on 2 foot centers. I am leaning towards the plywood as of right now. I still have a few weeks before I have to make up my mind. On your house did they use those "H" clips on the osb between the trusses? I think the only way I would end up using osb now is if I knew I was going to hire out the shingle work so that it would get done right away.
 
   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project #107  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer - Yes, they did use the "H" clips on the 1/2" OSB in the house, but they did not use them on the 1/2" plywood in the garage.
 
   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project #108  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer,Don't even think about any type OSB for the roof.With 24" spacing,you need a good grade 5/8" 4-5 ply,plywood.

Anything less will sag in time and you'll be very unhappy,even if you use the H-clips.It cost less in the longrun to set trusses on 16" ctrs. and use a 1/2" 4-ply plywood sheathing.
 
   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project #109  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I live in a barn built 20 years ago with 2 ' rafters but covered with 3/4" OSB/clips. Re shingled 2 years ago, no problems.bcs
 
   / Spencer's Pole Barn Project #110  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I used 5/8 osb on my 2000sqft house addition
and attached 26x28 garage.
2' spacing on rafters and it is solid.
I came close to using 3/4 osb subfloor
because of T & G which would be REAL solid.
But I always go over kill anyway, like 1/2" osb
on inside walls under 5/8" drywall that way
the wife's junk (oops) can hang where ever.
 

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