Splitting a Ford 3000

[Shepp]

Im currently in the process of splitting a Ford 3000 and cant figure out how to detach the rear drag links. Any ideas?

 

[Soundguy]

detach the ? steering draglinks?

well.. it's a standard tie rod style pin / socket connection.

however.. i usually unbolt the steering box and float it .. but you can disconnect them if you want.

a pickle fork will liekly do it.. otherwise a pittman arm puller .. like a 2 jaw.. the wide narrow jaw style has always worked with me.

lastly.. you can take a large hammer and use it as a backup, and a smaller hammer as the striker.. you put the backup on one side of the socket and then strike the socket on the other side to plastically deform the socket and pop the pin loose.

that's my LEAST favorite method.

if a couple whacks of a pickle fork don't get it.. then the 2 jaw pittman arm/tie rod seperator always works..

ps.. remember to wedge the front axle pivot to keep the engine from laying over when you split her.

 

[Shepp]

Thanks Soundguy. This Forum is great. I was in the middle of the bush in ONtario and I had my son go online by tethering my blackberry to his mac so I could ask the question. I undid the bolts that hold the steering box down. It appears that I will have to raise it up quite a bit to clear the hydraulic lines that go to the hydraulic manifold. If this doesn't work I will try undoing the steering arms that connect to the draglinks. Back in Toronto now. Have an appointment tomorrow then I will head back up their Friday.
With a handle like "Soundguy" you must be in the same business as me. I am a stage hand, but specialize in sound and video. More video then sound.
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

I'm more sound than video..

 

[Shepp]

Well I finally took advantage of the nice weather and some time off work to get this thing split. I left the loader on which actually came in handy to support the steering box since I couldn't get the draglinks disconnected from the steering arms. The hardest part was getting the starter motor off. There was one bolt between it and the engine which was a totally awkward spot. I managed to get a socket on it and give it a turn to loosen it enough so I could turn it with my fingers. This took quite a while. The ATV winch came in handy to pull the transmission away from the engine. The wife operated the winch while I watched out for any snags with the steering box and hydraulic manifold. The clutch was totally shot. The pressure plate had disintegrated and the rivets that held the old pads on it had scored deep gouges in the friction plate. The fly wheel looks like it is still in good shape though and no teeth are worn or missing. I am going to order a new clutch package along with a throw out bearing and a pilot bearing. Now comes the hard part. Putting it back together.

 

[llt]

I have an old Mistubishi MM 40 sr min trackhoe. I have lost controls from my joysticks, the computer is locking locking them out. I am at a point where I would like to bypass the cpu and work the hyd coils directly from the sticks. anyone tryed this befor?

 

[Badbrad59]

I like the loader you have! I own a 1966 3000 with the 8 speed dual clutch. I'm going to have to do the same thing with mine! The clutch is just about gone! I really like the pics you added! Thanks!
Brad

 

[ArcticFord]

I have splittes some Ford but never the way you show on the pictures. I`v only took out the 3/4, 5/8, 7/16 bolts connecting engine to transmission. Also fuellines and electical. Steering gear assy. and dieseltank was never moved away. Rod assys was demounted at rear cap.

 

[Shepp]

Problem was I couldnt get the darn rod assys apart. I suppose if I had more patients and got a tool to remove the ball joints I might have been able to remove them. Someone suggested removing the steering gear assembly instead. It was a little more work but, I finished the job. In fact the removal of the steering gear assembly allowed me to get a drift pin behind the throwout bearing so I could pound it off. It proved to be just as stubborn as the steering rods. Now that I have a clutch alignment tool I am just waiting for some time off work so I can put her back together before winter.
Shepp

 

[Shepp]

Thanks Badbrad. Now that I have a clutch alignment tool I can put her back together. I just finished making a pair of 5/8" rods to help align the bell housing. Just need a free weekend from work so I can get her done before winter. I will post pics.
Shepp

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. sometimes taking entire steering box off helps the most.

 

[Shepp]

Yes taking the steering box off was worth the effort. Just wondering though. I didn't see any gasket under the steering box, should there be one? Maybe when I put it back on I will use a bead of silicon to keep any water out. I am heading out of the city tomorrow night and I hope to get her back together this weekend. Now that I have the new I phone 5 I should be able to ask any questions from the middle of the bush. LOL
Shepp

 

[Soundguy]

rtv probably work ok.. I might use NH permatex.. but whatever...

 

[Shepp]

Thanks Soundguy.
Shepp

 

[Soundguy]

god luck / be carefull going back together.. don't force anything.. and don't be twmpted to dray the halves together with bolts if something is sticking... will eat the clutch...

 

[Shepp]

god luck / be carefull going back together.. don't force anything.. and don't be twmpted to dray the halves together with bolts if something is sticking... will eat the clutch...

Just wondering. Does the pilot bearing and the release bearing require any grease?