Splitting a tractor

[futch]

Heya

I have a general question about splitting a tractor.

My B7100 HST-E transmission is squealling . I'm on a budget and need to decide if I can do the diagnosis/repair or if I should seek a professional/dealer to do it.

I have a fair bit DIY experience, and the idea of splitting my tractor doesnt bother me. What concerns me tho, is finding out I need specialty tools mid-way which would drive up the expense.

Does anyone have experience splitting their own Kubota in half? Is it a straightforward process of unbolting until you get to the middle, then going in reverse for re-assembly? Are any specialty tools required? Does a hydro static transmission present re-assembly difficulties (alignment/calibration etc) ?


Many thanks
F

 

[FTCKUBOTA]

I would look at other options before splitting it. I would change oil and filters and make sure some screens are not stopped up. I would be sure to use kubota filters and oil. As far as splitting the tractor if it comes to that I would let a pro tackle it.

 

[Carl_NH]

If the problem still exists after fluids and filters, get a service manual, take a look at the job and then consult your local dealer mechanic on the symptoms and they may shed some light on the potential problem.

Once you have this info if you still want/need to split your tractor then you should prepare by removing all the sheet metal, tanks, wiring and hoses - also its recommended to mark each of the mating wires/hoses with some tags and numbering scheme like 1W=1W for wire or 1H for hose and so on because when you are putting it back together in two-three weeks this eliminates "memory issues"

After you have it stripped down to the basic elements evaluate the mounting holes that could be used for bolt on supports and build some supports and bolt these on to support he two halves - ideally both (or at least one) of these would be on rollers to move this section around. Once these are in place then start loosening the bolts at the clutch/motor split point. It may be different for each model but generally units split at the clutch.

Once you have the bolts loosened and a 1/4-1/2 gap between the two make sure your supports are working and one end isn't going to tip to the sky once disconnected..

I used to split IH farm tractors - its not rocket science but you need to have the right setup to start or you will face issues trying to realign the parts on the reassembly so planning and preparation are key.. Read the service manual too!

Good Luck

 

[futch]

Carl - thank you so much for the indepth reply and insight. tomorrow night i'll sump the transmission, replace filter and clean the screens. fingers crossed but the way the trans went out, i think it's a shot in the dark ;-)

thanks again
f

 

[Tig]

Lots of good advice from Carl. Think safety! I split my B7100 and reassembled without any unique tools. Clutch alignment can be done without "the" alignment tool. An engine crane would have been handy to roll the two halves apart safely. I found that the I&T manual answered all my questions.

 

[LC7100]

I split my B7100 HST this spring. I thought I needed to replace the throwout bearing, but my problem turned out to be the pilot bearing. The tractor had to be split to replace either one, so I didn't waste any effort. It was really pretty easy. I put a jack under the back half and an overhead chain hooked to the engine lift eyes on the front. Then just unhook the hydraulic line to the pump on the right side, the return line underneath the tractor on the left, disconnect the throttle, decompression cable, fuel line, electrical wires to the dynamo, lights and the starter and then unbolt the bell housing from the engine. There may be a few more small items I don't recall. I did not take the fuel tank off or remove the hood. Mine is a 4WD, so I had to disconnect the front drive shaft.

My concern, however, is that this does not get you into the transmission. You would probably have much more work to get to that. I would want a pretty good idea of what I was looking for before I tore into it too much.

I spent a week on mine, but most of the time was waiting and running back and forth to the dealer for parts. For my throwout bearing and pilot bearing, if I had the parts on hand it could easily be done in less than a day.

My problem was a 'rumbling' sound when I pushed on the clutch. It worked fine otherwise. Your problem sounds different.

Good luck!

 

[alchemysa]

Heya
My B7100 HST-E transmission is squealling .

Is there any problem other than a squeal? HST squeal is common.
Mine squealed, but more importantly, it had very weak drive power. Cleaning the metal mesh screens solved that. It still screams a bit but it would take a major, expensive, and probably unnecessary, HST tranny rebuild to fix that.

 

[Egon]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/146329-b7100-hst-e-squeal-transmission.html

This is the thread that describes the original problem.

 

[futch]

Thanks for the link Egon

Well it looks like a split is unavoidable.. Today I replaced the transmission oil/filter. No improvement.

To summarise my other post; drive gear in neutral, dropped the PTO in, heard a pop then a squeal coming from the transmission. Squeal is not there with the clutch pressed. Noise is coming specifically from the housing between the propellor shaft coupling and the dip stick. That is, right under the oil filter (hydro pump?) Sounds like dry metal rubbing.

My question is; can the split be done at the transmission instead of the clutch bell housing? There seems to be a 'split' point there as well and thats where my problem is. I'm hoping I can disconnect the propellor shaft, other rods and split at the transmission.

Tig - good to know. I walked into the Kubota dealer today and a large tractor was split in 2. Front end on jackstands, rear end on a hydraulic floor jack. This will probably be my course of action.

LC7100 - GREAT info. The noise is easy to pinpoint. I think it's shaft#2 which connects to the propellor shaft. I've eyballed all the bits I need to disconnect. Thanks to the inventor of cotter-pins

alchemysa - just the squeal. Starts as soon as i release the clutch pedal. It's loud and one of those noises you know can't be good. Does a total rebuild require all parts changed or just the bad ones replaced and the rest cleaned up? I ask because Kubota come across a little fussy in their literature with 'precision' made components. I used to have a 40+ year old David Brown in Australia and it was just a matter of changing what you needed.

Thanks again to everyone and their replies. Some of the big names chiming in and I appreciate that ! I've got the book on order but that will take a week. It's the rainy season in Florida and I need to get my girl up and running before the grass grows above me!


F

 

[alchemysa]

alchemysa - just the squeal. Starts as soon as i release the clutch pedal. It's loud and one of those noises you know can't be good. Does a total rebuild require all parts changed or just the bad ones replaced and the rest cleaned up?

Fortunately it doesnt really sound like a HST problem then. HST's usually dont squeal til you press the pedal. (In my limited experience). As for the cost of a total HST rebuild, I wouldnt know. I never got that far. But exchange/rebuilt units seemed to be reasonably commonly available as I recall. So I guess that means parts are available as needed.

 

[futch]

with a floor jack, 2 stands, metric socket set (12,17,19,26mm) and a screw driver, i split the tractor at the transmission shroud instead of the clutch housing.

the threads on the transmission shaft had been stripped by the propellor shaft coupling. by the looks of the rust, the shear bolt (or pin spring in the parts book) had sheared off the coupling a long time ago. the damage was recent (shiny metal) and stripped threads matches up with what likely caused it - engaging PTO at potentially low RPMs.

after splitting the tractor, i slid the propellor shaft out and mounted it back onto the transmission shaft. turning by hand, i was able to make the coupling slip. afterwards i engaged the PTO gear and turned the transmission shaft by hand. the PTO output turned without a problem. when i had the squeal the PTO did nothing. so odds are, i found the issue.

rather than dig further, i'll replace the shear bolt, reassemble, replace the oil and see how she goes.

aside, splitting the tractor at the transmission was fairly simple (just dont forget the mud guards ), with the only caveat being the foot pedal rod into the HST. getting the cotter pin out/back in will take some patience. all else is a no-brainer.

cheers
f

 

[Tig]

Thanks for the detailed update. Good luck with the repair.

 

[zukota]

...and stripped threads matches up with what likely caused it - engaging PTO at potentially low RPMs.

wait. what?


I'm a little new to tractors and PTO, but I thought low RPM engagement was the name of the game?

 

[futch]

well i'm back in business. replaced the shear bolt and she's running...smoother too on the new lube.

wait. what?


I'm a little new to tractors and PTO, but I thought low RPM engagement was the name of the game?

i'm no expert either but in my experience, engaging PTO at low RPMs may not have enough power to overcome the attachments startup torque. engine could stall at the very least.

 

[zukota]

well i'm back in business. replaced the shear bolt and she's running...smoother too on the new lube.



i'm no expert either but in my experience, engaging PTO at low RPMs may not have enough power to overcome the attachments startup torque. engine could stall at the very least.

Sorry for not letting this go, maybe the mods can split this and move it into the owing / operating forum?

Anyway. It sounds to me like it would be the exact opposite. A low RPM PTO engagement (minimum tractor torque) and a large or bound implement should result in a stalled tractor, as you suggested. But a high RPM PTO (maximum tractor torque) engagement with a large or bound implement would result in a failure at the weakest link - in this case the shaft spline?

 

[rnauta]

my kubota B7100 makes a grinding noise when you let out the cluch and wont move forward or back. Could the cluch be bad ?

 

[Carl_NH]

my kubota B7100 makes a grinding noise when you let out the cluch and wont move forward or back. Could the cluch be bad ?

You have a gear failure in the gearbox, not a clutch problem if it does not move F or R in any gear.

 

[Carl_NH]

my kubota B7100 makes a grinding noise when you let out the cluch and wont move forward or back. Could the cluch be bad ?

You have a gear failure in the gearbox, not a clutch problem if it does not move F or R in any gear.

 

[wally bear]

my clutch does not release. it sounds like I have to split the tractor. I replaced the clutch about 2 years ago but I found the clutch hard to set up. this time I want to do it right. what should a person replace when I get in there? any advise is appreciated

 

[Tx Jim]

my kubota B7100 makes a grinding noise when you let out the cluch and wont move forward or back. Could the cluch be bad ?

Clutch hub could have stripped out.