Spray Booth Ducting

[Fixemall]

i'm still not clear on your inlet side... did you just cut holes in the walls? i need to maintain the ability to securely lock up the building, as well i have gone to fairly great lengths to prevent mouse/rodent issues. if i went to direct filters in the walls, i would have to address these issues. using the eaves for inlet takes away a lot of worries.


I just cut out one of the squares in the door and hinged it, when in use I put a filter in the hole, when not in use I closed it and used a door bolting lock to secure it.

 

[rjmack]

You can use all kinds of furnace filters and convince yourself they are doing you some good. But, I have a lifetime of experience painting cars in garages, body shops, outdoors, in homemade spray booths, and factory spray booths. I still will tell you your best bet is to just make a simple cross draft with screens for your intake, and a slow fan on the other end. I painted cars everyday for many, many years that way, and short of spending the big money for the down draft booth, it works the best.

okay, sold.

i'm still going to vent through the eaves though, maybe duct it down lower on the inside...

I just cut out one of the squares in the door and hinged it, when in use I put a filter in the hole, when not in use I closed it and used a door bolting lock to secure it.

okay, now i get it, thanks... i'll probably go with something like that on the fan end.

 

[ray66v]

Since the shutters on an exhaust fan never really close, we used to build a cabinet over the fan, and insulate the inside. When your done with it, you simply close the doors.

In later years, I used a single hung window, and mounted the fan so that it hinged on one side of the window. You could move the fan out of the way, and close the window. It also left you with a window for light, and air, when your not painting.

Your cleanest paint jobs will usually come when you get in, get the paint on, get out, and get it to set up as soon as your done. The longer you spend in between coats, and with it wet, (open), before it starts to set, and the more air you pull across it, the more opportunity there is for dirt to set in.

Your at a disadvantage working part time at this because you have fewer opportunities to experiment with speeding the process up. But there are fast setting products available today, that can help you with this. These are generally the more expensive products, but they are worth the money.

Since I have retired, I have painted some show quality motorcycle parts, and some aircraft parts, outside in my back yard, (some people won't take I don't want to do this anymore for an answer). They required no buffing, because I was able to use products that I knew would set, right after I finished.

Don't forget, the sun, and a light breeze can be your best friend when you paint.

 

[rjmack]

Don't forget, the sun, and a light breeze can be your best friend when you paint.

i may buy some lights today... i guess i should go as high as possible on kelvin temp? any other suggestions re the lights? fixture styles etc. (and no, i can't afford the self enclosed units... wish i could)

i'm not sure whether to get a few 5 or 6 bulb t8 fixtures or go with more double bulb units to broaden coverage. i have 4 100w incandescents for the basic lighting. i also have 5-500w halogen portables that i have accumulated over the years... not sure whether to use them or not.

 

[ray66v]

You don't have to worry about color temperature, unless you going to match colors in there.

These bulbs are available at Home Depot, make sure you buy the TCP brand. $20 gets you a bulb and a socket. $16 gets you just the bulb. They use 68 watts, but put out 300 watts of light. And they can be turned on at -20F. I hate CFL's, but these are great. No noise, no hum. The only draw back is, (1) it takes a few minute for them to reach full brightness. But, they are as bright as a 100watt bulb when you turn them on. (2) They are about 10 inches long, which can be an issue if you have a low ceiling.

 

[crbr]

Good thread and info..

 

[rjmack]

well, i went to the nearest home depot (50+ miles) and that store doesn't stock those bulbs. no big deal, i had to go there anyway.

so the closest thing they had were the phillips 150w Philips | 42 Watt Twister Daylight | Home Depot Canada

i like the look of these, they had one lit up in the store. Commercial Electric | 6-Light High Output Fluorescent High Bay | Home Depot Canada

i don't know if it's because i'm a welder or what, but the limited experience i have had with cfl's was that they hurt my eyes. i don't know if the tcp's would be different than the phillips or not.

i didn't buy any lights today but got the rest of the insulation and poly i need. the snag is i have to finish the ducting and wiring before insulating the roof and i have to figure out what i'm going to do for lighting before finishing the wiring.

guess i'll have to take a bit more time to think it through. btw, am considering giving up on the eaves/ducting idea... there just doesn't seem to be anything out there to do the job easily (cheaply). the weather is already fluctuating between +10 and -20 so there is some incentive to get things insulated sooner rather than later.

 

[crbr]

well, i went to the nearest home depot (50+ miles) and that store doesn't stock those bulbs. no big deal, i had to go there anyway.

so the closest thing they had were the phillips 150w Philips | 42 Watt Twister Daylight | Home Depot Canada

i like the look of these, they had one lit up in the store. Commercial Electric | 6-Light High Output Fluorescent High Bay | Home Depot Canada

i don't know if it's because i'm a welder or what, but the limited experience i have had with cfl's was that they hurt my eyes. i don't know if the tcp's would be different than the phillips or not.

i didn't buy any lights today but got the rest of the insulation and poly i need. the snag is i have to finish the ducting and wiring before insulating the roof and i have to figure out what i'm going to do for lighting before finishing the wiring.

guess i'll have to take a bit more time to think it through. btw, am considering giving up on the eaves/ducting idea... there just doesn't seem to be anything out there to do the job easily (cheaply). the weather is already fluctuating between +10 and -20 so there is some incentive to get things insulated sooner rather than later.

Glad the trip was not a total loss...

 

[ray66v]

A high bay fixture is not made for a low ceiling.

We have those in some of our airplane hangers. They are hung at 20' and they still have lots of glare. They are super bright, and meant to be hung high. I can't imagine what it would be like at 8 or 10'.

If you have a local electrical supply house, they should have the large CFL's. My local store says they have a 400 watt output bulb now.

You can also get them online.

Lowe's also has a similar bulb.

I would not wast my money on the 42 watt Phillips bulbs. I have had very little luck with bulbs like that mounted base up. Most of them are not made for that. The large ones I suggested are.

 

[grsthegreat]

I have a high output 4 lamp T5 high bay fixture mounted 12' above my work bench....LOVE IT. no more squinting to see my work now. Like working in daylight. This fixyure has four 52 watt T5 - 4 foot lamps with reflectors.