Started to learn to use my tractor today!

[Spiveyman]

One lesson I thought I might add, since reversing the dirt scoop was mentioned, is that three point hitches and the lift arms are made for pulling, not pushing. You can push with them, but be warned that they will bend and once bent, are a pain to fix, and worse to pay to replace. If you reverse the dirt scoop, just be careful that you don't try to overdo it. The dirt scoop isn't the only thing to be careful on that with. Backing into something with the bush hog, or trying to backgrade with a box blade also will do it. Just remember that the lift arms, or the uprights on your implements are made for pulling, and when you put the tractor in reverse, you need to be careful with just how much pressure you put on it. Most tractor owners do push with the lift arms, but experience goes a long way and I just thought you should be warned of the dangers of the reverse gear.
David from jax

Thanks for this warning!!! I just got a new BB and have heard about people using it in reverse for "dozing." I was anxious to get her out and give it a try. So how fragile are we talking here? I have a Ford 6610 - the lift arms look pretty stout, but I sure don't want to destroy them.

 

[Grrrr]

Thanks for this warning!!! I just got a new BB and have heard about people using it in reverse for "dozing." I was anxious to get her out and give it a try. So how fragile are we talking here? I have a Ford 6610 - the lift arms look pretty stout, but I sure don't want to destroy them.

I think you should be ok with your arms for a bit of dozing in reverse. But you need to be careful as your tractor has so much traction, power and weight that you don't hit something that wouldn't move and then you might turn them into pretzels. You may also end up pretzelling the BB because the arms could be stronger than the BB. You will soon learn how much it can take

 

[sandman2234]

Spiveyman,
I especially don't want you to pretzel your lift arms! Some of the other owners won't bother me too much, but I need a set for my 7710 and your probably in the size range for what I need. If you bend yours, your going to be looking for the same thing I am, or close enough that I could make them work. My 7710 came without them, since it has a Turner boom mower on it. The price of the 4 piece lift arm set is running around six to eight hundred dollars, plus shipping, so consider that when you pop it into the reverse gear. It doesn't take but one stump or rock hidden in the ground that is immovable to stop the box blade, and if the tractor keeps going, instead of spinning the wheels, guess what takes up the slack. Split seconds if your going slow, less if your using a higher reverse gear. I try to always use the lowest reverse gear possible and keep the clutch foot ready. However, don't make the mistake of leaving your foot sitting on the clutch pedal while backing up, as that has other consequences that start at about twice the cost of the lift arm set.
David from jax

 

[SkunkWerX]

I think you should be ok with your arms for a bit of dozing in reverse. But you need to be careful as your tractor has so much traction, power and weight that you don't hit something that wouldn't move and then you might turn them into pretzels. You may also end up pretzelling the BB because the arms could be stronger than the BB. You will soon learn how much it can take

Spivey, I agree a little dozing backwards is OK. I did for years, but, if the machine is larger with lots of power there is always room for caution.

I think the idea with a boxblade in reverse, is to be able to push around already dredged-up loose dirt. For spreading or piling purposes. You should be able to do that all day long without a problem.

Actually diggiing down , and then possibly hitting large stones and obstructions, now there's where the problems come in to play.
If you are in a field and cutting an inch or so at a time going backwards, probably that is well within the margin for strength. of course, local terrain may dictate differently, depending on whether you have tractor-sized granite boulder outcroppings, or buried junk.

 

[Spiveyman]

Thanks for the input - I'm not really going to "play dozer" with this thing. If it's compacted or I need to get down I'll probably count on the scarifers pulling to get the job done. Anything I'd doze with this would be loose dirt, nothing that strong. Especially now that I'm more aware of the dangers.

 

[john_bud]

On going backwards. FIRST set the box for that activity!!!! You need to RAISE the rear of the box (shorten the top link) so it is about 1/2" to 1" higher than the front. That will keep it from digging in and finding immovable objects while being powered by your unstoppable force.


On the strength of the arms. Try this. Hold a soda straw vertical and clamp a vice grip to the bottom end while holding the top end. Keep clamping vice grips to it and each other. You can probably clamp all you own and the straw won't break. Now, hold the bottom of a new straw and clamp a VG to the top. It will break over instantly. Your lower arms are like that, only stronger. They can pull huge amounts and never fail, but can fail when pushing modest amounts. Ask 3RRL...

If you read Rob's thread on beefing up his lower arms after bending them up, take one thing into consideration. If the arms are stronger, what is the next weakest link? I'll give you a hint, it will cost 10x-20x more than the lower arms to repair. That's why I don't follow Rob's lead on that one. YMMV

jb

 

[john_bud]

duplicate post - deleted.

jb

 

[jbrumberg]

I agree with john bud on using the box blade as a "dozer blade" on previously untouched material. So far I have only used the box blade as a dozer blade to move material that had already been "moved" by tiller, FEL, or box blade. It has worked well in that capacity . I will try the box blade on snow this winter as the situation presents . I am leary about how much stress/shock load the lower link lift arms and what they attach to on the tractor frame can handle when using the box blade as a dozer blade. Jay

 

[sandman2234]

I was hesitant to post this caution, because one of the last times I mentioned it, I was pretty much told I didn't have a clue about how to use a box blade, so I politely bowed out. Anyone with considerable boxblade experience can probably understand why I posted the caution, as I felt the cost of his lift arms were equal to the cost of his box blade and I knew he didn't want to mess them up. I would have felt bad having thought to post it, and then refrained and the next day he bent his lift arms. Now at least if it does happen, he can tell us exactly the amount of force and the size of the obstacle require to bend a 6610 lift arm and be fairly accurate about it, because I know he will be watching it.
So when are you going to wear off some of that yellow paint?
David from jax

 

[jmfox]

I spent 20 years on a 6 way hytico and backwards and forwards was about the same rhythm. The only difference is that you can relax a little going forward. Backing up requires constant attention. I never really plowed with it. It was more like hover and push. If you can fly a helicopter you shouldn't have any problems.

jmf