Starter question...

[Richard]

(I'm noticing my return key doesn't move this down so please pardon the difficult paragraph to read) The starter is on a backhoe/loader but frankly, that shouldn't matter. Pulled starter off, installed a new solenoid on it & put all back. Preface: If the battery is strong, the machine will start immediately and all is well. Since I also need a new alternator, I'm always working with a weak battery which brings this next problem. <p> If the battery is weak, the engine won't start right away. When I release the key, the starter will STILL keep trying to start. This gets the wires hot. I get around this by pulling the negative off the battery but the bottom line is, the solenoid won't release the "start machine" mode until it's 100% disconnected. Now, if the battery is strong and the machine starts up, the starter does NOT exhibit this problem. Only when the machine doesn't start. Any thoughts?

 

[ETpilot]

(I'm noticing my return key doesn't move this down so please pardon the difficult paragraph to read) The starter is on a backhoe/loader but frankly, that shouldn't matter. Pulled starter off, installed a new solenoid on it & put all back. Preface: If the battery is strong, the machine will start immediately and all is well. Since I also need a new alternator, I'm always working with a weak battery which brings this next problem. <p> If the battery is weak, the engine won't start right away. When I release the key, the starter will STILL keep trying to start. This gets the wires hot. I get around this by pulling the negative off the battery but the bottom line is, the solenoid won't release the "start machine" mode until it's 100% disconnected. Now, if the battery is strong and the machine starts up, the starter does NOT exhibit this problem. Only when the machine doesn't start. Any thoughts?

A rather strange problem. You don't identify which wires get hot. What you may do is connect a voltmeter to the solenoid trigger wire. With the key off you should read no voltage. While starting the backhoe you will read battery voltage during the start procedure. When you release the key the voltage should go to zero. If the starter sticks and with key released, you read voltage then something upstream from the solenoid is sticking. Starter switch, engine starter relay, etc.

If the starter sticks and with key released, you read no voltage on the voltmeter then the problem is at the starter. The solenoid or the starter is sticking.

Not sure how strong battery weak battery plays a role here. Hope this helps some.

 

[Tx Jim]

A low battery has been known to make starter solenoid hang in start position. Repair your alternator or replace weak battery to solve your tractor's starter hanging problem

 

[banjodunn]

G'day as Jim said a new/reco altenator will be cheaper than a starter repair.



Jon

 

[Richard]

A rather strange problem. You don't identify which wires get hot. What you may do is connect a voltmeter to the solenoid trigger wire. With the key off you should read no voltage. While starting the backhoe you will read battery voltage during the start procedure. When you release the key the voltage should go to zero. If the starter sticks and with key released, you read voltage then something upstream from the solenoid is sticking. Starter switch, engine starter relay, etc.

If the starter sticks and with key released, you read no voltage on the voltmeter then the problem is at the starter. The solenoid or the starter is sticking.

Not sure how strong battery weak battery plays a role here. Hope this helps some.

Sorry I've not responded. Been in training AND, in several more hours, leave for a week (to go to Sunny Northern Minnesota for more training, UGH!!)

Anyways, the wires that get warm are the battery leads because they're trying to push the power out to crank the engine.

Personally, I'm suspect at the solenoid. Other than the temperature outside, I'm planning on yanking the entire thing and taking it to the shop.

The point about the strong battery/weak battery:

If the battery is strong, the battery will crank the engine just fine and it starts up immediately. I suspect when the engine starts, it will sling the starter solenoid off the flywheel and any 'sticking' isn't noticed.

When instead, the battery is weak, it doesn't rotate the flywheel doesn't turn very fast and since the engine doesn't start, it just stays in a weak cranking mode.

Much like having a weak battery on your car but, holding the key to "start" and pushing the system.

I need to yank the starter as well as the alternator (which has to get yanked every several years for rebuilding)

Now... should I take SPF 2 or SPF 34 on my trip to Minnesota.... oh, the decisions....