Starting a tractor in extreme cold temperatures

[07wingnut]

You mentioned that after the first start attempt, the battery starts getting weak, in spite of the battery tender being used. It might be because at the temperatures you are experiencing, the battery output is probably less than half of its rating, and at that temperature, it won't take a proper charge, either from the tender, or from the tractor generating system. Cheap fix, buy a battery blanket to keep the battery warm, and leave it plugged in all winter. I believe they take about 50 to 60 watts, not a large hit to the wallet for purchase, or electrical consumption.

 

[SylvainG]

The battery is new from last year. The starter didn't start to slow down after the first crank cycle but after about 5 tries, it did bog down when cranking. That's when I called it a day and waited until it was warmer. At -20C, it started on the first crank. I didn't want to fully drain the battery and not have any juice when it was warmer. The battery is oddly positioned at the front, behind the front grill and the wing nuts holding the grill in place were frozen so I would have been unable to jump start it if I would have drained it.

 

[priberc]

IMO......Ditch the 300w "heater" I had one in my tractor and unless I left it plugged in all the time [literally 24/7] right from shutting the tractor down it did nothing at all. These will not "thaw out" an engine and were never meant to. Look at getting a really block heater like your car or PU has. One that fits into one of your frost plugs.
I read you have fresh 10w/30 in it now look for 5w/30 or 5w/40 and run that year round. This will help the engine turn over a bit faster making starting up easier/faster. The lower the first number the lower the pour point ,the thinner the oil is. Look at your owners manual it should give you some options for oil and the temperature ranges the manufacturer recommends for each

 

[SylvainG]

Thanks. I'll look for a block heater. That one came with the tractor when I bought it last year. Regarding the oil, the owner manual doesn't mention anything below 10 grade. For below freezing, they only recommend 10W, 10W30 or 10W40. That's why I went with the 10W30.

I'll check if the pan is made of steel or aluminum and get a magnetic one if made of steel. Seems like the easiest route. BTW, my car is a Tesla so nope, no block heater there ;-)

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'll check if the pan is made of steel or aluminum and get a magnetic one if made of steel.

So I buy stick on ones off of Amazon. 250 watt for roughly $20.

 

[nknelsen]

"I have a 300W heater on the cooling line.....".
I don't know what you mean by having a heater in a cooling line.
The heater should be in the block to warm the coolant in the block and the walls of the cylinders. It will heat the cylinder walls and reduce the oil viscosity locally to make cranking the engine easier. It will also help start the combustion process by warming the walls of the cylinder. I would talk to the dealer's parts department and see if they have one for your tractor. Most OEM's have a block heater for this purpose and since you are up in Canada where cold weather is the norm, your tractor should have come equipped with one.

A coolant heater is quite effective if working properly. It heats and circulates the coolant through the motor. If coolant is effective to remove heat from the engine then it's also going to be effective to reintroduce heat to the inner workings of an engine.

Some believe that a coolant heater is better then a block heater. I do also believe that it could be better and more efficient, the problem that I have with them is the belief that anything with an electric circulation pump rarely runs trouble free for long. A block heater rarely quits working in my experience.

 

[LHF2019]

Thanks. I'll look for a block heater. That one came with the tractor when I bought it last year. Regarding the oil, the owner manual doesn't mention anything below 10 grade. For below freezing, they only recommend 10W, 10W30 or 10W40. That's why I went with the 10W30.

I'll check if the pan is made of steel or aluminum and get a magnetic one if made of steel. Seems like the easiest route. BTW, my car is a Tesla so nope, no block heater there ;-)

https://www.google.com/search?q=coolant+line+heater&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS988US989&oq=coolant+line+heater&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i10i22i30.5178j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Is this the style your talking about? No experience with those. Looking at your wattage difference you need a little more.

This is what I have on my 4 cylinders and you should have no reason to use different oils. 2 hours -10F and the tractor will start with no additional help. 5 hours and it is melting snow off the hood.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/kat-s-circulating-tank-heater/0000000047511

 

[RalphVa]

Should start with about 1/2 turn of the crankshaft if glow plugs, etc. are working correctly. Even our old 220D did this at -22 F in Vermont sitting outside.

If you're using that 15w40 goo, it won't crank very fast though.

 

[oosik]

I'm retired and have no duties that require starting my tractor in such cold weather. Besides - when it's that cold - I don't want to be out in the cold either.

However - contrary to my better judgement - I've started my M6040 a couple times with temps down as low as -20F. I ALWAYS have a battery tender hooked up in the winter. Nothing else.

The tractor will fire right up. It coughs, grunts, blows smoke for a few seconds - then smooths out and runs fine. I use PS white jug in my diesel fuel - year round.

If I had animals that required daily maintenance -
- battery tender
- lower radiator hose tank heater
- cabbed tractor

This would be a more economical alternative to a heated building/barn.

JMHO ......

 

[IndyJay]

Thanks. I'll look for a block heater. That one came with the tractor when I bought it last year. Regarding the oil, the owner manual doesn't mention anything below 10 grade. For below freezing, they only recommend 10W, 10W30 or 10W40. That's why I went with the 10W30.

I'll check if the pan is made of steel or aluminum and get a magnetic one if made of steel. Seems like the easiest route. BTW, my car is a Tesla so nope, no block heater there ;-)

He probably should have specified Synthetic. Something like Rotella T6