ym2610
Silver Member
Hi scesnick, never a dumb question on here, I know because I have ask them /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif OK a question for you, what kind of tractor do you have, or did I miss that one somewhere, just wondering. Robert
Starting fluid ?
- Thread starter scesnick
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I have a 1500d and the compression release is a rod with a 90 degree bend in it just below the dash on the left side. You need to turn it not pull it. This will release compression to warm cylinders. After cranking for approximately 15 seconds, release handle. This will close release. Make sure you have fuel handle around mid way open.
cwarrix
Silver Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( O.K This may be a dumb queston but, I'm gonna ask anyway. This decompression lever, is it the same lever that shuts down the motor? or am I missing something??? )</font>
Like others have told me before, there are no dumb question, except the ones you don't ask. The lever you use to shut down the motor is probably the throttle. It's the same one you have to open up (or pull back some) to get it to start. It is on the right side of the dash. Pull it back to go fast, push forward to slow down, all the way forward to kill it (maybe, might be different for your tractor.) The decompression lever on mine is under the dash on the left side. You don't have to use it all the time to start the tractor, maybe just when it's very cold. You don't use the decompression lever to stop the motor, just to help start it. It will not start with this lever engaged. You just crank it for a few seconds with the lever engaged so it turns over nice and easy (no compression) and then turn it off, and start as the regular way.
Hope that helps, it would help if we knew what kind of tractor you have /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Chuck
Like others have told me before, there are no dumb question, except the ones you don't ask. The lever you use to shut down the motor is probably the throttle. It's the same one you have to open up (or pull back some) to get it to start. It is on the right side of the dash. Pull it back to go fast, push forward to slow down, all the way forward to kill it (maybe, might be different for your tractor.) The decompression lever on mine is under the dash on the left side. You don't have to use it all the time to start the tractor, maybe just when it's very cold. You don't use the decompression lever to stop the motor, just to help start it. It will not start with this lever engaged. You just crank it for a few seconds with the lever engaged so it turns over nice and easy (no compression) and then turn it off, and start as the regular way.
Hope that helps, it would help if we knew what kind of tractor you have /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Chuck
OP
scesnick
Veteran Member
O.K. , Boy do I feel dumb now !!! My decompression lever is also on the dash, sort of by my left knee. I thought that was the way to shut down the tractor. I guess because my back hoe has a fuel cutoff lever that is very simular in the same place. i never really put 2 and 2 together...( just got the tractor)
Anyhoo, I understand how it works now. I usually shut the tractor off with the throttle fully forward anyway.
YM 2610, I have a YM 2000.
I did go out and check my thermo start today. I know that usually to operate the thermostart you turn the key to the left , But,, The previous owner was a tinkerer and he put a toggle switch on it for this chore. I opened up the air cleaner and could see the cigarette lighter looking ignitor but nothing happened when I hit the botton. I then turn the key to the left to see if that did anything. Still nothing.
Any advice on what to do next???
Anyhoo, I understand how it works now. I usually shut the tractor off with the throttle fully forward anyway.
YM 2610, I have a YM 2000.
I did go out and check my thermo start today. I know that usually to operate the thermostart you turn the key to the left , But,, The previous owner was a tinkerer and he put a toggle switch on it for this chore. I opened up the air cleaner and could see the cigarette lighter looking ignitor but nothing happened when I hit the botton. I then turn the key to the left to see if that did anything. Still nothing.
Any advice on what to do next???
I'm not familliar with the thermostart, but I'd check for 12v to the switch, then out of the switch to the lighter thingy....
I wouldnt use this method if I had the T/S system, but I just remembered another starting aid I have seen used.. You can take a rag with some gasoline on it and hold it in front otf the intake.
Now, for those that are not familliar, a diesel has a great deal of compression and in some cases might be able to suck the rag from your hand and maybe leave you a nice hicky on your hand too. So be carefull.. But then again for saftey, you should be in your seat while trying to start it..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I wouldnt use this method if I had the T/S system, but I just remembered another starting aid I have seen used.. You can take a rag with some gasoline on it and hold it in front otf the intake.
Now, for those that are not familliar, a diesel has a great deal of compression and in some cases might be able to suck the rag from your hand and maybe leave you a nice hicky on your hand too. So be carefull.. But then again for saftey, you should be in your seat while trying to start it..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
normde2001
Elite Member
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"Any advice on what to do next???"
Get out your volt/ohm meter and troubleshoot.
Get out your volt/ohm meter and troubleshoot.
mark777
Veteran Member
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That's what I was thinking...VOM the switch, toggle and lead to the heat element. The thermostart is a very nice feature to have when the temp drops to below 40*.
Lately, I've heard people using propane (torch bottled) blown into the intake....I haven't tried this but don't see why it wouldn't assist in cold start problems.
Lately, I've heard people using propane (torch bottled) blown into the intake....I haven't tried this but don't see why it wouldn't assist in cold start problems.
arthr31
Platinum Member
Mark,
I started my 1601 last winter this way before I installed the TS... I had the tractor stuck out in the woods (wouldn't start, too cold) so a friend and I took the hose off the air intake and heated up the intake manifold a bit with the torch... It works, but you kinda need two people to keep the heat going and then the engine cranking...
As an occassional or emergency starting aid, sure, long-term, I chose to get the TS installed... Now the tractor starts pretty OK in 20F weather...
Scesnick, where are you, how cold are your ambient temps? I'd recommend getting the TS working... If you need to replace the element, several of the dealers here (Hoye and LMTC) have these ... easy to install too! Good luck. -Art
I started my 1601 last winter this way before I installed the TS... I had the tractor stuck out in the woods (wouldn't start, too cold) so a friend and I took the hose off the air intake and heated up the intake manifold a bit with the torch... It works, but you kinda need two people to keep the heat going and then the engine cranking...
As an occassional or emergency starting aid, sure, long-term, I chose to get the TS installed... Now the tractor starts pretty OK in 20F weather...
Scesnick, where are you, how cold are your ambient temps? I'd recommend getting the TS working... If you need to replace the element, several of the dealers here (Hoye and LMTC) have these ... easy to install too! Good luck. -Art
greatrandini
Gold Member
I bet someone left the toggle switch on and burned up the element. I would get a new one and replace it too! I would get rid of the toggle switch even if I had to order a new igniton switch from Hoye...
Just what I would do!!
Just what I would do!!
OP
scesnick
Veteran Member
Arthr31,
I am in the Western Md. Mountains on the Wv. Border. at about 3,000 ft. it gets cold on the farm and the wind just howls !!! It has been around 15 deg. for a high the last week or so.
I do have power to the toggle switch, I know because it's the kind that lights up when it is on. I think GreatRandini has it right when he said that someone probably left the switch on and burned up the elelment.
How much are the new ones and where can i get one???
I would just like to take a minute and say that you guys are a great help. ****, I would still be shutting down my tractor with the decompression lever if it wasn't for you guys !! ( lol )
I
I am in the Western Md. Mountains on the Wv. Border. at about 3,000 ft. it gets cold on the farm and the wind just howls !!! It has been around 15 deg. for a high the last week or so.
I do have power to the toggle switch, I know because it's the kind that lights up when it is on. I think GreatRandini has it right when he said that someone probably left the switch on and burned up the elelment.
How much are the new ones and where can i get one???
I would just like to take a minute and say that you guys are a great help. ****, I would still be shutting down my tractor with the decompression lever if it wasn't for you guys !! ( lol )
I
mark777
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Art -
LOL...Actually I meant they are using the propane gas (no flame) by injecting it into the intake. Never thought about the heat source from the torch itself..
Mark
LOL...Actually I meant they are using the propane gas (no flame) by injecting it into the intake. Never thought about the heat source from the torch itself..
Mark
arthr31
Platinum Member
Hi Mark,
heh... Didn't even think about just using the gas from the propane tank... Fortunately I don't have to use the flame anymore (not at least this year so far...)
scesnick, you can get the thermostart element from one of the dealers who frequent this site. I happened to get mine from hoye tractor (hoyetractor.com). If I remember correctly, it costs about $75
-art
heh... Didn't even think about just using the gas from the propane tank... Fortunately I don't have to use the flame anymore (not at least this year so far...)
scesnick, you can get the thermostart element from one of the dealers who frequent this site. I happened to get mine from hoye tractor (hoyetractor.com). If I remember correctly, it costs about $75
-art
Cord
Veteran Member
The older diesel tractors actually came from the factory with starting fluid assist. You pushed a button on the dash to activate the system. I believe the user timed it. The bottle was mounted upside down right on the engine. The critical level is not so much fluid that you get liquid in the engine, but enough to create the required heat to ignite the diesel fuel. A quick pfft into the intake (with the air cleaner removed) when cranking will be ok.
ym2610
Silver Member
Thanks HGM for your post, I have been starting mine wrong, I would pull the decompression handle, let the oil pressure build, then push it back in and pull the throttle lever then start it, show what a dummy can learn on here, start much faster and easier when you pull the decompression handle and the throttle lever, let the oil pressure build, then push the decompression handle back in, I couldn't believe the difference, but if this is wrong someone please tell me /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. Thanks Robert
justanotherjoe
Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2002
- Messages
- 48
To help on cold starts (my thermostart is dead):
1) Change to full synthetic oil in crankcase because thin oil lets engine crank faster
2) Block heater in lower radiator hose, plugged in for several hours before cranking, warm thin oil lets engine crank faster. The electric, oil-filled radiator under the tractor, under a tarp sounds like a good idea.
3) Trickle charge battery night before, charging warms the battery a little, higher voltage helps it crank faster. Clean terminals at both ends of positive and negative cables.
4) Use decompression lever, because it lets the engine crank faster. Read Yanmar owner's manual for procedure.
5) Use powerservice fuel additive with antigel. Set throttle to maximum to start, reduce to half as soon as engine catches.
6) Get a hair dryer (yard sale or Walmart. not your wife's). Remove entire air cleaner assembly. Run hot air into intake to warm intake and for engine to suck warm air when cranking. Hold hair dryer on intake while cranking and until engine catches, you need an assistant for this. Hair dryer running and starting fluid is explosive fire hazard.
8) Ether was an extreme solvent, starting fluid is too, but not as bad. Solvent is not what you want on your cylinder walls. WD40 might be a good substitute.
9) After cranking the engine (decompression with left hand)to get lube and fuel moving, I use ONE short squirt of starting fluid, sprayed at the intake with my left hand, WHILE the engine is cranking. You can hear the engine suddenly rev up from combustion of the start fluid (that is abusing a cold engine.) Do not ever spray start fluid into a engine , then crank it, that is how to break something.
10) On a cold morning, begin early on these procedures, be patient, there is no good, quick way to start a worn, older diesel engine. Hurrying or using shortcuts may cause you to damage your tractor.
1) Change to full synthetic oil in crankcase because thin oil lets engine crank faster
2) Block heater in lower radiator hose, plugged in for several hours before cranking, warm thin oil lets engine crank faster. The electric, oil-filled radiator under the tractor, under a tarp sounds like a good idea.
3) Trickle charge battery night before, charging warms the battery a little, higher voltage helps it crank faster. Clean terminals at both ends of positive and negative cables.
4) Use decompression lever, because it lets the engine crank faster. Read Yanmar owner's manual for procedure.
5) Use powerservice fuel additive with antigel. Set throttle to maximum to start, reduce to half as soon as engine catches.
6) Get a hair dryer (yard sale or Walmart. not your wife's). Remove entire air cleaner assembly. Run hot air into intake to warm intake and for engine to suck warm air when cranking. Hold hair dryer on intake while cranking and until engine catches, you need an assistant for this. Hair dryer running and starting fluid is explosive fire hazard.
8) Ether was an extreme solvent, starting fluid is too, but not as bad. Solvent is not what you want on your cylinder walls. WD40 might be a good substitute.
9) After cranking the engine (decompression with left hand)to get lube and fuel moving, I use ONE short squirt of starting fluid, sprayed at the intake with my left hand, WHILE the engine is cranking. You can hear the engine suddenly rev up from combustion of the start fluid (that is abusing a cold engine.) Do not ever spray start fluid into a engine , then crank it, that is how to break something.
10) On a cold morning, begin early on these procedures, be patient, there is no good, quick way to start a worn, older diesel engine. Hurrying or using shortcuts may cause you to damage your tractor.
Good god man.............Where do you live? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Sounds like you need to make an appointment to start your tractor /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif..
I started mine in cold weather for the first time the other day(19*F).. It was sllooowwww, but with the decompression it wasnt bad. I would like to get a block heater, where did you get the one in your radiator hose? I have also read about a magnetic heater on the oil pan that sounds like a good idea, one or the other should work well.
Sounds like you need to make an appointment to start your tractor /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif..
I started mine in cold weather for the first time the other day(19*F).. It was sllooowwww, but with the decompression it wasnt bad. I would like to get a block heater, where did you get the one in your radiator hose? I have also read about a magnetic heater on the oil pan that sounds like a good idea, one or the other should work well.
mark777
Veteran Member
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I would seriously consider repairing or replacing the thermostart system on your tractor. That is just too much time and work involved combating the elements for a cold start procedure.
Not sure what temperatures your dealing with, and I understand the trickle charge, pre-heat exterior especially if you only use your tractor occasionally...like a couple times a month but that seams like an unpleasant ritual just to get her going /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
Mark
Not sure what temperatures your dealing with, and I understand the trickle charge, pre-heat exterior especially if you only use your tractor occasionally...like a couple times a month but that seams like an unpleasant ritual just to get her going /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
Mark
OP
scesnick
Veteran Member
I think I solved my cold start problem.
* sold my wood eating outdoor furnace.
* built a 30x40 INSULATED pole building
* installed an AHS coal/wood/oil boiler to heat it. ( and the house)
* Parked the Yanmar inside a nice warm building.
Problem Solved !
It was a tad more expensive than a thermostart but worth the money.
* sold my wood eating outdoor furnace.
* built a 30x40 INSULATED pole building
* installed an AHS coal/wood/oil boiler to heat it. ( and the house)
* Parked the Yanmar inside a nice warm building.
Problem Solved !
It was a tad more expensive than a thermostart but worth the money.
cwarrix
Silver Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I think I solved my cold start problem.
* sold my wood eating outdoor furnace.
* built a 30x40 INSULATED pole building
* installed an AHS coal/wood/oil boiler to heat it. ( and the house)
* Parked the Yanmar inside a nice warm building.
Problem Solved !
It was a tad more expensive than a thermostart but worth the money. )</font>
That should solve your problem alright! Just a tad more expensive than a thermostart /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
* sold my wood eating outdoor furnace.
* built a 30x40 INSULATED pole building
* installed an AHS coal/wood/oil boiler to heat it. ( and the house)
* Parked the Yanmar inside a nice warm building.
Problem Solved !
It was a tad more expensive than a thermostart but worth the money. )</font>
That should solve your problem alright! Just a tad more expensive than a thermostart /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
