Alan L.
Elite Member
The foundation crew just showed up, laying it out right now!!
Starting New House Finally!
- Thread starter Alan L.
- Start date
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Pictures, pictures and more pictures!!!
Congratulations,
Eddie
Congratulations,
Eddie
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
Yes please, pics - lot's o pics...........
NSBound
Platinum Member
Alan L. said:
You are living my life about 1-2 years ahead of me! Congratulations, and a new request - pictures! And some details!!! Size, style, special features???
I got finished with my house two years ago and have lots of fond memories. I have never built anything before, this was my FIL, BIL'S and several friends that did the actual building. I was basically there for cheap grunt type labor. I was ecstatic after the basement was complete and we had the shell up. I believe the term they used was "dried in". Thats when the real fun started. I had no clue how much work was involved in wiring, plumbing, painting, flooring and drywall. I contracted out the insulation after I did some figuring of footage and priced buying it and self installing. My BIL told me to call an Insulation contractor and it was only $200.00 more for them to do the whole job. They were very expensive on soundproofing the interior walls so my wife and I did that ourselves. I never had a house with the interior walls soundproofed, what a difference. We had the kitchen done by an Amish gent that came highly reccomended. I also had him do the interior trim so I could get it done a bit faster as the Fed was raising interest rates and I wanted to convert my construction loan to a fixed rate before they raised the mortgage rates. The kitchen wasn't much different in price from me ordering the cabinets from a lumber yard and we got all solid wood. I couldn't imagine me trying to install it from a truckload of boxes. I would still be living in my trailer. Get ready for multiple trips to the building supply as you will be there alot. I used to have the guy's think for a bit before I went after materials and as soon as I'd get back therewas always something else they had to have.It bothered me at first but I started finding it amusing. I guess I'm trying to say there will be lots of surprises and it really pays to shop around on price. We saved alot of money doing that. I didnt realize the price of lumber fluctuates dramatically and you have to catch the last one to raise their prices. I learned alot and wouldn't trade the experience for anything. Maybe the ceramic tile experience I would trade, that is tons of work. Wouldn't be so bad on a slab but over a basement you have to install that cement board, screwed and glued. Almost like putting two floors in!
Sorry, I have been overwhelmed with decisions, decisions, decisions. I got my windows ordered today, we're going with Marvin Ultimate clad.
The decision of the day was whether or not to drop the slab floor down to accomodate 3/4" solid wood flooring and the 5/8" plywood that goes under it. After making the window order, we spent the rest of the day looking at engineered hardwood which is OK for concrete. Some discouraged us from using solid wood on concrete because of moisture problems, but frankly we have not been able to find any engineered flooring we like. We wanted a stressed floor, and the machine produced stressing doesn't look that good in our opinion.
So we ended up back at the local shop that does only solid wood floors. They did one on slab for my sister a couple of years ago and its worked out great so far. I like the fact that we can get the exact stain color and exact amount of stressing that we want, not just what is on the shelf. They put down plastic, then plywood, then felt. They also say don't lower the slab floor, the exterior doors can be raised and the interior doors trimmed to fit. There is actually only one door that would have to be trimmed - a closet, the rest open the other way.
And, the cost is about $10 a foot with installation, stressing, finish, and everything. The same or less than engineered flooring.
So, we at least learned that we don't need to lower the floor, and we can decide on the type of floor later.
Here are some pics of the forms after one day by the foundation crew. They still have some beams to dig, piers to drill, and plumbing to rough in.
To the left is the front of the house, the protrusion is a 6' by 42' porch. The protrusions on the back (right) are also porches. At the far end is the garage with opens at the front (right).
Not alot to go on here, but at least a start.
The decision of the day was whether or not to drop the slab floor down to accomodate 3/4" solid wood flooring and the 5/8" plywood that goes under it. After making the window order, we spent the rest of the day looking at engineered hardwood which is OK for concrete. Some discouraged us from using solid wood on concrete because of moisture problems, but frankly we have not been able to find any engineered flooring we like. We wanted a stressed floor, and the machine produced stressing doesn't look that good in our opinion.
So we ended up back at the local shop that does only solid wood floors. They did one on slab for my sister a couple of years ago and its worked out great so far. I like the fact that we can get the exact stain color and exact amount of stressing that we want, not just what is on the shelf. They put down plastic, then plywood, then felt. They also say don't lower the slab floor, the exterior doors can be raised and the interior doors trimmed to fit. There is actually only one door that would have to be trimmed - a closet, the rest open the other way.
And, the cost is about $10 a foot with installation, stressing, finish, and everything. The same or less than engineered flooring.
So, we at least learned that we don't need to lower the floor, and we can decide on the type of floor later.
Here are some pics of the forms after one day by the foundation crew. They still have some beams to dig, piers to drill, and plumbing to rough in.
To the left is the front of the house, the protrusion is a 6' by 42' porch. The protrusions on the back (right) are also porches. At the far end is the garage with opens at the front (right).
Not alot to go on here, but at least a start.
Attachments
The house is 2,163 square feet of air conditioned space (we tried in vain to keep it under 2000). There is a second bedroom and a loft/bedroom and a bath upstairs, plus a 23 by 6 exterior balcony off the upstairs bedroom and loft.
Downstairs is the master, living room, connected dining room, kitchen, and mudroom/utility room/bathroom.
We wanted a log home. Couldn't afford it, and was afraid of settling, bugs, insurance, maintenance, and tightness for energy efficiency.
We wanted a metal roof. Too expensive, so we are settling for standing seam metal over the shed roof of the front porch, the rest asphalt.
We wanted an all rock exterior. Too expensive, we are settling for brick, except cedar under the rear porches.
We are getting foam insulation in the walls, and good quality windows (Marvin wood with aluminum clad), hardwood floors on about 800 square feet. Andersen french doors, and solid knotty pine doors and trim inside. We are also getting multiple Trane 2-stage HVAC systems (XL16i) with humidity controls and variable speed air handlers. These are air heat pumps, as geothermal is too expensive. Heck this system is running about $18,000 for two sytems, plus an ERV system (fresh air exchanger) and an auxiliary mini-split system for our master bedroom (we like it very cool in there at night, so the rest of the systems can be shut down and only this one run. Its typically 59 in our bedroom when I wake up in the morning - we have a window unit that we are spoiled to.
The front view is of our pond, the rear view slopes down into a bottom with lots of trees, mostly elm. We did most of the design ourselves, after going through thousands of plans not being able to find what we wanted. We paid a plan designer about $1400 for the drawings, and we also got some good ideas from them (a husband and wife team).
We have given up some things but frankly everything has gotten so expensive we are just having to pick and choose what we can have.
Every time I see a a good sale price on something there is always a catch. Yea, there is hardwood floor you can get for $5 a foot, but the wood is about 1/16" thick on a 3/8" backing. I could put vinyl windows in and save $5000, fiberglass insulation would save $4000, and we could have saved alot by not have the balcony, and all the porches.
This is our last house, and while it has been stripped down somewhat from what I would consider a dream house, I think we will be happy with it. The fact that I'm 52 years old means I need to have it paid off in 15 years or less, so that makes it harder to afford more house.
We love the land, and love living on it, even in the 880 square feet we have now (which we will still have available - 2 bedrooms and 2 baths for a guest house). So, the new house should be wonderful.
Downstairs is the master, living room, connected dining room, kitchen, and mudroom/utility room/bathroom.
We wanted a log home. Couldn't afford it, and was afraid of settling, bugs, insurance, maintenance, and tightness for energy efficiency.
We wanted a metal roof. Too expensive, so we are settling for standing seam metal over the shed roof of the front porch, the rest asphalt.
We wanted an all rock exterior. Too expensive, we are settling for brick, except cedar under the rear porches.
We are getting foam insulation in the walls, and good quality windows (Marvin wood with aluminum clad), hardwood floors on about 800 square feet. Andersen french doors, and solid knotty pine doors and trim inside. We are also getting multiple Trane 2-stage HVAC systems (XL16i) with humidity controls and variable speed air handlers. These are air heat pumps, as geothermal is too expensive. Heck this system is running about $18,000 for two sytems, plus an ERV system (fresh air exchanger) and an auxiliary mini-split system for our master bedroom (we like it very cool in there at night, so the rest of the systems can be shut down and only this one run. Its typically 59 in our bedroom when I wake up in the morning - we have a window unit that we are spoiled to.
The front view is of our pond, the rear view slopes down into a bottom with lots of trees, mostly elm. We did most of the design ourselves, after going through thousands of plans not being able to find what we wanted. We paid a plan designer about $1400 for the drawings, and we also got some good ideas from them (a husband and wife team).
We have given up some things but frankly everything has gotten so expensive we are just having to pick and choose what we can have.
Every time I see a a good sale price on something there is always a catch. Yea, there is hardwood floor you can get for $5 a foot, but the wood is about 1/16" thick on a 3/8" backing. I could put vinyl windows in and save $5000, fiberglass insulation would save $4000, and we could have saved alot by not have the balcony, and all the porches.
This is our last house, and while it has been stripped down somewhat from what I would consider a dream house, I think we will be happy with it. The fact that I'm 52 years old means I need to have it paid off in 15 years or less, so that makes it harder to afford more house.
We love the land, and love living on it, even in the 880 square feet we have now (which we will still have available - 2 bedrooms and 2 baths for a guest house). So, the new house should be wonderful.
I can't believe the way prices have went up in just the 2 years since we built our house. Our place is 2150 sq and we have a buddy in the A/C biz. We got the geo set-up for 12k, what a deal. My FIL is an excavating contractor and he did all the trenches, 5 of them 7' deep an 150' long. He hit some VW size limestones and tore up a ton of bucket teeth moving them.
Wait until you go to buy the copper wire, talk about sticker shock! What kind of insulation did you go with, expanding foam? We put this stuff called Nu-wool in the walls and I put 1" ridgid foam over all exterior walls. We ended up with an R-25 wall and R-38 in the attic. The place is all electric and highest bill has been $108.00. I was after an energy efficient house
Have fun and good luck.
John
Wait until you go to buy the copper wire, talk about sticker shock! What kind of insulation did you go with, expanding foam? We put this stuff called Nu-wool in the walls and I put 1" ridgid foam over all exterior walls. We ended up with an R-25 wall and R-38 in the attic. The place is all electric and highest bill has been $108.00. I was after an energy efficient house
Have fun and good luck.
John
NewToy said:
From what I understand geo with wells for my house would be > $30K. I could get 3 x 2-ton Rheem 13 SEER systems with ERV for $13,500. We wanted the 2-stage for better humidity control and the higher SEER (16 or 17) for energy efficiency. Plus, we are adding the mini-split system. And, Tranes cost more than Rheems anyway, and are supposed to last longer and be more reliable.
The pier drillers showed up this morning, here are some pics.
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L
LarryRB
Guest
I have a dumb question. How come houses in that area are on slabs and have no cellar? Here in New England, a cellar is a must..
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Larry,
I'm not a cellar guy, nor have I ever lived or worked on homes with cellars. Saying that, I believe that homes with cellars are usually in very cold climates that require deep footings to build a solid home. If you have to dig down ten feet or more for your foundation, it's not that much more to make a cellar in that space.
Here there is no need to dig down very deep since we don't have a frost line. One foot is all most homes have since that's all you need to suport the exterior walls of a home. Anything more is just spending more money. Other places down here have very high water tables and if you dig a hole four feet or more in the ground, it's very likely to fill up with water.
The other reason we don't do it here very often is the expense. I can build a very nice, brand new house for $60 to $65 a foot and sell it for $72 to $75 a foot. That's brick siding, tile floors and some very nice moulding. Most of the country can't come close to doing this, and if you have to put a cellar in, it's totaly impossible.
Eddie
I'm not a cellar guy, nor have I ever lived or worked on homes with cellars. Saying that, I believe that homes with cellars are usually in very cold climates that require deep footings to build a solid home. If you have to dig down ten feet or more for your foundation, it's not that much more to make a cellar in that space.
Here there is no need to dig down very deep since we don't have a frost line. One foot is all most homes have since that's all you need to suport the exterior walls of a home. Anything more is just spending more money. Other places down here have very high water tables and if you dig a hole four feet or more in the ground, it's very likely to fill up with water.
The other reason we don't do it here very often is the expense. I can build a very nice, brand new house for $60 to $65 a foot and sell it for $72 to $75 a foot. That's brick siding, tile floors and some very nice moulding. Most of the country can't come close to doing this, and if you have to put a cellar in, it's totaly impossible.
Eddie
DUMBDOG
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Why is it so reasonable to build a home down there? Does 60-65 per foot include the land? The neighbors are building a home, 1500 down 700 up and without the land and dirt work, they are at about $60 per foot. The only work that they subbed out is the framing, pvc work and the Sheetrock finishing. The pvc is subbed out due to local regulations that a plumber has to do it.
capt jack
Silver Member
$60-$65 per sq. ft. does not include land here, and the price can go up, WAY UP. But North Texas is still a bargin compared to most of the country ( keep it quiet). Watch those "flip this house" shows and see where people are paying 250-400K for houses that need to be gutted. We have livable homes here for 35K, new brick (tract homes) starting at 110K. And no state income tax!
capt jack said:
I just sold a perfectly good 1500 sq foot rent house, a brick home with garage, custom cabinets, nothing fancy but nice for $115K. The house was 5 years old, in a good neighborhood right across from a new middle school.
When you take 2163 square feet and add 900 square feet of porches that right there adds alot to the "per square foot of living area" even before you use any premium items. Those porches have concrete, roof, and trim, as does the garage.
Then you put quality wood windows and doors, hardwood floors, and solid or granit countertops, high efficiency HVAC, foam insulation, etc, the cost really goes up. My builder built a 2200 sq ft house about 1500 feet away from me 2 years ago for $120,000, but mine will be about $100 per foot. He has no garage, very little porches, brick veneer but with vinyl siding trim, no fireplace, basic HVAC and interior finishings, etc. Not what I wanted for my last house.
And, we are giving up some things we wanted, mostly rock and metal roof.
Another factor about having slabs instead of cellars here is the expansive clay soils we have. I don't think a basement could hold up in our soils, and they are not recommended. Too bad, as I envy the people up north that have them.
I think building costs up north are higher somewhat because they require better standard building materials, plus most of the trades are union and expensive. When I watch "This Old House" it amazes me sometimes the expense they go to up there for boilers and radiant floor heating and such.
Not much activity on my foundation this week. Here is the cable that will be used for the "post tension". In place of the surface rebar, they will pull these tight, and retighten them after 14 days of curing. Note the sleeve with grease so the cables will tighten up after the cement cures. They then patch the holes in the side of the slab, and they can come back and retension again if necesary.
One concern I have is the plastic vapor barrier. The box says the stuff is 4 mil and each box is 3200 square feet, which is about the size of my slab. I sincerely hope they plan on putting two layers, since the hardwood sites I have read say the barrier should be 10 mil minimum.
One concern I have is the plastic vapor barrier. The box says the stuff is 4 mil and each box is 3200 square feet, which is about the size of my slab. I sincerely hope they plan on putting two layers, since the hardwood sites I have read say the barrier should be 10 mil minimum.
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capt jack
Silver Member
The piers are the BEST money you will spend on your house. Just make SURE the tops of the piers are CLEAN of all dirt/debris as the slab itself is poured or you wasted that pier.
