Steel Wool Filter for Kama 554

[Diamondpilot]

I still do not see why you guys with the expensive filters don't get a K&N type filter that is washable and re-oiled. Just another reason for a modification.

By the way my Jinma uses a filter I get at Advanced Auto for under $4 made by Puroilator. Guess I am lucky there. Bought all 6 they had last summer because I felt they may have been priced wrong.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Well, I have one on my Mercedes. But it's vehicle-specific, as are virtually all K&N systems. That said, it's clear that cost is the reason you don't have one on your Jinma. Cuz for the price of some K&N systems ( www.FixThisRide.com - "77 Series Performance Intake System: 1997-2003 Ford F150 pickup Polished" ) I could buy over a dozen OE cartridges.

I like my pre-filter idea better. Matter of fact, K&N has their own line. I just haven't found one yet that will fit over the big KAMA cartridge.

//greg//

 

[Skyco]

You couldn't give me a K&N filter. They let way too much dirt through. One cost me a $500 turbo (part only) because it let dirt through and dinged the blades. Many studies support the dirt fact.
In fact if anyone has a 96-97 Ford Powerstroke I'll give them my K&N for the cost of shipping, its been stored for years now, wish I'd never tried it.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

My oil-bath filter has a cyclone on the intake that throws dirt into a cup. I understand the paper filters with the plastic fins are supposed to create a cyclone effect. Where does that dirt go? (I don't have one obviously) Anyhow one option for a pre-filter is a cyclone to catch all of the larger/heavier particles either in a can or (more effectively) scavenged using something like a fan or an exhaust venturi.

 

[greg_g]

Where does that dirt go?

Your oil bath almost certainly has to be a vertical installation. The housings we have (mine anyway) are mounted horizontally, the cylindrical filter element installed horizontally as well. The fins you describe - with the help of gravity - cause solid particles to drop to the bottom of the housing, and move eventually toward a rubber flapper "drain" port. My TS354C filter has these fins, and aftermarket equivalent is available at NAPA. But the KM454/504/554 uses a much larger cartridge with no fins - and no American aftermarket equivalent (that anybody's yet found).

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

I bought a Chinese copy of a K&N for a F-150 for $25 on Ebay. Been on my truck and now my brother-n-law's truck for 8 years now. Just wash it out every 10,000 miles and re-oil. The have Generic non specific filters at Auto Zone with a 3" inlet. You simply adapt it to the intake tube and attach with a large hose clamp.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

I bought a Chinese copy of a K&N

This might be before your time. But I had an uncle that bought into that scam about using a roll of toilet paper as "the last oil filter you'll ever buy". He and his beautiful 1956 Oldsmobile Super 88 coupe - died not long after each other.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

Been running the washable filters on all 3 of my trucks without a single issue plus numerous others that I have owned. Well over a 300,000 miles and never a problem. Now I did have a engine blow up at 30,000 miles due to a bad oil pump.

Either way, just a suggestion.

Chris

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I bought a Chinese copy of a K&N for a F-150 for $25 on Ebay. Been on my truck and now my brother-n-law's truck for 8 years now. Just wash it out every 10,000 miles and re-oil. The have Generic non specific filters at Auto Zone with a 3" inlet. You simply adapt it to the intake tube and attach with a large hose clamp.

Chris

If you wash your filter every 10k miles, why don't you just use a paper filter? Where I live the stuff to wash and re-oil the filter costs as much or more than the paper filter.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Depends on the vehicle. My trucks run about $45 each for the paper filters. Granted they last a long time. My tractor and my Saturn filters cost under $5 each so paper is the way to go.

Chris