stick welder question

[Mark @ Everlast]

So if this 115v circuit I have is on 10 gauge wire and on a 30 amp breaker, I'm within the parameters of a 120 amp welder dial in while in 110/ 120 mode? While we're at it, can you please ball park shipping from Cali to RI? Thanks

Actually due to the duty cycle limitation, you'd likely be fine with less wire gauge, and a slow trip breaker according to the NEC, but don't take my word for it. Consult your local codes and licensed electrician.

PM me and I'll give you a full quote to buy direct from me.

 

[EMB5530]

So if this 115v circuit I have is on 10 gauge wire and on a 30 amp breaker, I'm within the parameters of a 120 amp welder dial in while in 110/ 120 mode? While we're at it, can you please ball park shipping from Cali to RI? Thanks

But why would you want to run it on 120V

Change out the breaker for a 240 and switch out the outlet and run at the higher voltage.It will be cheaper anyways. Where are you gonna find a 30amp 120volt plug anywhere in the real world, you are more apt to find 240 volt outlet if you were thinking that 120 would be more mobile.

Just my opinion so do whatever works best for you.

Good luck.

 

[arrow]

But why would you want to run it on 120V

Change out the breaker for a 240 and switch out the outlet and run at the higher voltage.It will be cheaper anyways. Where are you gonna find a 30amp 120volt plug anywhere in the real world, you are more apt to find 240 volt outlet if you were thinking that 120 would be more mobile.

Just my opinion so do whatever works best for you.

Good luck.

The 10 is feeding all 115 circuits into the garage. My mistake when I ran the wire 30 years ago not to provide a dedicated circuit for 220 by running another wire right next to it. As I did not encase the wire in some pipe was another mistake and now there is just too much stuff in the way for a re-do and dig up. I'm better off making a 50 foot extension to plug into the dryer circuit for the 220 stuff. I just need something that can light up some type of an electrode I can use at a 100 honest amps.

 

[EMB5530]

I get ya.

You sure ya don't want multiple 220 outlets in the garage. Man that grinder would run real fast!:shocked:

Have a good New Year's

 

[muddstopper]

The 10 is feeding all 115 circuits into the garage. My mistake when I ran the wire 30 years ago not to provide a dedicated circuit for 220 by running another wire right next to it. As I did not encase the wire in some pipe was another mistake and now there is just too much stuff in the way for a re-do and dig up. I'm better off making a 50 foot extension to plug into the dryer circuit for the 220 stuff. I just need something that can light up some type of an electrode I can use at a 100 honest amps.

Electrician son setting here beside me. His suggestion if you want 220 at your shop using the exsisting wire is it can be done. We are just guessing that the #10 wire you used to run the power does have 2 insulated and one bare wire. What you would do is change out the 110 breaker to a 220 breaker in your power supplying breaker box. (from house breaker box). Using the two insulated covered wires for your power legs and bare wire to ground. In you shop breaker box, you would take the Neutral (white wire) off the ground busbar and connect to the opposite (Positive) busbar than the one the Positive, (black wire) is hooked to. If there has been a jumper wire ran to connect both busbars, this jumper wire must be removed. Then you would use another bare wire and connect to the ground busbar,( In place of where your removed the white neutral wire), and connect to a ground rod driven into the ground. Your switch panel should now have 220v, but still retain the original 110 to any current breakers that had previously been installed. It would then be a simple matter of installing a 220 breaker and wireing in a 220 outlet. Now the size breaker you would be able to install would depend on how far the 110 wire from house to shop is, as well as what other power demands are required that are being used in the shop. You would also need to factor in the power demand of your shop when installing a 220v breaker in our house switch box. You will most likely be limited to a 30amp breaker and about 100ft of run to supply 220v to your shop considering you only have #10 wire already ran to your shop

 

[arrow]

Electrician son setting here beside me. His suggestion if you want 220 at your shop using the exsisting wire is it can be done. We are just guessing that the #10 wire you used to run the power does have 2 insulated and one bare wire. What you would do is change out the 110 breaker to a 220 breaker in your power supplying breaker box. (from house breaker box). Using the two insulated covered wires for your power legs and bare wire to ground. In you shop breaker box, you would take the Neutral (white wire) off the ground busbar and connect to the opposite (Positive) busbar than the one the Positive, (black wire) is hooked to. If there has been a jumper wire ran to connect both busbars, this jumper wire must be removed. Then you would use another bare wire and connect to the ground busbar,( In place of where your removed the white neutral wire), and connect to a ground rod driven into the ground. Your switch panel should now have 220v, but still retain the original 110 to any current breakers that had previously been installed. It would then be a simple matter of installing a 220 breaker and wireing in a 220 outlet. Now the size breaker you would be able to install would depend on how far the 110 wire from house to shop is, as well as what other power demands are required that are being used in the shop. You would also need to factor in the power demand of your shop when installing a 220v breaker in our house switch box. You will most likely be limited to a 30amp breaker and about 100ft of run to supply 220v to your shop considering you only have #10 wire already ran to your shop

Muddstopper thank you very much for your suggestion. As I am ignorant of electricity beyond the installation of a plug or breaker, I have little idea what you are talking about. None the less, I will print out your suggestion and give it to my brother -in-law former lineman. He should know. It is a 100 ft run and a 30 amp breaker would be fine. Also the guess on the wire is also correct. I have to re-read something several times before I get anything you can call cognizance.

 

[Willie B]

Where do you live that 240 Volts are that hard to come by? A twenty amp 120 volt circuit can offer an absolute maximum of 2400 watts, my coffee maker uses a big portion of that! A 120 Volt machine designed to run on a household outlet will be a long term source of frustration, always almost big enough to be useful. Have an electrician install 50 Amps 240 Volts. Then a multitude of used welders big enough to build a bridge are available.

 

[Willie B]

Electrician son setting here beside me. His suggestion if you want 220 at your shop using the exsisting wire is it can be done. We are just guessing that the #10 wire you used to run the power does have 2 insulated and one bare wire. What you would do is change out the 110 breaker to a 220 breaker in your power supplying breaker box. (from house breaker box). Using the two insulated covered wires for your power legs and bare wire to ground. In you shop breaker box, you would take the Neutral (white wire) off the ground busbar and connect to the opposite (Positive) busbar than the one the Positive, (black wire) is hooked to. If there has been a jumper wire ran to connect both busbars, this jumper wire must be removed. Then you would use another bare wire and connect to the ground busbar,( In place of where your removed the white neutral wire), and connect to a ground rod driven into the ground. Your switch panel should now have 220v, but still retain the original 110 to any current breakers that had previously been installed. It would then be a simple matter of installing a 220 breaker and wireing in a 220 outlet. Now the size breaker you would be able to install would depend on how far the 110 wire from house to shop is, as well as what other power demands are required that are being used in the shop. You would also need to factor in the power demand of your shop when installing a 220v breaker in our house switch box. You will most likely be limited to a 30amp breaker and about 100ft of run to supply 220v to your shop considering you only have #10 wire already ran to your shop

That solution isn't legal, and poses some safety issues. Code compliant that would require an insulated neutral, and a grounding conductor. While it will work, don't do it.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

When you are talking about a welder, there is NO neutral...if it's just for that circuit, and no other way to hook up a dryer or whatever, and no way to utilize one.

 

[DXN1EL]

I would suggest a 50Amp.(later on you would want a 50Amp welder) Get 200FT of 4Gauge,
for the ground have a bar near the outlet.