Straight cuts with plasma cutter.

[BufordBoone]

Having a lot of fun learning the new plasma cutter. Wish I had a steady hand.

My manual says any guide must be "non-conducting". Well, duh, that makes sense.

Do any of you have a recommendation for a straight edge or other types of guides. What materials should they be made out of?

I've done OK using a 1x4 but suspect there is a better idea out there.

Thanks.

 

[flyerdan]

It only needs to be non-conductive if you're riding the tip on it. If the head of the cutting torch is hard plastic, as I suspect most are, you can use a piece of angle iron or similar as a guide.
You still have to hold it straight as the tip won't be riding directly on the guide, but it will be a lot more accurate than freehand.
If you can find a supply of plastic yardsticks, those would work good, they will let the tip contact for maximum accuracy and will bend around curved objects.

 

[TractorGuy]

I just clamp a piece of angle or even some 1/4" flat bar on and drag against it. Doesn't have to be non conductive as long as you don't aim the fire at it.

I have one of those free magnetic rails from HF I keep meaning to try.

My first long cut was taking one leg off a 5' piece of 4x4x1/4 angle. I wanted to leave a lip on one side so I just laid the insulator down flat and pulled it along. I welded the piece with the lip onto the top of my loader bucket.

 

[dragoneggs]

I use a drag tip against a steel or aluminum straight edge (not my good ones) with no issues. My struggle is more in getting a constant speed due to the tip 'catching' the substrate making for a bit of a jerky thus not as smooth cut. For curved cuts I use plywood templates. I have no experience with a 'training wheels' holder since I don't have to space off the tip from the surface, but I imagine one could get smoother cuts if they used one.

 

[yomax4]

There is a standoff with 2 legs that are good for riding the straight edge. Also on lighter stuff you can tip the torch slightly in the opposite direction you are cutting. Makes it easier to drag but your cuts will never be perfect.

 

[tomplum]

What is a kinda neat plasma cutter accessory is a 8$ drywall square. Cheap, has measurements and easy to make custom circles w/o clamps that slip or awkward fitting tool holders. Just broach a hole that fits your drag tip, pin the center and around you go.

 

[BufordBoone]

All good info. Thanks. My torch is a Thermal Dynamics and drag cuts so that is one item out of the way.

I had a thought. For smaller pieces, what about using a paint stick as a straight edge? Cheap, plentiful and non-conductive.

I think I'll give that a try.

Thanks, to all.

 

[mikester]

I use a piece of aluminum 1x3x0.25 angle as a straight edge and get nice clean lines by clamping the flat side to the piece. I use a fine cut nozzle on my hypertherm and drag it along the aluminum edge and use the aluminum as a support for my hand. Gives me a nice clean edge with minimal grinding. Smooth and steady wins the race.

 

[TractorGuy]

I've never considered wood. I'm pretty sure it would catch fire if I tried it. My last welding project found a bunch of old towels on my cleaning cart. DOH!

 

[Al 2]

Check out this radial arm saw conversion by Rednic 79. I think it's a great idea and plan to make one similar.
YouTube

 

[BukitCase]

Not cheap, but really handy -I have one of their guides for my Hypertherm. The "chariot" wheels eliminate uneven drag due to surface roughness (uneven movement due to the OPERATOR'S coordination is another thing

Hardware threading is standardized @ 1/4-20, so pretty easy to kluge together other add-ons -

Plasma Cutting Guide | Flange Wizard

Note to DragonEggs: Yeah, you DO need one ... Steve

 

[rangerfredbob]

For small projects I have used the harbor freight magnetic tool holders since I gathered a few when they were free or cheap... just stick it to the metal, offset to where you need to be and go for it. With the steel surround around the magnets there isn't much magnetism outside of the metal, I didn't notice anything too odd and it was super easy... I don't have drag tips but used the guide thing on the cup to follow the straight edge.

 

[dragoneggs]

Check out this radial arm saw conversion by Rednic 79. I think it's a great idea and plan to make one similar.
YouTube

I saw that Youtube vid several years ago and almost did not sell my dad's old radial saw that had been collecting dust for about a decade. After several years of contemplating a poor man's CNC table, I ended up having to get rid of it to make room for new and bigger jointer. Was sad it see the 60year old Craftsman go.

Not cheap, but really handy -I have one of their guides for my Hypertherm. The "chariot" wheels eliminate uneven drag due to surface roughness (uneven movement due to the OPERATOR'S coordination is another thing

Hardware threading is standardized @ 1/4-20, so pretty easy to kluge together other add-ons -

Plasma Cutting Guide | Flange Wizard

Note to DragonEggs: Yeah, you DO need one ... Steve

Ha, ha... I started to click on the link before I read your note at the bottom! Thanks for thinking of me.

 

[yomax4]

People get pretty creative. I saw a guy using and old roller skate stripped down with hole in the center. That was his cutting guide. You can actually buy the circle/straight cutter kit from Tangent or Victor. Does bevels, straights, circles. I have the fancy set with magnets, wheels and a suction cup for aluminum.

 

[BukitCase]

Yeah, I'm definitely NOT shy about inventing/"xerox engineering" stuff, but when I bought my kit I was working up to 84 hours a week and maintaining 10 acres in my "spare time" - so I just bought this one (a couple hours of OT at the time )

Plasma Cutting Guides - plasma cutting guide w/1.7 bushing - Power Plasma Cutters - Amazon.com

(Mark, unless the 45xp ships with a different torch than my PM45 that is the EXACT one you need)

Then I took a piece of 1/4" cold rolled rod and threaded one end 1/4-20, cut it off to 6" to replace the 18" one that comes with the kit; when doing smaller than maybe 12" holes, that extra rod length just gets in the way.

I took another 3" piece of the 1/4" rod and pencil-pointed one end for when the "Z" shaped pivot point isn't needed - the "Z" IS DEFINITELY needed for holes smaller than about an inch IIRC - you offset the point TOWARD your hole, makes up for some of the hardware limiting you to how small you can go... Steve

 

[Gary Fowler]

WOW. $105 for two cutting wheels from a pipe cutter, a couple of 1/4" bolts and a 1/2" long piece of pipe.

 

[dragoneggs]

WOW. $105 for two cutting wheels from a pipe cutter, a couple of 1/4" bolts and a 1/2" long piece of pipe.

About the same dollars I sold my old radial arm saw. :mur:

 

[Gary Fowler]

Check this one out. Only $8 There is a picture on the Welding forum post 1205

 

[dragoneggs]

Check this one out. Only $8 There is a picture on the Welding forum post 1205

On the Welding Forum or TBN and which thread? Can you post the link? Never mind... found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Ro...ller+Guide+Wheel+Spacer&qid=1593784181&sr=8-2

 

[yomax4]

Awesome. This thread will inspire those in need to make their own. Oh the beauty of it.