TimberXX
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cattlefarmer89
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Could be fungus.
oldnslo
Super Member
Does the grass in those brown areas feel loose and lift up? Have you taken a shovel and carefully peeled back the sod and looked for grubs?
asjadkhan
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A few things I’ve found make a difference with stubborn spots:
If you can share whether it’s patchy growth, weed takeover, or discolored grass, it’ll be easier to pinpoint the fix. Sometimes it’s a combination of soil health + timing your overseeding and feeding right
- Soil test first – sometimes it’s not a weed or pest issue but pH or nutrient imbalance.
- Check drainage – areas that stay too wet or too dry can cause grass to thin out no matter what you plant.
- Overseed with the right grass type – match seed to your region and sun/shade conditions.
- Address underlying pests or fungus – grubs, chinch bugs, or fungal infections can keep reappearing unless treated directly.
If you can share whether it’s patchy growth, weed takeover, or discolored grass, it’ll be easier to pinpoint the fix. Sometimes it’s a combination of soil health + timing your overseeding and feeding right
OP
TimberXX
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Excellent comments guys. Not a dog, looks like Kentucky blue grass that just turned brown.
I will look online how to see if it is fungus, and check for grubs.
I will look online how to see if it is fungus, and check for grubs.
duffer
Veteran Member
Tough to tell from the pics, but to me, it looks like those dead spots are in low areas. If so, I concur with the fungus diagnosis.
One way to tell if it's grubs, is to pour a 5 gal bucket of water in one square foot and see if any come to the top of the soil. Or, take a shovel and dig down 4-6" to see if you have any in the same basic area. If you do have grubs, it's either time for another grub treatment, or change the chemical you're using. The best thing I've found is bifenthrin as the active ingredient. Haven't had grubs in over 10 years since I've been using it. Also good to prevent ants, army worms, and bunch of others.
One way to tell if it's grubs, is to pour a 5 gal bucket of water in one square foot and see if any come to the top of the soil. Or, take a shovel and dig down 4-6" to see if you have any in the same basic area. If you do have grubs, it's either time for another grub treatment, or change the chemical you're using. The best thing I've found is bifenthrin as the active ingredient. Haven't had grubs in over 10 years since I've been using it. Also good to prevent ants, army worms, and bunch of others.
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Grub damage normally appears is large patches, usually circular, like this:
One give-away is that you can often grab a tuft of grass in the damaged area, and lift it almost like a carpet, as the roots have been eaten away.
It's tough to say if that's what is happening in your photos, but we are only two or three weeks out from the ideal over-seeding window, and you can adjust your grub control application timing next year to try to knock the little bastards down. Usually, you want to aim for mid-June, just a week or two before you typically see the Japanese beetles.
Most of the better grub control products are strong enough that a twice-per year application will put you at or over the legal yearly dosage per acre. So, it's important to get the timing of the one application you're putting down right, as they only have a narrow window of vulnerability to these products.
One give-away is that you can often grab a tuft of grass in the damaged area, and lift it almost like a carpet, as the roots have been eaten away.
It's tough to say if that's what is happening in your photos, but we are only two or three weeks out from the ideal over-seeding window, and you can adjust your grub control application timing next year to try to knock the little bastards down. Usually, you want to aim for mid-June, just a week or two before you typically see the Japanese beetles.
Most of the better grub control products are strong enough that a twice-per year application will put you at or over the legal yearly dosage per acre. So, it's important to get the timing of the one application you're putting down right, as they only have a narrow window of vulnerability to these products.
RjCorazza
Elite Member
Years ago I applied a product called Milky Spore bacterial powder, after several years I have no grub damage. It takes several years to spread throughout the lawn, and I only applied it on my small maintained backyard. I believe it is very specific to Japanese Beetles and maybe June Bugs.
M59
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Like RjCorazza, I applied milky spore, see attached pics, to lawn and my japanese beetle population and resulting rose and turf damage went to zero after about two years. Takes some time for spore to spread itself through the ground and kill off the grubs. The spores stay active in the ground for many years and continuously repopulate themselves as new grubs find there way onto my property. The neighbors continually treat with insecticides but don't get the kind of control I do with no more effort than original treatment. My lawn consists of mix of tall fescue, perennial rye grass, and kentucky blue to prevent mono culture and associated issues.
ps. Looks like your grass is mix ( pic ... 352 ) is mix of fescue and kentucky blue
