Sub compact new vs used advice

[Rookie22]

Rscotty, I can not thank you enough for your replies to a complete newbie on this forum looking for advice. Your willingness to provide such detailed advice to me is awesome. I really appreciate your guidance w/ regards to my questions regarding the box blade too. This was a huge purchase for me and just want to be sure I did not make a mistake by purchasing a used unit w/ potential problems. I know absolutely nothing about tractors but that offset wheel has me a bit concerned. Hopefully all is good and it’s nothing to worry about. Thank you

 

[dicktill]

Hey there, I want to thank y’all for the advice. I pulled the trigger and went ahead and purchased the 2018 gc 1720 tlb. Quick question… as the dealer was putting the tractor on the trailer I noticed the left front tire was kinda kicked out and not on the same angle of the right front. When I brought it to their attention they expressed it was normal and not a concern. Could y’all please look at pics of the right front vs the left front and let me know if this something I should be concerned about. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Hi @Rookie22, welcome to the forum, and welcome to the Massey Ferguson GC series "group".

There is an extensive thread in the Massey Ferguson Owning/Operating sub-forum called "What have you done with/to your GC Series 2300, 2400, 1700 Tractor TODAY" which may be useful when you have the time to read it.

Regards, Dick

 

[rScotty]

Rscotty, I can not thank you enough for your replies to a complete newbie on this forum looking for advice. Your willingness to provide such detailed advice to me is awesome. I really appreciate your guidance w/ regards to my questions regarding the box blade too. This was a huge purchase for me and just want to be sure I did not make a mistake by purchasing a used unit w/ potential problems. I know absolutely nothing about tractors but that offset wheel has me a bit concerned. Hopefully all is good and it’s nothing to worry about. Thank you

You're welcome. I bet it is nothing, but lets find out exactly.

Now Be Safe. No fair turning the tractor over... or working on it with unsupported parts suspended in midair. And I hope you have somewhere flat and level.

A pair of jack stands for usine under the axle is $30 at HomeDepot, Walmart, etc....although some use a couple of sturdy blocks of wood & that is fine for most tractors - and certainly for a subcompact.

AND you will want a "front end loader lift arm cylinder safety prop" if yours does not already have one built into it as part of the loader. Some do and some don't, but all should.
Here is a photo; frankly the online price seems high but I include it to show you what it is.
You end up using that safety prop more than you think. It makes opening the hood to check and clean engine filters and such so much easier.

It is common to have a prop on only one cylinder. The prop can be a simple piece of angle iron or channel iron cut to length and a couple of straps to hold it to the extended cylinder rod. I'd say to go with something thicker than 1/8" wall iron just to be sure. If lighter, use one on both lift arm cylinders. Even a piece of strurdy lumber would be better than nothing. It does need to be strapped into place against the cylinder rod or risks popping free.
To use, raise loader to about 3/4 full height, insert prop, turn motor off, lightly feather the control to allow the loader to come down slowly until it traps the prop. Then examine what you have with a critical eye. Yes, one end of the prop often rests on the end of the cylinder...that's OK, just make it miss the seal.

Now you can examine that front end.
rScotty

 

[airbiscuit]

So, if I butterfly your pictures, are you saying the left wheel leans in with more camber? Or you talking about toe in?

 

[jyoutz]

You're welcome. I bet it is nothing, but lets find out exactly.

Now Be Safe. No fair turning the tractor over... or working on it with unsupported parts suspended in midair. And I hope you have somewhere flat and level.

A pair of jack stands for usine under the axle is $30 at HomeDepot, Walmart, etc....although some use a couple of sturdy blocks of wood & that is fine for most tractors - and certainly for a subcompact.

AND you will want a "front end loader lift arm cylinder safety prop" if yours does not already have one built into it as part of the loader. Some do and some don't, but all should.
Here is a photo; frankly the online price seems high but I include it to show you what it is.
You end up using that safety prop more than you think. It makes opening the hood to check and clean engine filters and such so much easier.

It is common to have a prop on only one cylinder. The prop can be a simple piece of angle iron or channel iron cut to length and a couple of straps to hold it to the extended cylinder rod. I'd say to go with something thicker than 1/8" wall iron just to be sure. If lighter, use one on both lift arm cylinders. Even a piece of strurdy lumber would be better than nothing. It does need to be strapped into place against the cylinder rod or risks popping free.
To use, raise loader to about 3/4 full height, insert prop, turn motor off, lightly feather the control to allow the loader to come down slowly until it traps the prop. Then examine what you have with a critical eye. Yes, one end of the prop often rests on the end of the cylinder...that's OK, just make it miss the seal.

Now you can examine that front end.
rScotty

The lii of deer prop is a good idea if you don’t have a shop with a substantial truss. I simply chain my loader bucket and arms to the shop roof truss.

 

[Williy]

Here's some problems and how to fix

2018 gc tractor 1720eb problems - Google Search

willy

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I dont see the difference. The photos were taken from different positions, angles. Park it on a level surface. Lift the loader out of the way, and look at it directly head on.
Like I've said. MAJOR damage would have to occur to CASTINGS to cause an actual issue.
This isnt the first time this question has been posted, and in each case, it was an illusion. You can't expect them to look the same, while taking a photo from two different angles

 

[IndyIan]

The lii of deer prop is a good idea if you don’t have a shop with a substantial truss. I simply chain my loader bucket and arms to the shop roof truss.

Do you back out of your shop? I could see myself driving away and the roof caving in behind me!

 

[jyoutz]

Do you back out of your shop? I could see myself driving away and the roof caving in behind me!

I do, but the raised bucket is enough notice for me to remove chains and lower the bucket after working on it.

 

[Rookie22]

I dont see the difference. The photos were taken from different positions, angles. Park it on a level surface. Lift the loader out of the way, and look at it directly head on.
Like I've said. MAJOR damage would have to occur to CASTINGS to cause an actual issue.
This isnt the first time this question has been posted, and in each case, it was an illusion. You can't expect them to look the same, while taking a photo from two different angles

Appreciate your advice. Thank you for reply