Subfloor Question

   / Subfloor Question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
All structural subfloor panels have a span index rating stamped on each sheet. Don't know if your coated panels do but you are going to have to come up with it for the architect, structural engineer and the good old building department.

I looked for a stamp but there was none. Since there is no stamp, I guess I can use the rating from the link in my first post. My joist spacing will be 24" OC so this should be overkill.

As per your I-Joist manufacturer, you will need to use an adhesive to set the panels to the joist. If adhesive bonding becomes a problem, look into marine adhesives as some of them are designed to work on wood and plastic.

I will call the panel manufacturer and see what they reccomend.

You said that ALL FOUR edges are T&G. Do you know if the panels are scant or full face? If they are scant face, they will quickly put a hurt on your I-Joist layout and in the end not fall properly on an end run designed for a multiple of four feet.

Some of the panels they had were grooved on all edges with splines for the ends. All the ones I picked up were T&G 2 sides only. The panels are full 4' x 8', not including the tongues. Thickness is a full 1-1/4". Only 1-1/8" of that is ply. These were uninstalled from a warehouse mezzanine that was heavy duty construction.

I ended up with 110 sheets for $1500.00. After seeing them, I believe the seller was truthful about the 100.00 retail price for each.

See if I can post some pics.
First one is warehouse where picked up. Next are the materials.
IMG_72523-1.jpg
[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

Maybe it will work.

TW
 
   / Subfloor Question
  • Thread Starter
#13  
As far as counter sinking the fasteners, there is a screw made that counter sinks itself.

This was used material, so picking it up, I noticed all holes are already pre-drilled and countersunk at just the OC spacing I need.
Works for me!
TW
 
   / Subfloor Question #14  
Looks to me like you got a great deal. Those panels will make a very sturdy sub-floor. As a hardwood flooring contractor I would not hesitate to install flooring that is designed to nail down on them. We normally use 15lbs roofing felt as a layer between the subfloor and the wood floor.

MarkV
 
   / Subfloor Question
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Looks to me like you got a great deal. Those panels will make a very sturdy sub-floor. As a hardwood flooring contractor I would not hesitate to install flooring that is designed to nail down on them. We normally use 15lbs roofing felt as a layer between the subfloor and the wood floor.

MarkV
Thanks MakV,
15lb felt then.
I am thinking a handscraped oak maybe.
Would you buy a factory *handscraped* or just buy unfinshed (maybe reclaimed) and have it scraped and finished on-site?
I guess price would have to enter into it.

Any preference for engineered or solid etc.?

I have never looked close at the factory vesion, just the done on-site type.

Thanks, TW
 
   / Subfloor Question #16  
I greatly prefer solid wood flooring over the laminated engineered flooring. When you look at engineered flooring you will see the finish wood layer is very thin. Generally engineered flooring is prefinished at the factory and when the day comes that it needs to be refinished you might be able to sand it one time.

The "handscraped" finishing you talk about we don't see around here. It is the way hardwood floors were first finished in the old days. It would strike me as extremely labor intensive and there for expensive. Our floors are sanded three times, stained if desired and finished with three coats of polyurethane.

MarkV
 

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