Subsoiler help

   / Subsoiler help #1  

Kodiak45

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
328
Location
SC
Tractor
long 2460 - belarus 250 - JD 4230 - Kioti DK40SE
I have a single shank subsoiler and I can't get this thing to penetrate more than 8 inches. I've tried every top link angle I can think of. I thought it was supposed to pull itself deeper. Is there a trick to using this thing? Is weight needed? The point doesn't look that worn out.
 
   / Subsoiler help #2  
depending on how hard rge soil is extra weight may be required. On my having the main beam about vertical usually gives the best performance. I also add two 100 lb weights when the soil is real dry & hard
 
   / Subsoiler help #3  
You do need to have the point at a small angle downward when the point is on the ground. What it sounds like is your ground is extremely hard. Hard soil is a good thing but it can be to hard and you might need to make multiple passes.
 
   / Subsoiler help
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Ok. It probably is hard ground. I tried it on ground that hasn't seen a plow in 50 years or ever. I'll try it in the field on some plowed ground and see. I was hoping to run some security camera lines with it, but it might be too much trouble and worth renting a trencher.
 
   / Subsoiler help #5  
Do you have a couple pictures to show the setup you have? If you have a small tractor and the hitch pins are higher up on the frame of the ripper, it is harder to operate deeper. As well, you need horsepower to pull the thing into the ground. Too little HP and the thing just wants to skim the ground or only go in a few inches. Extra weight will help but you still need the HP to get penetration. Show a picture.
 
   / Subsoiler help
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I had a video somewhere. I'll look for it.
 
   / Subsoiler help #7  
The Lower Links on your Three Point Hitch are raised and lowered by Lifting Rods on the right and left sides.

At the bottom of each Lifting Rod there is a stirrup, which has two adjusting holes on the right stirrup and three adjusting holes on the left stirrup.

See if the lower hole has been selected which allows your subsoiler to start deeper in its default position. This is a pin adjustment. Changing holes will make about 4" difference to subsoiler penetration.

Photo: Pins/Ring Cotters secure stirrups in lowest position to allow Dethatcher max down pressure.
 

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   / Subsoiler help #8  
Do you have draft control on your tractor, it can make a difference. I can bury mine as far as the link arms will drop, use the draft control to keep at a certain level.

Ronnie
 
   / Subsoiler help #9  
The Lower Links on your Three Point Hitch are raised and lowered by Lifting Rods on the right and left sides.

At the bottom of each Lifting Rod there is a stirrup, which has two adjusting holes on the right stirrup and three adjusting holes on the left stirrup.

See if the lower hole has been selected which allows your subsoiler to start deeper in its default position. This is a pin adjustment. Changing holes will make about 4" difference to subsoiler penetration.

Photo: Pins/Ring Cotters secure stirrups in lowest position to allow Dethatcher max down pressure.

Great advice jeff.
We've ran into this plenty of times, most often with post hole diggers.
The lift arms/rods are frequently sent from the factory in the uppermost or lowermost positions.
Travis
 
   / Subsoiler help #10  
I have a single shank subsoiler and I can't get this thing to penetrate more than 8 inches. I've tried every top link angle I can think of. I thought it was supposed to pull itself deeper. Is there a trick to using this thing? Is weight needed? The point doesn't look that worn out.

There are different kinds of subsoiler. The parabolic shank subsoiler has less drag than a straight shank subsoiler, so with a given amount of available HP, the parabolic design will generally pull itself deeper than the straight shank.

Google "parabolic shank subsoiler" for more info

Good luck
 
   / Subsoiler help #11  
Just another note. Mine is a Fred Cain and when it bits it will sink to the full depth and stay there. The only time I have any issues is when I find a large rock then it will bring my tractor to a complete stop and I spin tires.
 
   / Subsoiler help
  • Thread Starter
#12  
uploadfromtaptalk1457875446255.jpg might be hard to tell but it's sunk almost to the crossbar. The trick was just getting the right angle and fine tuning over and over. I'm glad I gave it another shot.
 
   / Subsoiler help #13  
Which of your tractors has the Three Point Hitch in the photo? What year of production?

Obviously, no stirrups on the Lifting Rods.
 
   / Subsoiler help
  • Thread Starter
#14  
That's my jd 4230. uploadfromtaptalk1457883601242.jpg
 
   / Subsoiler help
  • Thread Starter
#15  
1972 I believe
 
   / Subsoiler help #16  
This is one of those items my hydraulic toplink is so good for. My KK subsoiler is very sensitive to the angle for penetration - too far either way and it won't dig well even in softer ground. My toplink allows me to tweek the angle on the go, which by the way is very slow - I use 1st or 2nd gear at slower engine speed as well to use the plow and it has worked fantastic in many different applications. It's great for burying wire or flexible pipe. Toplink angle is so important on boxblade work, tiller work or plowing - I can't imagine having to make manual adjustments to use these implements to their fullest.
 
   / Subsoiler help
  • Thread Starter
#17  
That's already on my next ag supply order
 

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