Suggestions for ROPS lights

Speedy7 · Nov 4, 2005

Open to suggestions for best way to mount a couple of lights on the ROPS without drilling holes. I've seen solutions that utilized C-clamps that clamps a bar with the lights onto it. Would love to see other elegant solutions that members here have improvised. Pictures appreciated. Thanks!

ronjhall · Nov 4, 2005

I mounted 4 fog type lights to my ROP's using aluminum plates. I guess you would call them clamp on. Click Here

Sully2 · Nov 4, 2005

Im drilling mine. Nothing looks as neat and clean as "hidden" wiring...and if 4-6 1/4 inch holes in that ROPS destroys its integrity...then it wasnt made worth Jack Squat to begin with!

JerryG · Nov 4, 2005

Clamps like Rons or U-bolts are the easiest.

Av8r3400 · Nov 4, 2005

Like THIS . I've taken some flack, but the install is clean, SAFE and doesn't look cobbled. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I used to build ROPS units for C-NH at a machine shop where I worked and I feel completely safe with the modification I did.

Ed_L295DT · Nov 4, 2005

If you drill your ROPS you may as well discard the ROPS as ANY modification voids ANY manufacturer's warranty.

Sully2 · Nov 4, 2005

( If you drill your ROPS you may as well discard the ROPS as ANY modification voids ANY manufacturer's warranty. )

I didnt buy it for the warranty! I bought it to protect my "gourd" in case Im dumb enough to be in an accident! A few , SMALL holes wont affect its INTEGRETY...and thats all Im worried about.

Sully2 · Nov 4, 2005

( Like THIS . I've taken some flack, but the install is clean, SAFE and doesn't look cobbled. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I used to build ROPS units for C-NH at a machine shop where I worked and I feel completely safe with the modification I did. )

You've got it my man..dead on... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Mike_C · Nov 5, 2005

I prefer welding. I also don't care about the warranty on the ROPS. I also believe mine is safer now with the extra metal, as it would slow the fall in a rollover. The smaller pieces of metal will bend and absorb energy before the main rops takes all the force.
My lighting project is on this web page

WayneW · Nov 5, 2005

I put mine on the side of my B7610. Got some magnetic light mounts fromt Tractor Supply Co. (the round yellow ones) and stuck them to either side of the ROPS right on the hidge bracket where it folds. The wiring was already there (a +12V under the seat) so all I had to do was drill a hole on the fender (the black plastic where the 4wd and 3pt handles are) for a toggle switch. All works fine and they are easy to remove when I go into the woods. (I put quick connects on the wires near the lights)

Wanna add a rear light and 2 more on top of the front guard also.

good luck

Freds · Nov 5, 2005

Here's a lighting post with all kinds of ideas and some pics of how I mounted my lights. I think it will go to page four... that's where my pics are.

light ideas

Speedy7 · Nov 5, 2005

Thanks for all the suggestions! I think for my purposes, which is just for night-time snow removal, I will just use the 2" magnetic mount on the ROPS, with lights plugged into a 12V power outlet (which I want to add anyway). This way, I can remove it when not in use.

radair · Nov 6, 2005

( If you drill your ROPS you may as well discard the ROPS as ANY modification voids ANY manufacturer's warranty. )

You're joking, right? The warranty is not what protects you in a rollover, the steel is.

I'm a structural engineer and would not hesitate to drill small holes in the ROPS for lights.

Sully2 · Nov 6, 2005

( If you drill your ROPS you may as well discard the ROPS as ANY modification voids ANY manufacturer's warranty.

You're joking, right? The warranty is not what protects you in a rollover, the steel is.

I'm a structural engineer and would not hesitate to drill small holes in the ROPS for lights.
I agree 100%. Kubota says that to keep their "rumps" covered because you KNOW that if they say drilling it is A-OK...that some jerk-wad is going to go after it with a 1 1/2" hole saw and "swiss cheese" it to death.

Av8r3400 · Nov 6, 2005

Item number 344,872,880 of how lawyers are ruining your life.

KCinBr · Nov 7, 2005

I mounted mine with square "u" bolts from Tractor supply. Also used the existing wiring.

I'll post pics when I get home

dougj7 · Nov 7, 2005

Just finished a simple light bar on my b2630. Constructed with 1 peice of white plastic plumbing pipe, 2 toggle switches, 3 Grote rubber work lights rated at 35 watts/ 2.7 amps each, and some tie wraps. No drilling on tractor required. One toggle switch turns on the front lights, the other does the rear light. -Doug

Speedy7 · Nov 7, 2005

Speaking of connections, is there any existing wiring that could be used on a BX23 for lights? I hear of an existing 12V connector under the seat of some other tractors. I don't have the shop manual yet, but in the engine compartment, there is an unused socket coming out of the wiring loom, around the top of the engine. What is that for?

ccsial · Nov 7, 2005

Call me extravagent but I bought Kubota lights. They come with nifty painted brakets and square U bolts so no drilling is required. They also have a switch on them which is nice since the spare wiring for external lights is hot when the key is on rather than with the light switch. I thought that a bit odd.

Av8r3400 · Nov 7, 2005

Under the seat there are two blank "pigtails" which are ignition-on 12 volt leads. I used this 12 volt source for power and spliced into the tail light lead for the switch side of the relay. So, when I turn on the "headlights" my work lights come on too. They also go off if I turn off the ignition switch.

See where I mounted my relay on my website in the previous post.