Swale filling

DJ54 · Nov 6, 2019

You could pour your own catch basin to desired specs. Run 18" or so stubs of 4" or 6" perforated pipe out the sides, through the catch basin walls, near the flow line of the driveway pipe. Shape the dirt where the stubs come out, to direct it to those short pipes. Then fill in around the catch basin with something like #4 limestone for the water to perk down through. Top it off with the size stone to match that in your driveway. But something like 4's should stay in place, once locked together, and not scoot around

Catch basin lid can be made from something like 2", 2-1/2" X 1/4" angle iron, sized for one lip to drop down in, while to other lip sets on top of the catch basin. Cross pieces can be made from suitable square bar stock.

I'd probably pour the floor of the catch basin 8" to 12" below the invert of the pipe, to catch sediment,as a clean out, but that's me. A layer, or surround those stub pieces of drain pipe with a geotech type material to keep sediment from plugging them. I've used the heaviest landscaping fabric I could find, to do this. And 10 years later, it's still working great. Years ago before such fabrics were made, straw was used here for that type of barrier. As long as the sun, or air doesn't get to it, it will last a long time.

A lot would depend on what you can build yourself, as far as being cost prohibitive.

bigtiller · Nov 6, 2019

I am with aczlan, it will be much easier to extend the culvert and drive over it rather than on a homemade catch basin lid.

Haneyman · Nov 6, 2019

Lotsa GREAT ideas here.
I knew the brain trust here would help me!
Thanks,Mike

EddieWalker · Nov 7, 2019

To fill the low area, you will need rock big enough not to move when you have a heavy rain. The rock will hold the dirt and then grass will grow. I personally like to use brick and busted up cinder blocks and concrete for this. I just dump as much into it and let Mother Nature fill up the voids with dirt. In a year or so I can't even find where those areas are on my place.

jaxs · Nov 7, 2019

I don't follow the need for stone and water to"perk",why not just alow it to flow through grate into basin. I vote for poured concrete with shop built grate(s) that can be lifted off to remove dirt and debris. What you describe (if you can find it) will require a concrete surround anyhow if you plan driving across it.

3Ts · Nov 7, 2019

I think you're looking for something like this. I do know there are square ones and should be available thru amazon - just have to figure out the search criteria. You'll find references to "H10" for light trucks so you may want to look for that as well.
Drain Grate

Edit: Fixed the label from "Robot Check" to "Drain Grate" - I've no idea how that label got applied.

Alan W. · Nov 8, 2019

Find a supplier like Sherman-Dixie and get a drop box with grate and a bag of speedcrete.
You knock a hole in the side to match your pipe at the elevation you want your grate to be. Then you grout the pipe to the box and use the rest of the bag to pour an invert in the bottom of the box. Very strong and will last.

aczlan · Nov 8, 2019

I am still trying to understand why you want to put a grate in there.
What do you hope to gain vs extending the culvert out another 6-10 feet and covering it?
Yes, you will need to fill it in lifts and have it slope down away from the road, but a precast box with a grate will need that as well and will cost a lot more.

Aaron Z