Synthetic Rotella

SkyPup · Sep 28, 2004

Generally oil sludge is derived from excessive moisture in the crankcase, especially when mixed in with combustion by-products, including inorganic acids.

All oils will form sludge under these conditions, both synthetic and non-synthetic. although synthetic will last longer under similar conditions.

A major contributor to oil composition breakdown is excessive heat, which synthetic oils can resist better than nonsynthetic.

BTW, most high grade API diesel certifed engine oils are BETTER than similar gasoline engine oils since diesel engine oil have different additives to keep combustion byproducts in suspension and not in contact with the structural components.

We've been using Shell Synthetic Rotella 5W-40 in my Chevy 350 V-8 pickmeup and our old Massey 1030 tractor ever since it came out, prior to that was using the old dino Shell Rotella 5W-40.

Here are the API specs on the Shell Rotella T 5-40 Full Synthetic:

http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/RotellaTSynthetic.pdf

Dargo · Sep 28, 2004

mhalla, PM me and I will give you more specific factual details. As for posted advice, it is well worth the extra expense to use synthetic oil in your 2.7. If so, it is a good engine and should serve you well. I don't want to spark any debate (mainly because if someone wants to go against factory engineers' new findings, consumer alert groups, and item specific large data actuarial facts, that is their business...sort of like smoking; it's bad for you, but I'm not going to tell you not to do it). /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

mhalla · Sep 28, 2004

Wow. After seeing all the hits on Google about sludge problems with Chrysler's 2.7 engine I am ready to go car shopping and trade my 2001 Stratus in tomorrow before it is too late. Unfortunately I should have done that last month before the recent spike in media reports about the problem. Bet I won't get as much on a trade-in this month as I could have a couple of months ago.

Looks like it should be worth $6800 on a trade-in according to Edmunds.

Mike

Dargo · Sep 28, 2004

I just happen to know the owner of the 4th largest Dodge dealership in the country rather well. Most large Dodge dealerships now have a machine that hooks onto where your oil filter goes and "flushes" out your engine. I'd advise having that done, then run synthetic in it and don't worry. Without the flush, you have a pickup screen that can easily become clogged with the first signs of sludging, and that begins the drop in oil flow. The flush will clear that.

Hey, on most new BMW and Mercedes and Volvo vehicles, you will void your factory warranty if you do not use synthetic oil. But, nah, this sludge stuff is just a bunch of bunk... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

WilliamBos · Sep 28, 2004

Hi,

Ok while we have evryones attention, I will post this here.

We are in the process of rebuilding a Perkins A3.152 diesle for our MF 35. I was going to run Shell Rotella T 30W. The manula calls for ( DG I think ) a HIGH DETERGENT oil to prevent varnish and sludge build up. Will Rotella Synthetic offer these same qualites?

Thanks

Will

banjobj · Sep 28, 2004

Dargo, Has Saturn had a problem also.

Dargo · Sep 28, 2004

banjobj, I've been warned by my legal staff abou giving out too much information that will soon go into the U.
S. legal system. In other words, I am not allowd to answer your question.
I'll just suggest to begin using synthetic. At absolute worse, you may have wasted a couple of bucks on each oil change. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

cp1969 · Sep 28, 2004

( Most large Dodge dealerships now have a machine that hooks onto where your oil filter goes and "flushes" out your engine. I'd advise having that done, then run synthetic in it and don't worry. )

About the only thing that will flush is your wallet. There is no way that running a solvent through the oil passages would get very much (let alone all) of any kind of solid deposits out of an engine.

( Hey, on most new BMW and Mercedes and Volvo vehicles, you will void your factory warranty if you do not use synthetic oil. But, nah, this sludge stuff is just a bunch of bunk... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif )

What that says to me that if they will void your warranty for not using synthetic, they must have marginal lubrication systems. Buyer beware. As far as this sludge stuff being a bunch of bunk...from my personal experience, it is. Haven't seen any since the '70's and I've had a number of engines apart (no Dodge 2.7's, though). I am always pleasantly surprised at how clean the interior of engines are using today's dino oil. Again, YMMV.

BRIGUY · Sep 28, 2004

mhalla
Don't sell your car. Just keep the oil changed!!! Preferably with synthetic. If not change early with dino if the car sees stop and go driving.

Lets not start a panic here. IMHO chrysler products are great. I have several. Including one with a 3.0L V/6 and an A604 (This combo had a lot of warranty issues) I rebuilt the tranny with current updates 100k ago still perfect. I performed the updates on the heads 50k ago, runs perfect with 150k. My others have never been apart. My oil analysis results from Blackstone have been Excellent.

If you are that concerned drop the pan, maybe a valve cover and inspect. I think the pan will be easier. (I haven't had a 2.7 apart)

Better yet, rent or borrow a borescope. This will only add 15 minutes to your next oil change, and provide you with piece of mind.

cp1969

( About the only thing that will flush is your wallet. There is no way that running a solvent through the oil passages would get very much (let alone all) of any kind of solid deposits out of an engine. ) 

I don't know where the sludge is forming but I would think it was on the return side??? Oil is moving too fast on the pressure side to sludge. Plus how could the sludge be getting through the bearings. Wouldn't the oil feeds be plugged solid causing failure rather than the sludge in the pan and a plugged pick up causing the starvation that has been described.

You commented that the sludge looked soft. then you commented that A flush could not remove hard deposits????

If the slugde is in fact forming in the return side and in the pan, then I believe that the flush would work well. Plus I think this would be A Warranty issue. Chrysler would rather pay for a flush than a motor.

Dargo · Sep 29, 2004

cp1969:
Oh well, I had three more nice sludge pics that came across my desk today; one of a 3800 GM engine, one of a 5.4 liter Ford and a 3.0 liter Toyota. I figured that there was no use posting them. Since I posted pics before and you didn't believe them, the factories endorse the flush systems, and more and more brands are requiring synthetic oil; I just thought you would figure that I'm just wanting to sell synthetic oil. By the way, I don't sell oil and obviously you are free to use crude if it works for you. Apparently facts, statistics, pictures, and inside industry articles are not to be believed by you. It is interesting that today I spoke with a guy who owned a muffler shop who is totally convinced that the U.S. government rammed the planes into the twin towers just to give them a reason to go to war. He really believes that in spite of all of the facts, pictures, interviews, and publications. Some people are simply not subject to logic nor reasoning. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Have a good 'un! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif