T&T - Which T more useful?

MadReferee · Jun 5, 2006

( As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS )

Why don't you ask in the JD Owning/Operating forum. I know there are people there who have done what you want to do on their JD's.

MadReferee · Jun 5, 2006

( As you folks have read I have been doing some research on T&T. I need to know if anyone out there has a John Deere factory setup for T&T. I have contacted JD and they are no help. I want to see the items for the stock set up since it is supposed to divert the hydraulics to use the loader joystick. I would like to see where the electric switch is located, the valve body location, he diverter valve location, and the size of the cylinders that they are using. If someone has this setup please post some pictures or send them to my mailbox. TKS )

Why don't you ask in the JD Owning/Operating forum. I know there are people there who have done what you want to do on their JD's.

DiskDoctr · Jun 8, 2006

Henro,

Howdy! It's been a while.

I DEFINITELY wouldn't own another tractor without a hydraulic top link.

For the Box Blade, it is a must! Retract link= dig teeth and blade. Extend link= skim or spread surface (gives almost a "fence drag" result- really nice!)

Top link is also helpful changing implements using the quick hitch. Extend link to get top hook under implement, retract link and lift and viola!

Good also for load/unload trailer when sometimes I need just a little more lift on the longer implements to clear the ground.

I also use it for the finish mower. When mowing over questionable ground (maybe rocks, dirt, etc), I keep the top link loose enough to let the mower ride level, but tight enough to keep slack out of the link. This give immediate response to 3ph lift, saving the blades.

That being said, I put in a large local parking lot this week and sure could have used the tilt. They called me in a pinch because they weren't equipped to handle that much modified gravel.

By the time I got there, there were little piles spread out everywhere. Took some time, and as I used the FEL to push the tops off the piles and drove over them to use the BB, I found more than once that if I had a TILT, I could have leveled more, faster.

Without the tilt, I had to drag the pile sideways towards the low spots, then drag lengthwise to level. With a tilt, I could have stayed lengthwise and tilted the BB, much faster results.

STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon.

This was long, but maybe gives some ideas as well as opinion.

As always, you ask the good questions...

-JC

DiskDoctr · Jun 8, 2006

Henro,

Howdy! It's been a while.

I DEFINITELY wouldn't own another tractor without a hydraulic top link.

For the Box Blade, it is a must! Retract link= dig teeth and blade. Extend link= skim or spread surface (gives almost a "fence drag" result- really nice!)

Top link is also helpful changing implements using the quick hitch. Extend link to get top hook under implement, retract link and lift and viola!

Good also for load/unload trailer when sometimes I need just a little more lift on the longer implements to clear the ground.

I also use it for the finish mower. When mowing over questionable ground (maybe rocks, dirt, etc), I keep the top link loose enough to let the mower ride level, but tight enough to keep slack out of the link. This give immediate response to 3ph lift, saving the blades.

That being said, I put in a large local parking lot this week and sure could have used the tilt. They called me in a pinch because they weren't equipped to handle that much modified gravel.

By the time I got there, there were little piles spread out everywhere. Took some time, and as I used the FEL to push the tops off the piles and drove over them to use the BB, I found more than once that if I had a TILT, I could have leveled more, faster.

Without the tilt, I had to drag the pile sideways towards the low spots, then drag lengthwise to level. With a tilt, I could have stayed lengthwise and tilted the BB, much faster results.

STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon.

This was long, but maybe gives some ideas as well as opinion.

As always, you ask the good questions...

-JC

_RaT_ · Jun 10, 2006

STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon. 

Thats why I just started off with a 3 spool setup. One for the top link, one for the tilt and the 3rd can run my hydraulic rippers or all 3 hydraulic functions on my Harley rake with the simple flip of a electric switch.

_RaT_ · Jun 10, 2006

STRONGLY considering Tilt, but have to add diverter and...well, guess could use same hydraulic lever, so maybe do it soon. 

Thats why I just started off with a 3 spool setup. One for the top link, one for the tilt and the 3rd can run my hydraulic rippers or all 3 hydraulic functions on my Harley rake with the simple flip of a electric switch.