T6 FEL Question

[Matt W]

Will your front bucket preform two movements at the same time? I was just moving the gravel back up from the heavy rain we had last night, with new to me T6. Found out when in float the bucket will move to dump but not roll back. More experimenting shows it doesn't seem to want to curl going up or dump when moving down. My old T5 was great at multi tasking. While back dragging the bucket was quickly responsive and allowed rolling back as a pile was being finished out smooth in float. As I approached my dump trailer I could be dumping and lowering at the same time and the reverse as backing away, quick and nimble. The valve on the T6 is buried behind a bunch of hydraulic lines and a handful of electrical wires as well as covered in new grease. So I can't see what is happening enough to figure it out. The main question is this beast designed this way or might it have a linkage issue? I would hate to start moving lines and wires to find out it's meant to be clumsy. A friend had a Yanmar with FEL that by design would only make one movement at a time and I hated it.
Thanks!

 

[Matt W]

Used an inspection camera and found no foreign objects blocking movement. So I guess I'll tear into it later. Any Voice of experience would be appreciated.

 

[agjones]

It's normal in float to lose a function since you're essentially locking one oil path open.

When not in float it depends on the valve.

I'll check my T6 this week, but I think both fel functions at the same time.

It's not likely a linkage problem if you can otherwise operate both spools.

 

[Matt W]

I got into it this afternoon. Best access is to remove the plate that has the warning lights and switch. At least then it can be seen. It's a two valve set up, one sits directly in front of the handle lift/lower and the roll/curl is beside the handle operated by the side to side movement of the knob, and by my evaluation should work as I had hoped. Best I could tell the linkage was binding to the roll/curl spool. The binding seemed worse the further forward the handle is pushed. I failed to get the handle to valve linkage completely out but did free it enough to work I think, even in float. Can't test until I repair the old brittle wires and ignition switch that were broken during the process. Here is a photo of the problem area. I could not remove the bent rod from the spool. Too tight to heat or hammer in the space. Afraid of damaging the spool anyway. It might free up more as it's used. What is the correct name of the ball joint link? The nut is off in this photo.

And just for reference here is the lift and drop valve. It works fine the white is just spray grease.

 

[agjones]

Ball stud? Not sure.

There's plenty to bind on in there!

 

[Matt W]

Back working but it is taking too much pressure to make it curl back while in float. Seems to be working as it should from neutral position. Covered in penetrating oil, then more spray grease. Will give it a chance to free up on its own before going back in for more invasive surgery. Hope I don't break the handle before then.

 

[Matt W]

Ok guys, I made a tool to press the linkage out of the spool valve. No joy! Any of the great minds here have an idea? I have about all the pressure I can squeeze on the vice grips. Bending the fork on the left side of the photo.

 

[Dart1917]

That's a neat idea with the vise grips. If you can get at the right side with a punch while it's under pressure and give it a few good taps it might break loose. You might have to remove the nut from the end of the handle and try moving the handle back to change the angle on the ball joint. here's a pic of the whole assembly out
of the tractor-

 

[Matt W]

Thanks Dart. I did do a little tapping while my press was in place. Afraid to really drive on it, might break the top off the spool. Right now it's back together because the machine is usable and I have a paying job in a day or two. Right now I'm thinking about cutting the bent link in order to drill it out? It's the same as welded in, I had a lot of pressure on it and the tapping never moved it one thousandth. Even heated the top with a small torch as much as I dared. And tapped on the rod above the clamp to induce turning in the hole, no movement. The bent threaded rod would be easily reproduced. As is I can't even get the whole assembly out as you have pictured because the handle isn't removable with the linkage in place. Do you know how the spool comes out?

Looks like you had a broken handle? The one on my old T5 broke but I think I welded it without removal, maybe, it's been a long time.

 

[Dart1917]

There is an internal snap ring in the bottom of the spool that holds a flat plug in place. When you remove that the spool can slide down and if I remember right there is a c clip that holds the centering spring and retainer to the bottom end of the spool. Remove that and the spool should come out the top. bad news is I don't think it can be done in the tractor cause the bottom end is sticking through that shelf behind the dash. I'd keep trying oil, heat, pressure and tapping for a bit before cutting it off.
Yeah, the handle was broke at the bend, I made a new one out of heavier rod turned down on the ends where it fit through the pivot and for the knob to thread on.
A pic of the bottom of the valve-