Tailwheel vs impact gun

[Giles]

Well so far its brushhog tail wheel 1 and craftsman impact wrench zero.

I had to replace my bolts that hold the tailwheel onto the hub of my brushhog, however i think ive burned out my 1+ y.o.craftsman impact wrench trying to drive in 3 bolts. I think the thread angles were different so they were being contancerous ( sp?).

Anyone have any advice on a good impact wrench? Mine just blows out the bypass and doesnt spin. I added some machine oil, adjusted the pressure to spec, but still nothing.

Some time back, I got tired of paying good money for a name brand tool only to find out they are now foreign made. I have since bought several power tools, off eBay and local Pawn Stores, that were American, German, or Japanese manufactured. I have not had a single failure.
I would rather have a well worn quality tool then a new China tool.
Too years ago, I bought a 1/2" Crapsman hammer drill and Sears has replaced it THREE times!! The first drill failed after drilling TWO 1/2" holes through two cement blocks! Yes ----Made in China!!!

 

[Bird]

Giles, 5 years ago I needed a half inch drill; just a simple reversible variable speed drill. I went to Sears and they had one on display at a reasonable price, but none on the shelf. The salesman looked on the computer and it showed a couple in stock, so he went to the stock room to get one. He came back, checked on the computer again, went back to stock room, came back and said they could not find any of them. I told him I wondered whether the next closest Sears might have one and he offered to call and ask, and did so. That store couldn't find one in stock either. About that time, a manager walked up and asked, "What's the problem?" When the salesman told him, the manager asked me if I'd be satisfied with a higher priced hammer drill for the price of the cheaper drill, and I readily agreed. Now I don't use it a lot, but when I have used it, it's worked just fine and still is like new. And yes, it's make in China.

 

[Soundguy]

Some time back, I got tired of paying good money for a name brand tool only to find out they are now foreign made. I have since bought several power tools, off eBay and local Pawn Stores, that were American, German, or Japanese manufactured. I have not had a single failure.
I would rather have a well worn quality tool then a new China tool.
Too years ago, I bought a 1/2" Crapsman hammer drill and Sears has replaced it THREE times!! The first drill failed after drilling TWO 1/2" holes through two cement blocks! Yes ----Made in China!!!

there is a big difference in some hammer drills and rotary hammer drills. we needed one at work.. ran to lowes.. got one.. took the wimpy thing back..

 

[the old grind]

Perhaps someone else has already answered, but in case:

Your impact is suffering from stuck air vanes. Doesn't take much! A little gummed up lube, grit or rust and air won't spin them free. Try a lot of rust penetrant and let it soak. Might tap the housing a few times and try again. If it doesn't eventually loosen up then it will need to be disassembled. Most likely all you will need is to free the vanes and reassemble. A parts diagram should add some confidence, but it's not that big a deal.

2-3 drops of oil and a quick "burp!" of air before you store it might prevent the vanes from seizing again....Dennis T

Yup! P-Blaster, Kroil, or Gibbs should help to free up those vanes after a soak. Marvel Mystery Oil is my #1 during use or when putting away. Forget the air & trigger while soaking, just hold inverted and turn the anvil by hand to spread oil around a bit. Daily users can appreciate the finer gear, but storage or tank moisture will befuddle the rest of us in the clinch. Varying opinions here, but no bad info. Put 'em away wet, and worry less.

btw: most black greases contain graphite vs pricier moly unless specified, but are as good in most uses. Anti-sieze those rusty bolt threads when removing nuts to minimize lock-ups and broken bolts. Don't use impacts on SS nuts/bolts dry (marine use, etc), they 'lock' all too easily from friction heat...

 

[RxRatedZ71]

I was in Lowes the other day and they had a Kobalt 3/8" vs 1/2" priced at $49 vs $29... yes cheaper for the 1/2. I havent had much experience with their Kobalt brand though. The IR was 500 ft# and $149 but came in a kit w/ ratchet which i don't need. They have an IR on their site for $89, which seems a good buy, judging by everyone's general consensus.

 

[hgl1tbn]

If you need it more than 3 times a year then spring for a semi decent one and you won't be disappointed. If you need it more than that spring for a good used one from a pawn shop or used tool place. Of course it is the same as all you other tools the cheaper the tool the more likely it will fail when you need it most. Add to that once you have 1 then you will find you use it wwwwaaaayyyy more than you had planned. So choose carefully.
I have Craftsman wrenches / sockets / screwdrivers and more I used for over 30 years daily and they hardly ever broke but did wear out. When it came to some of my other tools Mac and Snap-On were the primary choice but just because of good choices I seemed to have good luck with most of my tools.
I purchased a used CP734A (the American made one) over 40 years ago and is my single most used tool even to this day.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well so far its brushhog tail wheel 1 and craftsman impact wrench zero.

I had to replace my bolts that hold the tailwheel onto the hub of my brushhog, however i think ive burned out my 1+ y.o.craftsman impact wrench trying to drive in 3 bolts. I think the thread angles were different so they were being contancerous ( sp?).

Anyone have any advice on a good impact wrench? Mine just blows out the bypass and doesnt spin. I added some machine oil, adjusted the pressure to spec, but still nothing.

Sounds like a lubrication problem with that gun, leaving the vanes in the air motor stuck a bit -- doesnt take much. Have you been feeding it a few drops of light oil and/or Kroil before and after each use. If not feed it a bunch and let it blow thru and see if you can get it to start and run both ways. This willblow out the small amt of crap caked in the vane grooves and it will be good as new ... almost.

...It may also be that the particular gun you have isnt a high power design and wont be enuf even working right. If that turns out the case, shop Ingersol Rand, Chicago Pneumatic, and other name brands for ones in the 600ftlb torque delivery range. Usually $200 or less can get you a good, very powerful gun. Cheaper powerful ones will be slightly less durable but for home shop use they should still last well.
larry

Someone gave my dad a impact years ago when i was just a small kid. It sat in my dads shop for years and never got used, not once. When i was about twelve i pulled it out of the pile and tried it. I wouldnt do anything but blow air thru. I took it apart and cleaned the vanes and the slots that they go into. Sure enough, the tool was brought back to life. I think i would try cleaning it before going out and buying another.

Perhaps someone else has already answered, but in case:

Your impact is suffering from stuck air vanes. Doesn't take much! A little gummed up lube, grit or rust and air won't spin them free. Try a lot of rust penetrant and let it soak. Might tap the housing a few times and try again. If it doesn't eventually loosen up then it will need to be disassembled. Most likely all you will need is to free the vanes and reassemble. A parts diagram should add some confidence, but it's not that big a deal.

2-3 drops of oil and a quick "burp!" of air before you store it might prevent the vanes from seizing again.

Good luck!

Dennis T

Certainly the best and quickest telling response to the most likely cause of the problem. Dont know where the OP is. :confused3:
larry

 

[PILOON]

I have saved, freed up, many air tools by squirting WD40 into the air inlet.
Generally a messy spraying of crapped up oils and grease comes our but cleans out the tool.
The WD dissolves dried the goop and they generally run fine afterwards.

 

[smilinjak]

Certainly the best and quickest telling response to the most likely cause of the problem. Dont know where the OP is. :confused3:
larry

I have impact guns of various brands that I worked daily for 25 years in the auto repair business that still work like new. The secret is a few drops of Marvel Mystery oil in the air inlet after each use. I have had some that weren't used for a year or two after I retired that had sluggish vanes but a good squirt of MMO had them humming like a 16d finishing nail in no time. If you use any oil that is not a gum solvent oil you will have stuck vanes in any rotary air tool. Engine oil is strictly a no-no. WD40 is a good penetrating oil but is too dry to lubricate air motors and it will gum over time.
Smilinjak

 

[Bird]

The secret is a few drops of Marvel Mystery oil in the air inlet after each use.

The regular old Marvel Mystery Oil ain't bad at all but when I was repairing air tools, I used the one specially formulated for air tools. And a lot of people give their air tool a shot of oil before use when it's more important to give it a shot after use, as you said.