Talk to me about the rear remote hydraulic valve type...mx5200

[MechanicalGuy]

Okay, I am putting in a hydraulic top link and I will be mainly using the rear of the tractor for bush hogging and box blading. I put a hydraulic remote in place when I bought the tractor new because it would give me options. I didn't specifically ask for a spring centered valve, but it seems like that would be optimal for feather adjusting my top link for box blading. Right now my plan is to get a needle flow control valve and put it in line with a #8 hose set. My cylinder is gonna be a 2.5" bore 12" stroke unit. Right now my valve is not spring centered. I know that hydraulics should typically be metered in, vs pneumatics being metered out. If I don't put a flow control in will I have fine enough control over the top link to make very minute adjustments in the blade angle? Is it more advantageous to have a spring centered valve?

Can I get by with just a single flow control on one line? Or will both lines need a flow control? I was looking at the free flow in one direction and metered in another direction type of flow control.

Tell me what I might not be considering. I'm familiar with hydraulics, but not tractor hydraulics.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

I would put your system together as you have it and then see if you have fine enough flow for your need. -8 lines are overkill. However, your cheapest solution is whatever size lines fits your fittings. You can buy in-line orifices to reduce flow. If its just an orifice and not an orifice/check valve, you only need one per cylinder. Orifices go in the hoses for the various cylinders, not the supply to the valve.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

^about the #8 yeah I agree it's overkill for that application but it would keep me from using a bunch of adapters, but maybe I should just adapt down. #8 stuff all costs more than #6 stuff or even #4 stuff.

I have never seen or used an inline orifice for a hose. I will have to investigate this thanks.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

Whichever route is cheaper. Adapters cost a bunch. The orifice would be a male/female fitting probably. Size, don't know, but likely smaller than you think.

Your valve is not OEM. How about a picture or two.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

Something like this...

Edit: Changed link. Look at pg M9

[https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw3nLoBbUQN6LpbEOFRnkfP8&cshid=1573578279136

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Whichever route is cheaper. Adapters cost a bunch. The orifice would be a male/female fitting probably. Size, don't know, but likely smaller than you think.

Your valve is not OEM. How about a picture or two.

I don't know why it wouldn't be oem. I ordered it from the dealer as an option when I bought the tractor and it had to be shipped from kubota.



That is the best pic i got right now.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Something like this...

Edit: Changed link. Look at pg M9

[https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw3nLoBbUQN6LpbEOFRnkfP8&cshid=1573578279136

Hey thanks for that I'll look those over.

 

[jeff9366]

If I don't put a flow control in will I have fine enough control over the top link to make very minute adjustments in the blade angle?

Tell me what I might not be considering.

You are over thinking this.

As tractor wheels move over uneven ground Three Point Hitch mounted implements undulate 3" to 4" continuously.
Utilizing tractor hydraulic position control and the hydraulic Top Link control you have all the adjustment you can use.
Minute adjustments are useless with 3" to 4" undulations.

After getting site reasonably level with BB, most would transition to FEL bucket in back drag for final smoothing or, if rich in implements, connect a roller to the drawbar via ball or pintle hitch. Not unitized to the tractor, roller will not be affected by tractor undulations.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

I don't know why it wouldn't be oem. I ordered it from the dealer as an option when I bought the tractor and it had to be shipped from kubota.

Because you said the valve didn't return to center. The hook ups look oem.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Because you said the valve didn't return to center. The hook ups look oem.

I can't believe that Kubota wouldn't offer non-spring return valves in addition to spring centered. It's common for either type i the hydraulic world. Is it not common on tractors?