TC-29 starting problems

[SteveInMD]

Below is a post from Radiopoor that may apply here. It gives you the part numbers for the items needed to separate the safety interlock circuit from the starter pinion circuit. (No, this does not eliminate the safety switches. It just helps to assure the pinion gets full voltage).

From Radiopoor...

This sounds almost the the "DX33 Starting Problem" post so I thought I would post my reply here too. I went to my Dealer yesterday and asked about the Service Bulletin mike10 mentioned and they printed the page off for me. The "Root Cause" on it says " Insufficient voltage at the starter solenoid to extend starter pinion as well as close contacts between the starter motor and battery".

These are the CIH part numbers listed in the bulletin:

1 30A Relay 86529089
1 Relay Base 245731C1
4 Terminal 225077C1

It says to procure the following items locally: ring style connector, 14 gauge wire & female spade connector.

I was just going to replace the switch but decided to do this too, then maybe I will not have to deal with this "no crank" problem again.

Hope this is helpfull.

Ron"

 

[erosol]

I had the switch replaced on mine, still the same problem. Then the dealer said there wasn't enough voltage getting to the starter solenoid, so they placed a relay between the starter wires. I hasn't had a problem starting in two years now.

 

[CBox]

JohnPatzer,

I also fought the intermittent starting / clicking problem as you described. As others have said, if you do some research you will find lots of info on this very topic.

After nearly two years of occasional frustration, I installed the relay fix as SteveInMD mentioned and it has COMPLETELY solved my problem. I also installed an Odyssey battery and did away with the acid corrosion on the radiator and battery bracket as well.

I believe if you find the post DX33 Starting Problem, mike10 has some nice pictures and instructions that helped me greatly. It may sound challenging, but I recommend installing the relay and solving your problem.

CBox

 

[FarmallAcres]

Below is a post from Radiopoor that may apply here. It gives you the part numbers for the items needed to separate the safety interlock circuit from the starter pinion circuit. (No, this does not eliminate the safety switches. It just helps to assure the pinion gets full voltage).

From Radiopoor...

This sounds almost the the "DX33 Starting Problem" post so I thought I would post my reply here too. I went to my Dealer yesterday and asked about the Service Bulletin mike10 mentioned and they printed the page off for me. The "Root Cause" on it says " Insufficient voltage at the starter solenoid to extend starter pinion as well as close contacts between the starter motor and battery".

These are the CIH part numbers listed in the bulletin:

1 30A Relay 86529089
1 Relay Base 245731C1
4 Terminal 225077C1

It says to procure the following items locally: ring style connector, 14 gauge wire & female spade connector.

I was just going to replace the switch but decided to do this too, then maybe I will not have to deal with this "no crank" problem again.

Hope this is helpfull.

Ron"

I contacted 3 NH dealers and NH in Wisconsin before I found the service bulletin with install steps for starter relay. Purchased the relay with wiring harness and fuse holder for less than $5 at local auto parts. Will install relay next week and post my results. I tried new swith for $105 but did not work. My dealer wanted to replace starter but this discussion board led me to try relay.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. I love dealers shotgun parts approach... IE.. systematically start replacing all the aprts inthe circuit, starting at the most expensive.. till you get down tot he 4-10$ of wire and find out it was a bad 20 cent crimp connector.. and not the 800$ worth of starter and assorted parts you sold the customer...

soundguy

 

[forteatwo]

What about simply bypassing the entire safety circuit by wiring the ignition switch directly to the starter. I asked my dealer if he would do that on my TC 29D and of course he said no, but offered to show me how to do it stating it would take about five minutes. I am unconvinced there are significant safety issues but maybe someone can enlighten me. It was my understanding the clutch would still have to be engaged for the starter to activate but the gear shift lever would not need to be in neutral. Which is to say, the tractor would operate just like a manual transmission car. Feel free to address the safety issue as I would not want to advocate anything inherently risky. But this seems the best option for avoiding future problems with what strikes me as a poorly engineered safety circuit with too many vulnerable connections. While the relay option is a good one, one assumes it will not work if the safety circuit is open. In addition, if the voltage drops across the safety loop, one can only conclude the circuit is about to fail and we are back to a no-start.

 

[SteveInMD]

I contacted 3 NH dealers and NH in Wisconsin before I found the service bulletin with install steps for starter relay. Purchased the relay with wiring harness and fuse holder for less than $5 at local auto parts. Will install relay next week and post my results. I tried new swith for $105 but did not work. My dealer wanted to replace starter but this discussion board led me to try relay.

Is there any change you can scan a copy of the service bulletin and post it here or PM it to me?

 

[thclimer]

Is there any change you can scan a copy of the service bulletin and post it here or PM it to me?

I'd like to see it as well

 

[Soundguy]

Big difference in the power needed to energize a small relay coil, vs a starter solenoid. remember.. voltage drop across a connection will be a function of current in the circuit.

RE-read your message.. you are advocating bypassing the "'entire safety circuit by wiring the ignition switch directly to the starter" ( your words ).. We can assume you meant to say directly to the starter solenoid.

In that case.. a clutch / tranny neutral .. or pto switch will not be in effect.. thus activating the key switch will start the tractor.. in gear, clutch not pushed, pto engaged... thus.. if you were not expecting it.. or started it from the ground.. you may be run'd over and cut up depending on the circumstances.

lets not take leaps and bounds BACKWARDS in safety... ford came up with the tranny interlocked start swithc back with the early N series... no reason to delve back to 1930's technology just to get around a circuit that is otherwise 'fixable'.

soundguy

What about simply bypassing the entire safety circuit by wiring the ignition switch directly to the starter. I asked my dealer if he would do that on my TC 29D and of course he said no, but offered to show me how to do it stating it would take about five minutes. I am unconvinced there are significant safety issues but maybe someone can enlighten me. It was my understanding the clutch would still have to be engaged for the starter to activate but the gear shift lever would not need to be in neutral. Which is to say, the tractor would operate just like a manual transmission car. Feel free to address the safety issue as I would not want to advocate anything inherently risky. But this seems the best option for avoiding future problems with what strikes me as a poorly engineered safety circuit with too many vulnerable connections. While the relay option is a good one, one assumes it will not work if the safety circuit is open. In addition, if the voltage drops across the safety loop, one can only conclude the circuit is about to fail and we are back to a no-start.

 

[Jsheds]

Do a search for 'TC33da starting problems' in this forum from about last october. I posted pictures and the instructions I received from my local dealer on installing the relay.
Jim


Here's a link, if it works;
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/108671-tc33da-starting-problems.html