TC24DA T&T continued......

JSUnlimited · Feb 11, 2006

Still no real progress on this project. I have a few plans/options though.

Plan A - Buy everything from CCM in a couple of months, or whenever he has the stuff in stock (joystick, top and side link). I still at this point really don't know that total cost?

Plan B - Buy the components from Surplus Supply, and locally (we have a large Prince, Chief, Eaton-Cessna dealer and hydro-supply shop locally.) I have found that the prices from Surplus are much better though. If I chose this route, heres the list of stuff I've looked at, any input you guys have is VERY MUCH WELCOME!

Valve - The valve I need will have 2 spools, open-center, with power beyond. I'm happy with having 2 levers and they both will be spring centered.
Option A - Eaton-Cessna, is nice and compact. It has a small footprint for mounting and is $195.00 w/power-beyond option. 2 SPOOL 5 GPM EATON CESSNA 30922 OC VALVE
Option B - Prince SV, larger footprint, also it is expandable. Has load checks in each section. It's $179.50 as I've configured it. 2 SPOOL SV VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND
Option C - I have found this one also??? $149.95. Has load checks. 2 SPOOL 25 GPM PRINCE RD522CCAA5A4B1 OC VALVE

Cylinder - I still have to measure the size (space from the welding area to the center of the eye) of the weld on Cat 1 ends from TSC to determine the correct cylinder length. I have not been there yet but in the mean time here's what I was looking at. I want a welded cylinder and I'll cut off whatever ends come on it and put my own on.

Side-link - 2X6X1.25 216-701 2006WT DA HYD CYL 3/4" PINS

Top-link - 2X10X1.25 216-703 2010WT DA HYD CYL 3/4" PINS

I may need to adjust the cylinder lengths based on the size of the weld-on Cat. 1 ends.

I'm by no means a hydraulic expert. I have questions reguarding cylinder bores and what sizes are really needed. Also if the valve has load check built in, do I really need pilot valves on the cylinders? I noticed that my FEL cylinders don't have them and they don't seem to bleed off. Again input is appreciated. Joe

rswyan · Feb 11, 2006

If it were me I think I would go with the SV as opposed to the others - the handles on the Eaton-Cessna don't float my boat and mono-block Prince is not expandable. The SV will allow you to add additional spools, hydraulic motor spools, detent kits, etc.

You might want to consider going with three spools as well - what happens if you are using two for TnT and you need to hook up a third item ?

I went with a three section SV myself - and wish I had gotten detents on one of them. At least I can add it if I ever get around to it.

I have not added a tilt link yet, but when I do I would not be able to use my dump cart or a hydraulic angle on my landscape rake without removing either the top or the tilit. FWIW.

I think you'll want pilot operated load checks on the cylinders - maybe MadRef can elaborate why as it escapes me at the moment.

MadReferee · Feb 11, 2006

Either the Eaton-Cessna or the Prince SV should be your only choices under Plan B. The Prince SV is much bigger and more than twice the weight but a bit more flexible configuration wise. The Eaton-Cessna is sized just right for your TC24. The 25gpm Prince you mentioned is a BIG monster and way, way overkill for a little TC24. Heck it weighs 25 lbs vs 7 lbs for the Eaton-Cessna. Even the Prince SV is oversized for your TC. You have to decide how much space you want to take up.

TNT cylinders should have pilot operated check valves. Load checks in the spool valve do not equal pilot/lock valve functionality. As I mentioned in your other post, the Prince SV can be configured with work sections (SVL1CA1) that have pilot operated check/lock functionality.

My choice for your TC would be to get the Eaton-Cessna and wait for the CCM cylinders. As others here and myself have continuously said, the wait will be more than worth it for the end result.

JSUnlimited · Feb 13, 2006

MadReferee,

Thanks again for the information. I've decided on the Eaton valve based on the points you have made. Sorry that I seem to keep asking the same questions over and over, I just want to make sure I'm getting the most for my money.

Now, as far as the cylinders go, let me ask you this. Most of the time in the summer I use my TC to mow with a Woods RFM. Obviously the RFM is supported on all fours with casters so leak down would'nt hurt anything. Since everyone is concerned about cylinder drift without POCV (pilot-oper. check-valves) on the cylinders, would it really be a need for me. The only time I think that there would be a hassle would be during the very minimal time I have to use the bush hog (once a month for about 45 mins.) When I do use the box or grader blade, it's usually in such an occaison that I need to make frequent adjustments anyways.

I know Mark at CCM has good products, I've bought a tiller from him. But do I really NEED his cylinders? I just trying to look at all aspects. If you want to shoot me now feel free!!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif You should have been around me when I was looking to buy the **** tractor, drove everyone nuts! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

MadReferee · Feb 13, 2006

( Most of the time in the summer I use my TC to mow with a Woods RFM. Obviously the RFM is supported on all fours with casters so leak down would'nt hurt anything. )

So why not wait for the CCM cylinders? Why get a Yugo when you can wait a little and get a BMW?

A Chief cylinder with the correct ends will cost almost as much as a CCM cylinder. A Prince cylinder will probably be even more.

I don't believe that you need an HTL for mowing. However, an HTL is very usefull for box scraping and rear blading. Waiting a few months to get the cylinders is not going to hurt anything you may be doing, assuming your uses as stated above are correct. But you know best what you need/want and it's your money.

jinman · Feb 14, 2006

( I know Mark at CCM has good products, I've bought a tiller from him. But do I really NEED his cylinders? )

Let me say this slowly with emphasis... Y-E-S !

I wish you had a larger tractor because I'd offer to loan you a hydraulic toplink without the POCVs. I had one for over two years before buying one from CCM. In my opinion, the tilt cylinder doesn't matter because the lift arms always float anyway, but the toplink is worth waiting on. It makes a huge difference when it stays where you put it. Now that I have seen it's benefits, I would not be without it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Have patience; you'll never regret it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif