TC33 hydrolic service

[RickB]

Those are the factory-installed hydraulic and hydrostatic filters. The paint matching the chassis color is the tipoff. Gray color instead of the current black is also an indication the tractor, oil, and filters are several years old. Just a plain old fashioned lack of maintanence along with some added contaminants. Don't credit the generic oil alone for quieting down the hydraulics. The new filters are mostly responsible. If you think filters and oil are expensive, wait till plugged filters and contaminated oil trash your hydrostatic transmission.

 

[schmism]

I would also change engine oil within next 50 hoours, since it may have been over do for a change.

change the engine oil again in 50 hrs? In all my years of changing oil in cars ive only run across oil that back and dirty one other time (a car that had suffered lack of maintaince and some 15K miles on it)

but thats my first time dealing with a diesel so i dont know if the 2 compair well....

I had considered changing all the fluids again soon (this comming summer) perhaps 100 hrs or so. (ill be getting good seat time with the construction of our little apt to live in this winter/spring)

As for the trans oil. Ya i know it doesnt specificallly say NH134 or F200a (orwhatever the other one is) but i could have sworn i saw a post round hear that said kubuta UDT and NH134 were essentally the same fluid just badged diffrently for orange vs blue. (i even did a bit of reserch on UDT before hand but didnt find anything TADA!)

how well do the tractors do at keeping mosture out of the internals if they sit outside uncovered for extended periods (months) (not that it does at my place but may have in its pooor abused past life)

oh and as for the flash screwing with colors/transparency.... not so much on that pic, the pic is dead on what it looked like in real person.

 

[schmism]

I used a quality generic oil the last time I changed my fluid and the next time I'll go back to NH fluid. I think the generic oil seemed to have a higher viscosity than NH134.

this being my first time dealing with hyrolic oil, at the temp i was working (say 50-55deg) it seemed to have the viscosity of a generic 10-30 (give or take) certianlly a LOT less thick than 80w-90 gear oil i run in 5speed and rear end of the truck.

 

[dqdave1]

Diesels will get oil black in color quickly do to the soot contamination from blow by. 100 hours is normal change time (or seasonal) UNLESS YOU ARE WORKING IT VERY HARD, THEN CNH SAYS 70 HOURS. Since this unit has lacked normal maintainance , I personallly would change all fluids now. You did transmission and engine. Engine oil I would change again in 50 hours just for piece of mind. Transmission I would do within a few hours because you left a large amount of contaminated oil in the unit ( pump, lines etc) also I personnally would use CNH 134 or equivelent. If it matches 134 specs, the oil WILL state that it meets the specs. YOU NEED TO GET THE CONTAMINATED OIL OUT; cheap price vs. rebuild. After a few hours, the oils will mix and hopefully most problems will be averted then. Yes , you have to buy another expensive filter BUT.
Last note; all hydraulic oil housings are pretty water tight; leaving them sit in weather will not let water in. Pressure washing tractors will let water get in. Leaving fill caps, dipsticks not properly seated will also do it.
Anti freeze is another overlooked item that needs changed .

 

[schmism]

antifreeze is a diffrent story. it was like a half a gallon low when i got it so i figure it was **** near a change anyway

 

[Doc_Bob]

I personallly would change all fluids now.

I second it.
Bob

 

[whitetiger]

Guys, if you look at the picture of the label, first line below Ford New Holland it lists 134D,C,B,A.

 

[dqdave1]

You are right; I missed that; I did state to use 134 or equivalent. Most important at this time is to get the contaminated oil out of system.

 

[wolftownjeff]

How do you check the hydro level, dip stick pushed in or not?

 

[RickB]

Fully seated.