TC33 hydrolic service

[schmism]

Well at only 253 hrs i went ahead and changed all the oil in the tractor (300hr service)

so a few notes on my experience
1) the dealer thinks filters have platnum filter eliments or something
$60 for all 3 oil filters.
2) got 10 gals of "generic" trans fluid at the rural king for $30 a 5 gallon
3) if your new to the oil service game on a tractor. save your self some headach and get yourself a strap wrench if you dont already have one. NOTE if ou dont have one, you CAN get a rachet strap looped around the filter 3 or 4 times, then have a helper pull on the end while you twist by hand... the combined force will losen a otherwise impossible to move by hand filter.

the small gold mine

note the old filters still seem to have the factory paint on them!?!?! IS this normal? the engine oil fiter is a denso filter. Is that what they put on them at the factory or has it been changed? It also was not comforting to know that the rear drain plug had not been disturbed. still had the factory paint on all surfaces.

mmmmmmm LOTS of old oil. Hows that look? Oh and 7.5 gallons seems to be about right. And i couldnt find a quanty on the engine oil. Seems like it took 4qts to fill on the dipstick.

btw does anyone know what the amount difference is on the trans oil dipstick (like a gallon from low to high?)

oh and the label from the generic oil. What i can tell you is that hyd pump went from whinging virtually ALLLLL the time to nice and quiet. The FEL seemed to be more responsive also.

http://www.snjschmidt.com/pics/property/trans_fluid.jpg
(thats a full size img 56k warning)

 

[Doc_Bob]

Okay, what is that brown fluid?
Bob

 

[deerhunterf350]

Okay, what is that brown fluid?
Bob

I was wondering the same thing, It is either Liquid Carmel , or Water in the Hydro Fluid/ Oil

 

[schmism]

I was wondering the same thing, It is either Liquid Carmel , or Water in the Hydro Fluid/ Oil

ill have you know (what came to my mind) was liquid peantbutter thankyouverymuch

anyone want to speculate on weather the 50hr service was ever performed?

(i aquired it at 212hrs give or take a few)

 

[DieselPower]

Whatever fluid it is, it sure don't look healthy. Chocolate milk shakes are never a good sign.

 

[Doc_Bob]

anyone want to speculate on weather the 50hr service was ever performed?

I will vote no.
Bob

 

[dqdave1]

TC-33 calls for NH134 fluid ; is what you used tthe same. I did not see NH 134 listed.

Also, after seeing the oil; better change the coolant also; doubt if it was ever changed. I would also change engine oil within next 50 hoours, since it may have been over do for a change. This would be insurance for sludge build up. Someone here may know of an additive to add to hyd. oil as it has been contaminated with something (water). May want to change it out shortly to get rid of all contamination.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Make sure your hydro oil is NH134 fluid.
Bob

 

[jinman]

Sometimes camera flash units can cause things to look funny, but that oil sure looks contaminated with water to me. I'd look for condensation or change the oil again at a short interval as previously suggested. My transmission oil at 300 hours is clear with just a tiny tint of contamination. Your oil looks really full of water and that could mean the water has caused some amount of rust inside your casings; thus, the brown oil.

I'm not surprised your transmission sounded so bad on that stuff. Your tractor's innards are sure to be better served by the new oil. I used a quality generic oil the last time I changed my fluid and the next time I'll go back to NH fluid. I think the generic oil seemed to have a higher viscosity than NH134.

At the hours you have on your tractor, your oil should not look that bad. You have internal condensation or something else going on that caused that. I'd keep an eye on it. It could have happened somewhere between Japan and your dealer in MO, or who knows since you bought your tractor used. Now that it's yours and you are using "platinum" products, this kind of problem should disappear. I hope you don't have any other problems because of this.

 

[DieselMonk]

ill have you know (what came to my mind) was liquid peantbutter thankyouverymuch

anyone want to speculate on weather the 50hr service was ever performed?

(i aquired it at 212hrs give or take a few)

Yes, I think so, because the filters you took out don't look like NH filters to me. I am not sure, how that hydraulic oil got that much water in it, but lemme tell you that I never changed my hydraulic oil yet (only filter) and have 200hrs on the meter. Mine still looks good, no cloudyness at all. That hydraulic oil you took out sure does not look good, probably some rust and goo contaminated the filter and that why the pump was whining due to the restriction and loss of the lubericity of the oil. In your case I would look at that oil more often and change it again. Remember that there is still 2 or 3 gals of that contaminated stuff in there. It's quite thinned out now, but you'll see on the dipstic and veryfy the oils colour with new stuff.

 

[RickB]

Those are the factory-installed hydraulic and hydrostatic filters. The paint matching the chassis color is the tipoff. Gray color instead of the current black is also an indication the tractor, oil, and filters are several years old. Just a plain old fashioned lack of maintanence along with some added contaminants. Don't credit the generic oil alone for quieting down the hydraulics. The new filters are mostly responsible. If you think filters and oil are expensive, wait till plugged filters and contaminated oil trash your hydrostatic transmission.

 

[schmism]

I would also change engine oil within next 50 hoours, since it may have been over do for a change.

change the engine oil again in 50 hrs? In all my years of changing oil in cars ive only run across oil that back and dirty one other time (a car that had suffered lack of maintaince and some 15K miles on it)

but thats my first time dealing with a diesel so i dont know if the 2 compair well....

I had considered changing all the fluids again soon (this comming summer) perhaps 100 hrs or so. (ill be getting good seat time with the construction of our little apt to live in this winter/spring)

As for the trans oil. Ya i know it doesnt specificallly say NH134 or F200a (orwhatever the other one is) but i could have sworn i saw a post round hear that said kubuta UDT and NH134 were essentally the same fluid just badged diffrently for orange vs blue. (i even did a bit of reserch on UDT before hand but didnt find anything TADA!)

how well do the tractors do at keeping mosture out of the internals if they sit outside uncovered for extended periods (months) (not that it does at my place but may have in its pooor abused past life)

oh and as for the flash screwing with colors/transparency.... not so much on that pic, the pic is dead on what it looked like in real person.

 

[schmism]

I used a quality generic oil the last time I changed my fluid and the next time I'll go back to NH fluid. I think the generic oil seemed to have a higher viscosity than NH134.

this being my first time dealing with hyrolic oil, at the temp i was working (say 50-55deg) it seemed to have the viscosity of a generic 10-30 (give or take) certianlly a LOT less thick than 80w-90 gear oil i run in 5speed and rear end of the truck.

 

[dqdave1]

Diesels will get oil black in color quickly do to the soot contamination from blow by. 100 hours is normal change time (or seasonal) UNLESS YOU ARE WORKING IT VERY HARD, THEN CNH SAYS 70 HOURS. Since this unit has lacked normal maintainance , I personallly would change all fluids now. You did transmission and engine. Engine oil I would change again in 50 hours just for piece of mind. Transmission I would do within a few hours because you left a large amount of contaminated oil in the unit ( pump, lines etc) also I personnally would use CNH 134 or equivelent. If it matches 134 specs, the oil WILL state that it meets the specs. YOU NEED TO GET THE CONTAMINATED OIL OUT; cheap price vs. rebuild. After a few hours, the oils will mix and hopefully most problems will be averted then. Yes , you have to buy another expensive filter BUT.
Last note; all hydraulic oil housings are pretty water tight; leaving them sit in weather will not let water in. Pressure washing tractors will let water get in. Leaving fill caps, dipsticks not properly seated will also do it.
Anti freeze is another overlooked item that needs changed .

 

[schmism]

antifreeze is a diffrent story. it was like a half a gallon low when i got it so i figure it was **** near a change anyway

 

[Doc_Bob]

I personallly would change all fluids now.

I second it.
Bob

 

[whitetiger]

Guys, if you look at the picture of the label, first line below Ford New Holland it lists 134D,C,B,A.

 

[dqdave1]

You are right; I missed that; I did state to use 134 or equivalent. Most important at this time is to get the contaminated oil out of system.

 

[wolftownjeff]

How do you check the hydro level, dip stick pushed in or not?

 

[RickB]

Fully seated.