Those cuts in the teeth on new one were in the the old starter teeth too, they’ve just worn down quite a bit
ruffdog
Super Star Member
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- Bobcat Toolcat 5610G, Deere X744, Cub Cadet IH 982
"I even hooked up the battery directly to the starter and jumped it nothing works it’s as if somehow being mounted on the tractor is robbing power from the tractor."
Most times that is a problem with grounding or power cable. Take a jumper cable and go from the negative battery post to a good ground on the engine and positive to the post on the starter solenoid, does it improve the action of the starter?
Most times that is a problem with grounding or power cable. Take a jumper cable and go from the negative battery post to a good ground on the engine and positive to the post on the starter solenoid, does it improve the action of the starter?
ruffdog
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- Bobcat Toolcat 5610G, Deere X744, Cub Cadet IH 982
The wear pattern on the flywheel also shows that the bendix only engages about half the tooth.
thclimer
Veteran Member
One thought that I have is are your cables from the battery in good shape. I have read that they can corrode from within and you cant see it. A test could help confirm this is to use good jumper cables to supply power to your starter, if that makes it spin faster then you know there is an issue somewhere in between.
Edit: Didn't see Ruffdos's reply above, but sounds like he was thinking the same issue might be possible.
Edit: Didn't see Ruffdos's reply above, but sounds like he was thinking the same issue might be possible.
Both cables were replaced last year. I used a jumper cable to connect bat - to the stater mounting bolt, which was up against the mounting body. I used a new bat cable from + to the solenoid mount and jumped the solenoid contact both from the solenoid battery cable mount and directly from the battery.
I have confirmed the bendix is NOT extending when montes on the tractor. I put a piece of tape on the ring gear and the bendix never touches it.
Somehow the starter is losing power only when physically connected to the tractor. I just had them both checked by a shop and they’re both good.
LittleBill21
Elite Member
do a voltage drop test.
Do I just hook up the multi tithe battery and watch for the lowest voltage?
LittleBill21
Elite Member
you might want to google it, it takes a couple minutes to wrap your head around it. you put the meter on the same power wire ( both sides of plus) and look for a voltage difference, its to determine if the wiring or path is causing a low voltage issue.
Ok barely any voltage drop on the + and had .8 on the - side. I loosened and retightened the - and got a little better reading but not much. Now I keep blowing fuses like nobody’s biz. So apparently the plate that the starter bolts to must not be providing the ground it needs. I’m going to get new cables and half tempted to run a ground strap from the starter bolt to the wire harness ground right next to it. I’ll update tomorrow. Thanks so much for the help.
Well, I’m officially out of ideas. I’ve had both starters tested and they’re both good. I changed out the battery cables with new ones. I was thinking maybe somehow I screwed up the wiring when I replaced the relays but here’s the most mind boggling thing: I pulled the starter, connected the + to the battery and the - with a jumper cable to the battery the bendix advances and the starter spins up normally. Then I put a piece of tape over the end of the starter loose enough to allow it to spin but if the bendix advances it will rip the tape. Then installed the starter on the tractor and only connected the + to the battery. I jumped the solenoid and again the stater just spins, pulled the starter and the tape was still intact. So, for some reason ONLY when the starter is installed on the tractor the bendix won’t advance. I thought maybe I had a tiny misalignment issue so I colored the ring gear and starter gear with a sharpie, no shiny metal. I also installed a jumper between the wire harnesses ground on the block and one of the starter bolts. The starter bolts to a plate that attaches to the back of the motor. I never removed that while changing the clutch so the previous ground circuit is intact with the exception of me disconnecting the battery. The battery is charged and I’ve used another just in case. Same results.