TC33D wont start

[jinman]

... BUY the Repair Manual (or at least the wiring diagram).

You don't have to have the Repair Manual. Electrical schematics are part of the Operator's Manual. From his description, it sounds like something wired in series that should be in parallel (maybe when the mod was done). He needs to start at the big lug on the starter and find out where the power is dropping by tracing the circuits. Pulling fuses one at a time can also tell a story by eliminating whole sets of circuit loads.

 

[ctdave]

You don't have to have the Repair Manual. Electrical schematics are part of the Operator's Manual. From his description, it sounds like something wired in series that should be in parallel (maybe when the mod was done). He needs to start at the big lug on the starter and find out where the power is dropping by tracing the circuits. Pulling fuses one at a time can also tell a story by eliminating whole sets of circuit loads.

Yep, your right. Time to start looking down the whole **** system. I would have sworn that the relay upgrade was the fix as the tractor had the identical symptoms.

I'll report back after

David

 

[ctdave]

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy cow! Well, you are all free to call me a dumb azz:mur:
Remember all our lives when people told us "start with the easy things"? Well, nothing has ever been easy for me so I tend to go for the difficult.
After installing the new relay system & had the exact same problem, I started going relay by relay, harness by harness & wire by wire:confused2:
The battery always showed 12 volts but the system would die down to 4-6 volts when the key was turned on. I figured 12 volts was 12 volts so it couldn't be a battery problem:ashamed:
Yep, after checking all systems & working back to the battery, I found that as soon as power was drawn, it had a short inside. The battery actually was bulging on the back side.
Well, I have a new battery & the tractor is running just fine with the relay upgrade.

Thanks
David

 

[jinman]

Good troubleshooting! Everytime good troubleshooting wins over Easter egging, an angel gets their wings.:thumbsup:

 

[ctdave]

"Easter egging", I like that one!

Thanks again!

 

[doall]

we've all been there and done that. lol

 

[41Chev]

Is the circuit upgrade applicable to an 07 TC45DA? Tks Greg

 

[SteveInMD]

On the TC33D you would experience no crank when you turned the key, high current draw in the starting circuit, then a blown fuse. The problem this upgrade solves is a less-than-reliable starter solenoid throw-in (perhaps a partial throw-in) when the voltage delivered by the starting circuit is not optimal. The theory is the high current draw is caused by the slow or sub-par throw in. The fix reduces the voltage drop in the starting circuit by reducing the number of contacts. The TC33D OEM solenoid requires good voltage to operate reliably. I don't know if the TC45DA has the same issue. If you experience no crank and a blown fuse in the starting circuit this fix may help you.

You can also try replacing the fuse with a self resetting circuit breaker. The breaker will reset after a bad throw-in and no crank. Obviously this is a more simple approach that has served some people well here. I like my tractor to crank over every time I turn the key, and the wiring for the above fix is really pretty simple.

 

[edells]

Wow, am I glad I found this post. Should have looked here first!

All I did was some pre-winter maint. - lube, change oil and filter and clean corrosion from battery cable. And then she wouldn't start - just the click and buzzing. Crap! (you know that feeling) Go figure...

I had all the same symptoms, but on a 2001(?) TC35D, and pretty much did all the same trouble shooting and was just getting ready to call the flatbed to get her hauled in to the tractor shop. Then I found this post. I ordered up a new cable ($72 - because of the three moulded in wires and connectors, I guess), got it installed and she started right up. What a relief!! Thanks, Sherpa!

I'm thinking maybe over the years that corrosion crept into the cable and, even though it would show 12v at the starter, it wouldn't draw enough amps to engage the starter - just 'click'.

On the bright side, I guess it's better to have the problem and get it fixed now instead of being stuck and having to do it in a Wisconsin snow bank in January.

Thanks again, Sherpa, for the post back then. :thumbsup:

 

[brin]

So now it is my TC -29 D....won't start...just click a lot when I turn the key....I hate to say...I have not started it up in 6 mos...Soooo....I have the battery on charge...cleaned the cables...and will try it again tomorrow after charging over night...It almost sounds like it is double clicking from the starter and solenoid...I checked a quick pull, tug and visual on the cables and they seem to be sound...Just a couple of weeks ago I had noticed the battery posts had a lot of corrosion so I cleaned all of that off and cleaned the posts...but after reading this thread I am wondering if I have corrosion in the cables themselves that is internal which I can't see...I guess I will know tomorrow when I try it...

If anyone has any ideas...I am all ears...especially about what my next step is if it does not start tomorrow after charging all night....I guess I could drive it down to Texas to Jim....Jinman or one of you other fellas...LOL

Thanks in advance for any ideas...I do my own maintenance but lay no claims to being a mechanic...not since the cars etc. up until the '60's

 

[rayikeo2]

Brin, your problem may be in the ignition switch like mine was. No guarantees but I had the similar problem on a different tractor, a 1700. Also read the post below. Here is a link in case it moves. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/288801-tc-40d-starter-problems.html I think a lot of starting problems are really ignition switch problems. I am not a mechanic, just an old try to do my own work guy.

 

[Papasmirf]

I have a 2007 TC30 that did the same. After a 1/2 day of searching I found a small relay that is for the starter start circuit. I replaced it...all ok now

 

[trmechapt]

Check the ground cable where it bolts to the frame and make sure it is clean.

 

[Nomoregears]

Well, Here I sit, read through this LONG post and have tried pretty much everything here (I THINK). My 2004 TC29DA has been down for a month. It stalled while I was bush hogging around a swamp. It took some maneuvering and some serious winching to get it to a spot where I could tow it back to the house. From there I began checking the battery, cables, fuses, and relays. My PTO light is on even though both my PTO are disengaged. I can physically turn both shafts when they are out,and can't turn them when the levers are put into "gear". Checked the two wires hooked up on the left underside and the switches, they look good. Connections were cleaned and didn't show any corrosion. Solenoid relay clicks when key is turned. Swapped relays too. I can hot wire the tractor to get it started, so I know my started works, and the battery is charging correctly. If I choose to put an on off switch, and a push button, I can use the tractor but this nulls any safety switch or interlock. I just did this to get the tractor into the garage.

I am open to suggestions. Does anyone have a scan of the schematic in the owners manual. My manual was lost in a flood three years ago (the tractor wasn't flooded).

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[trmechapt]

What is the voltage at the start relay? Even though the connections are clean, one of those safety switches may be breaking down when a load is applied. Don't rule out the ign. switch yet. Use a jumper wire at the switch to bypass it.
Gary

 

[gmason]

Wow, am I glad I found this post. Should have looked here first!

All I did was some pre

my TC35D started having this same issue this week. Light all look good and the glow plug light goes off and I turn the switch to start and just a click then nothing, lights go very dim or out. I check the ground cable and wire brushed the bolt and connector to the frame.
Even took a cooper wire to that + side of the battery and clamped it directly to the frame and still got the same sequence of no start.
Battery is 3 months old and charges to 13.5v just fine. I noticed that by the battery terminal on the red - cable, if I wiggle it a little the lights come back on, so I think I may have a bad RED(-) cable. I was going to try to replace just the battery clamp and cutting off 1in of the red cable before I order/replace the whole red wire harness.

gary

 

[Mainer76]

I have a 2007 TC30 that did the same. After a 1/2 day of searching I found a small relay that is for the starter start circuit. I replaced it...all ok now

Where is that relay located?

 

[jondory]

I have a TC45DA. Similar no start condition unless I jumper the fuel shut off solenoid to the battery. I started down a few threads and discovered a set of wiring diagrams (schematics) for a TC45D. My 45DA is slightly different. Does anyone have a similar diagram to the post that jinman (rip) created back in 2009. Here is his post- http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...erating/137391-tc-40-glow-plug-problem-2.html

The issue is probably the Seat Switch or the Operator Safety Module... Do these fail that often? I found a seat switch on Messicks (87385234). But I'd like to confirm before I spend the $'s

 

[robertsamueljones]

See attachment

First let me thank you for taking the time to help many New Holland owners out we all appreciate it. I have a question though on your diagram do you mean to go through the safety interlocks or wire directly to the new relay. I would sure appreciate any help. You can also call me at 214-616-5245. I have had trouble ever since I bought this tractor with starting it. I love the tractor hate the electrical problems. Again thank you so much.

 

[SteveInMD]

It has been a while since I checked in on this website. The answer to the above question is yes, I did mean to go through the safety interlocks for the starting circuit. It would certainly be possible to eliminate them from the circuit, but I do think they make the tractor more safe. The modified circuit should allow the starting solenoid to work as intended even if the new relay receives less than full battery voltage.

This fix has worked perfectly for me for years now. I have zero electrical problems with the tractor since making this change. I have had no problems with the key switch, timers, or relays after the modification.