TC34DA Won't Start... Any ideas?

jinman · Sep 3, 2007

Max, if your PTO switch was bad, you should have a PTO light on your dash panel (I think the TC34DA has one...). I've also heard of many problems with the neutral sensing on the class II tractors. You have two neutrals between gear ranges don't you? If all else fails, you should check your PTO, neutral switch, and seat switch. I think those three things are the safety interlocks. Did you look at your seat switch?

Hope you find the problem soon. There have been a couple of times I wanted to install an interlock bypass switch on my tractor. It can sure get frustrating when you have to manually jump start the tractor, especially when you know it's in neutral and the PTO is off.

BarnStangz · Sep 3, 2007

jinman said:
Max, if your PTO switch was bad, you should have a PTO light on your dash panel (I think the TC34DA has one...). I've also heard of many problems with the neutral sensing on the class II tractors. You have two neutrals between gear ranges don't you? If all else fails, you should check your PTO, neutral switch, and seat switch. I think those three things are the safety interlocks. Did you look at your seat switch?

Hope you find the problem soon. There have been a couple of times I wanted to install an interlock bypass switch on my tractor. It can sure get frustrating when you have to manually jump start the tractor, especially when you know it's in neutral and the PTO is off.

Jinman,

Thank you for the ideas. I'm going to go through things again on Wednesday when I have a little free time. I do have a PTO light on the dash and it will only come on when the mid-pto is engaged or when the rear-pto is on. I checked the mid-pto switch and it seems to be functioning okay. You are correct; I do have two neutrals between gears. I'll have to check the safety switch for the gears, although I don't think it's with them. My seat switch I jumped a long time ago. I can not stand having to shift to neutral and set the parking brake just to jump off and move a rock or something.

I now have the starter jump down to a science and can start my tractor just as fast with the key, but it's still a pain in the back side. I really think that there is a problem with the switch (like so many others have been having issues with) so I will call my dealer tomorrow and have them send out a warranty tech with a switch. Either way, I'll let everyone know what the deal was / is. I am just happy I was able to finish cleaning my barn out this weekend. I'll have to post pictures, the change is amazing! Thanks again guys!

Max

BarnStangz · Sep 4, 2007

...So apparently, CNH will not cover delivery costs for warranty work. At least, that is what my dealer stated. So, I either take the tractor to him, or he picks it up for $60 bones. Then returns it for another $60. $120 bucks is a $120 bucks, I hope I can save some a little cash... I told him to order an ignition switch and I might just drive up there and pick it up and install it myself. He said that there wouldn't be a problem with that. What do you guys think about this, I'm pretty handy and don't mind doing work on something simple like this... He'll even show me the removal points to look at and all that. My way of thinking, is, if it's more then the ignition switch, then maybe he can charge more to CNH so that I wouldn't have to pay for pickup and delivery... Or, I need to find a decent trailer... Time to check auctions I guess...

Thanks guys.

Max

johnnylight · Sep 4, 2007

maxfior,

I had this problem once and it was what Jinman suggested the two wires were disconnected due to clearing ---some branches must of knock it off.

There is safty recall on the seat switch-nothing to do with starting.

What type of work were doing when this problem started?

It has to be something stupid simple these tractors are very reliable it always something I did when I had a problem.

I always have to play with shift from neutral to 1 (hard to shift issue)

The only other suggestion I have is to check on the jumper wire you installed on the safety switch (you need to remove this before it goes anywhere near your dealer for warranty issues) maybe the pin was pushed out on the other side from that 12 gauge wire you used any signs of oxy going on that jumper?
That's my bet..

last resort: Different Dealer
Try a tech call with a mech maybe he can do a walk through.

BarnStangz · Sep 5, 2007

johnnylight said:
maxfior,

I had this problem once and it was what Jinman suggested the two wires were disconnected due to clearing ---some branches must of knock it off.

There is safty recall on the seat switch-nothing to do with starting.

What type of work were doing when this problem started?

It has to be something stupid simple these tractors are very reliable it always something I did when I had a problem.

I always have to play with shift from neutral to 1 (hard to shift issue)

The only other suggestion I have is to check on the jumper wire you installed on the safety switch (you need to remove this before it goes anywhere near your dealer for warranty issues) maybe the pin was pushed out on the other side from that 12 gauge wire you used any signs of oxy going on that jumper?
That's my bet..

last resort: Different Dealer
Try a tech call with a mech maybe he can do a walk through.

Johnnylight,

You pointed out some good things and I believe you that it's something stupid... I've had NO problems with this thing up until now. What I was doing before I put her away was tilling some hard pack. There was quite a bit of vibration and some bouncing, since I always hit rocks I don't see. Still, it was running okay and I was able to shift gears and engage my rear-pto with out issue.

When I put it away and came out the next day to start it, nadda. I do see the hard shift issue from time to time, in any direction, 1st, 2nd or 3rd. I messed with all ranges and still it did not start. Which two wires on your tractor came loose when you had this problem. My bet is still on the switch, but I will take a look at the seat switch, since I really didn't look it over that closely. I'll look for oxy and if the pins got pushed out or anything else. And I think talking to a mechanic instead of a service guy is a much better idea, they've seen a lot more, I'm sure! Thank you for the help!

Max

johnnylight · Sep 5, 2007

The two wires are next to the shift linkage for PTO's I can't see them in your photo's your in the right area just lower (they look like the old fuse holders).
one is connected to the rear PTO the other is the mid PTO they are pull apart type connectors--like Jinman mentioned the light for the PTO would be on if the wire was off --I would check these connections dissconect,reconnect.

BarnStangz · Sep 5, 2007

johnnylight said:
The two wires are next to the shift linkage for PTO's I can't see them in your photo's your in the right area just lower (they look like the old fuse holders).
one is connected to the rear PTO the other is the mid PTO they are pull apart type connectors--like Jinman mentioned the light for the PTO would be on if the wire was off --I would check these connections dissconect,reconnect.

I'll give that a look see... I do know when I disconnected the mid-pto the dash light came out. So when I find the others. I'll pull 'em and see what happens then plug them back in and see if I get it to start. Thank you for the reply!

Max

BarnStangz · Sep 5, 2007

Johnnylight,

Low and behold, one of the wires seemed loose. So I pushed it back in, went to start and still, nada... I was sort of tempted to unplug all of them (2 pairs) and see what lights come on, but I was running short on time. My switch should be in tomrrow, so, I'm going to try and get it from my dealer and install it. I really hope that it's the ignition switch. If not, I'll have to either let them fix it or try something else. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help!

Max

BarnStangz · Sep 6, 2007

...Well... Picked up my new ignition switch today... took the tractor apart to install it. Which wasn't too hard, but took about 20 or so minutes to get the covers off and blow out nasty dust... Hooked up the new switch... and... NOTHING! I was pretty mad. As I was hoping that the new switch would do it. The only thing I hear now is a clicking coming from a fuse or relay. I can't really tell. I'll post some more pictures.
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New in box!
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gotta love it when it's non-standard

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SWEET! New keys too! Now I have 2 spares!
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removal... I had to take off the HST pedal to remove the side...
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close up of the fuses, or would you call these relays?
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the one I'm pointing at makes a clicking noise when I go to start the tractor... is there a way for me to test this with my Fluke?
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close up of the fuse...
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...So, I guess I'll give a call to my dealer and tell them what I've found... I have a feeling I might either have to take another trip up there for some fuses or just have them pick this thing up and figure it out... Electrical problems are the worst... Why can't things ever be an easy fix...? Or maybe it is and I've over looked something.

I am going to check all safety switches and wires one more time... any other thoughts, comments or ideas would be great. Thank you in advance!

Max

6sunset6 · Sep 6, 2007

Those are relays . My operators manual has the complete electrical schmatic in it. Problem is I can hardly follow it myself but I sat down with a few colored pencils and made things a little more visable. The wire colors are on the schematic. The whole thing is 12 v and except for 2 diodes is just a set of switches. Relays are switches also just turned on by a coil instead of mechanically. ok had to go look at your pictures and then the relay locations and then the schematic. The relay you took out is the PTO safety start relay. If it was clicking then both PTO are in neutral . The next relay that must pick ( click) is the neutral start . That is the one just to the left of the one you took out. If it is not clicking then it is not getting an ok from the switch on the shifter. Or the relay is bad . hold on a sec ok all three of those relays the bigger white ones are the same part no. so you can swap two of them and see if the problem moves. The one on the right is glow plug power. If you put the one that is not working in that slot and you turn the key to the first position ,if the relay is not working you will not get the glow plug light.
But relays are sealed and pretty reliable so check the neutral switch.
I better stop before I confuse myself.