TC34DA Won't Start... Any ideas?

[BarnStangz]

Those are relays . My operators manual has the complete electrical schmatic in it. Problem is I can hardly follow it myself but I sat down with a few colored pencils and made things a little more visable. The wire colors are on the schematic. The whole thing is 12 v and except for 2 diodes is just a set of switches. Relays are switches also just turned on by a coil instead of mechanically. ok had to go look at your pictures and then the relay locations and then the schematic. The relay you took out is the PTO safety start relay. If it was clicking then both PTO are in neutral . The next relay that must pick ( click) is the neutral start . That is the one just to the left of the one you took out. If it is not clicking then it is not getting an ok from the switch on the shifter. Or the relay is bad . hold on a sec ok all three of those relays the bigger white ones are the same part no. so you can swap two of them and see if the problem moves. The one on the right is glow plug power. If you put the one that is not working in that slot and you turn the key to the first position ,if the relay is not working you will not get the glow plug light.
But relays are sealed and pretty reliable so check the neutral switch.
I better stop before I confuse myself.

Bob,

Great idea with the colored pencils. I should do that. From what you said it looks like my safety switch for the transmission is what is acting up. I'll have to unplug the wires and then maybe plug them in again, to see if there is some sort of issues. Maybe water or dirt, got in there and caused something to go ary. I don't have my book handy, but going from left to right, the gray relays, you said first was PTO, then the next one is Trans, last gray one, far right, is glow plug? I did change the PTO (first one) and Trans (2nd. one) and it still did not fire. I'm going to check the connections one more time tomorrow. I wonder if I should buzz back to my dealer and get all NEW relays just to rule things out and if all new ones don't work, then maybe it's internal or something that they should look at. What are your thoughts and thank you VERY MUCH for the insight!

Max

 

[6sunset6]

The left is the neutral start relay the the PTO then the glow plug.
If you go to the NH web site and pick parts and services and put in TC34DA and then pick the box that says tractor and then etc etc you will ecventually get to a page that shows the relays and tells you what each one does along with the part no.
How ever the item no on that page is NOT the same as the relay number
on the schematic page.
But now you can figuire out which one is which

 

[jinman]

Max, I'm afraid what you've found is not fuses. Have you checked the fuses on the front of the right-side firewall? In the first attachment, the fuses are at location #3. The second attachment shows the fuse cover removed. That first fuse at the top should be checked. You have to pull them out and look from the side to see if they are blown.

I don't mean to oversimplify, but since you were referring to the relays as fuses, I want to make sure you know how to check fuses.

 

[BarnStangz]

Guys,

Thank you again for the help. Bob, I'll look at that page you reccomended and Jinman, thank you for the pictures, they are good ones and I'm going to print them and keep them for referance. That was the first thing that I looked at were the fuses at the fire wall. I'll double check them again, but I'm pretty sure that they are all okay looking. I also checked the 30amp going to the starter and that one looked okay too. It'll be interesting what my dealer says. I'm really out of ideas here..

Thanks again guys, thanks for bearing with me one this...

Max

 

[thclimer]

Max,

These electrical issues can be very frustrating to solve especially for someone like myself who is not electrically inclined. I'm having one myself and have posted a few times under the post "Help Starting Problem" by Cardenharry. My problem now is after tearing the cowling off a few times as well as the block holing all the relays and putting it back together my issue has resolved itself which somewhat convinces me that it's a bad connection somewhere. My guess for your issues is that its a safety switch. You are getting lots of good information and by the end of all this your going to be an expert with your tractors electrical system so future issues (which we hope there will be none) will be a snap for to troubleshoot and fix.

I just pick up my non-OEM ignition switch yesterday; I bought a NAPA (Part Number KS6600). What a beast, it must weigh half a pound and its metal, looks to be much more robust than our New Holland supplied flimsy plastic one.

I'll be interested to hear what your final solution is, hang in there and good luck.

 

[BarnStangz]

Max,

These electrical issues can be very frustrating to solve especially for someone like myself who is not electrically inclined. I'm having one myself and have posted a few times under the post "Help Starting Problem" by Cardenharry. My problem now is after tearing the cowling off a few times as well as the block holing all the relays and putting it back together my issue has resolved itself which somewhat convinces me that it's a bad connection somewhere. My guess for your issues is that its a safety switch. You are getting lots of good information and by the end of all this your going to be an expert with your tractors electrical system so future issues (which we hope there will be none) will be a snap for to troubleshoot and fix.

I just pick up my non-OEM ignition switch yesterday; I bought a NAPA (Part Number KS6600). What a beast, it must weigh half a pound and its metal, looks to be much more robust than our New Holland supplied flimsy plastic one.

I'll be interested to hear what your final solution is, hang in there and good luck.

Thanks man!

Yeah, it is pretty crazy... I know stuff happens... I work on computers for a living... So, this really isn't as bad, hehe... But it is frustrating. I figure this weekend, if I have a little bit more time, which I should be able to make, I am going to go over all the safety switches, fuse block and ignition switches one more time, before I have my dealer come and pick this thing up. Part of me thinks that it still might be a safety switch, esp. the trans switches... I'm going to look at the wires leading to that switch, since they are sort of in the open at the bottom (not much protection from vibrations or brush hitting them). If one came un-hooked (which one did) and then I just shoved it back in there the problem might still be with the connection if it's dirty. So, I'm going to get out the blow gun and take care of things. The thing that troubles me, is that if is a messed up relay or something, what could have caused it, so that it does not happen again. I just don't want to have to deal with this when it's -5 out in the middle of winter and I need to get fire wood or plow my massive drive way... Either way, trouble shooting can be rewarding and if others have a problem like this (since the TC34DA isn't that old of a model) I'll be more then happy to give my $0.02. Thanks again for the encouragement!

Max

 

[johnnylight]

Max,

I think your on the right track checking the conn on the paired wire pull conn
Maybe the relay or fuse went due to jumping the starter.

Funny --I tried to recreate your situation I started pulling fuses and found 15amp blown I thought is was for my 12 volt outlet and soon as I replaced it
a alarm went off beeping 10 times --I never heard this before --I believe it's due to the parking break being off.

Did you ever check on your jumper on the safety switch?
do me a favor remove the jumper and reinstall to safety switch on seat.

One more can you tell us exactly what happens when you turn that key
are all the lights still coming on? (system check ok)
It's like your PC when she starts with the bios checking for the all clear no beeps.--no driver problems right.

 

[BarnStangz]

Max,

I think your on the right track checking the conn on the paired wire pull conn
Maybe the relay or fuse went due to jumping the starter.

Funny --I tried to recreate your situation I started pulling fuses and found 15amp blown I thought is was for my 12 volt outlet and soon as I replaced it
a alarm went off beeping 10 times --I never heard this before --I believe it's due to the parking break being off.

Did you ever check on your jumper on the safety switch?
do me a favor remove the jumper and reinstall to safety switch on seat.

One more can you tell us exactly what happens when you turn that key
are all the lights still coming on? (system check ok)
It's like your PC when she starts with the bios checking for the all clear no beeps.--no driver problems right.

HA! I liked your referance to the the BIOS posting... "1 beep, 2 beeps, 3 beeps, memory bad, no video... etc. Funny. Didn't think about it like that. When there is a problem with a computer, I like to ask if there is the "chair keyboard interface problem" hehe

Interesting about your 15amp being blown and then the tractor started beeping when you replaced it...

I will do what you stated and I also talked to my service guy and told him to let me have one more crack at it before they send out the service guy who works on the electric junk. I'm going to put the seat switch back, check all safety switches (wires, plugs, clean them, etc).

Currently, when I turn the key, I get the normal yadda... GP light, parking brake lights (stays on) GP's go out after the 5 seconds or whatever, then I got to stab at the starter and nada... Also, hazards work and so do the turn signals, head lights work too, in all modes. Thanks again for the ideas and that was EXTRA nice of you to mess with your tractor to figure things out... PLEASE don't mess up yours since it's working good! (knocks on wood) Again, many thanks!

Max

 

[dqdave1]

Main fuse located by starter was checked I assume. My only time of a no start situation was wires pulled from nuetral safety switches. Test switches.

 

[BarnStangz]

Main fuse located by starter was checked I assume. My only time of a no start situation was wires pulled from nuetral safety switches. Test switches.

dqdave,

Thanks for the info. Yes, I checked the main 40 amp by the starter and it looks fine. I'm planning on today or tomrrow to check out all safety switches. I've heard from others, including yourself that brush has pulled wires loose. I'm just going to give it another look before I have my dealer come out... Thanks again!

Max