TC35 won't start. Total silence

[navyjoe]

I went out to fire up my tractor and nothing. Not sure but maybe the ign was left on, not sure. Anyway the battery was dead as a door nail. I put a charge on the battery and now everything comes on but the starter won't engage. I put a booster battery in parallel. Total silence when I hit the starter.

I'm going to pull the glo plug fuse to stop excessive drain (80+ degrees don't need it anyway). Even though everything worked ok when I turned it off a week ago it would appear to be an interlock issue. Is there a way to bypass the interlocks switches to test?

As luck would have it we are building a new home for one lost in a tornado and I volunteered to bush hog and fill in the foundation tomorrow.

 

[navyjoe]

Ok, I thought I could pull the glo-plug fuse and prevent the glow plugs from comming on. But it is also labeled Voltage regulator, glo plug auto heat control. Is it safe to just pull that fuse or am I going to have to di it another way?

 

[Bigfoot62]

I don't know a thing about the compacts. Maybe someone will jump in shortly that can help.

I'm sure that you've double-checked that the transmission is in N, PTO not engaged, etc.

 

[navyjoe]

es, I've wigled and jiggled tmem all! But I appreciate the input.

I've looked at some schematics. It appears that the single wire to the starter/solenoid combo takes 12 volts to operate it. Anyone else agree?

If I can find my old thumb operated remote start switch that I can use while sitting in the tractors seat thats what I may try.

 

[DocHeb]

Fuse #2 Frustration (Class III Boomer)

help! moving day and tractor died

Dreaded #2 Fuse blows immediatly in TC40D

tc40 newhoalland wont start

07' TC40 starting problem

 

[navyjoe]

Thanks Chris, Lots of good info there. It got dark on me so when the sun comes up I'll check those out.

 

[jinman]

Joe, check out those things that Chris posted and then if you have to jump start the tractor, you can use your remote starter switch. Hook it to the +12 VDC at the starter and the small starter solenoid terminal. That should do it, but if your problem is in the operator safety circuit, you may not get the fuel cutoff solenoid energized. The tractor would turn over, but not start. You can also jumper 12 vdc to the fuel solenoid on the back side of the injector pump as a last resort. With both the jumper and the remote starter, the tractor should fire right up if you have a good battery.

EDIT: While you are looking around, look closely under and around the safety switches to make sure some brush hasn't snatched a wire loose. My guess from the way this happened is that there is a loose connection at one of the switches or a connector is loose.

 

[navyjoe]

KISS :laughing: KISS KISS :thumbsup: That old saying really applies.

Would you believe it was as simple as a blown fuse! F2 "Operator Safety system, Fuel solenoid".

Of course I did not have any 7.5 amp fuses, not even a 10 Amp but I do now and the spares are in the tool box!

Just a note my manual calls for a 8 amp circuit breaker in that slot but mine had a 7.5 amp fuse. When I find that breaker I will put it in instead of the fuse!

Thanks for all the help guys. The project lot is is now mowed and all the dirt mounds spread out. We are ready to put the house up this friday when all the volunteers show up.

 

[DocHeb]

When I find that breaker I will put it in instead of the fuse!

Around me, Autozone carries them, with multi-length legs that snap off to match the length of your fuses. Around $5, I believe.

 

[navyjoe]

Yes, I found me a 10amp, with the break off legs for a custom fit for $3.99 at O"reily and Autozone. So I'm going to retrofit the breaker the next time.