TC40D fuel problem

Hieronymous · Mar 30, 2016

RDrancher said:
I'm do not have the diagnostic skills of Jinman (Our shared NH service manager called him for help a few times) but I know where I'd start. I'd jump the seat switch first and rule it out as the cause. Then I'd check that all of the safety switches are traveling far enough and then check all of the associated wiring. The PTO linkage on mine tends to vibrate into gear while running. I use this "feature" as a a sort of anti-theft device. The ignition switch is also known to be a no-start, shut off problem. There is a little black box hanging under the dash that I remember Jinman having me check for a no-start. What the box is I can't remember.

Thanks. I probably don't have the diagnostic skills of either of you when it comes to electrical faults!!

My PTO switch is, also, a bit 'fickle. I have to physically hold the lever back in order to be able to start.

Further research suggests the starter solenoid can be responsible for fuses blowing so I guess I'll have to go over it with a fine toothcomb since there appear to be a number of possibilities.

I'm still at a bit of a loss as to why the fuse block has been put in the wrong way round. And somewhat nonplussed at the 're-wiring'!

As for your little black box I remember reading about an 'Operator Safety Module'. Could that be it?

Hieronymous · Mar 30, 2016

Something has just occurred to me. The battery on the tractor had seen better days so I got a new one. However, the guy at the dealers was a little unsure as to which battery was appropriate. Is it possible that I have too strong a battery? As I recall there is a number '017' on it.

Time to look at the parts catalogue I think.

EDIT: Well, that proved to be a waste of time. "Procure locally" it said. I suppose that answers my question anyway.

RDrancher · Mar 30, 2016

Yep, operator safety module. That sounds right. The fuse box being upside down is a concern, but it may have been like that since new. Both boxes on my T320 are like that and backwards from the diagram. Maybe they're not though, since the only way to read them is with my head in the cab upside down.

Just throwing things out there, but have you replaced the big honking main fuse on the side of the engine? I'd remove the frame ground from the battery and clean that too. Mine looked fine, but when I removed the bolt it was rusted almost in half.

Qapla · Mar 30, 2016

Due to the issues with all the safety switches I installed a relay to actually start the tractor. This way the safety switches are still active . even though they don't pass enough power to engage the starter, they will trip the relay.

Hieronymous · Mar 30, 2016

Cheers RD. The 40 amp main fuse is fine. Like I said I'll go through it with a fine toothcomb. I've left a message with our contractor so we can arrange to get the tractor back to our place where I can work on it at leisure as it were.

Hieronymous · Mar 30, 2016

Qapla said:
Due to the issues with all the safety switches I installed a relay to actually start the tractor. This way the safety switches are still active . even though they don't pass enough power to engage the starter, they will trip the relay.

Thanks. Is this the one posted by, I think, SteveMD?

I've downloaded that so I may install it once I've got over this **** hurdle.

Hieronymous · Mar 31, 2016

How embarrassing!

How acutely embarrassing!

How excruciatingly embarrassing!!

I felt that bloody foolish I contemplated not telling you guys but you were good enough to try to help so I owe it to you really.

Despite having checked - or so I thought - that the tractor wasn't in gear, it was!!

Nor was it blowing fuses. I was looking for the wavy link between the terminals but on closer, more careful inspection I find that they are straight.

How foolish do I feel?

Anyway, got the tractor started and let it run whilst stationary for a while and everything seemd to be in order.

Consequently I decided to finish off aerating the pitch. I hadn't gone more than a couple of yards when it died on me again.

I tried to bleed it but fuel wasn't coming through.

I contacted our contractor who, as it happened, was passing nearby so he called in to see if he could help. Something he might be regretting now!!

He blew into the fuel tank to try to force the fuel through the pipe. Instead it fought back and drownded him!! :laughing:

Shouldn't laugh really but it's difficult not to.

Anyway that pretty much convinced him that there's a blockage in the tank.

Later today I'll take my compressor up and blow back into the tank with the airline. Hopefully that'll sort it once and for all.

Many thanks to everyone who tried to help.

Qapla · Mar 31, 2016

If there is gunk in the tank just blowing the line clear will not cure the problem. You will have to remove the tank, drain and clean it. Otherwise, the gunk will find it's way back into the fuel lines.

Then, after re-installing the tank, start with fresh fuel.

Believe me - been there, done that.....

Hieronymous · Apr 1, 2016

Qapla said:
If there is gunk in the tank just blowing the line clear will not cure the problem. You will have to remove the tank, drain and clean it. Otherwise, the gunk will find it's way back into the fuel lines.

Then, after re-installing the tank, start with fresh fuel.

Believe me - been there, done that.....

I have no doubt that you are correct. Can't say I feel very enthusiastic about it though.

As I said earlier I'd take a photo of the, erm, 're-wiring' so you could see what I'm faced with. Don't know what went on with the previous owner but this is what I've got now: