TC45DA drain cock on cylinder block

[Sigogglin]

It is part 87301397 You can see it on messicks parts diagram as #28.

New Holland (TC45DA) - 4 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR (5/5-5/7) Parts Diagrams


It is a small drain cock on the side of the block above the oil filter. Anyone know what the purpose of this is?

Mine is dripping antifreeze.

thanks
david

 

[Ford850]

Likely used to drain block (in addition to draining radiator) when replacing coolant.

 

[Coyote machine]

It is part 87301397 You can see it on messicks parts diagram as #28.

New Holland (TC45DA) - 4 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR (5/5-5/7) Parts Diagrams


It is a small drain cock on the side of the block above the oil filter. Anyone know what the purpose of this is?

Mine is dripping antifreeze.

thanks
david

Purpose: to drain coolant, or to leak it when you don't want it to. :confused3:
If it's leaking from the end of the 'pipe' threads I'd see if a metal tire cap from a tire air fill valve would fit the threads. (Most any tire store should have them). If so clean the threads put some Teflon tape on the clean threads and then put the metal cap on and see if it stops leaking. If you can't get something to cap the fitting and stop if from leaking best bet would be to drain the coolant into a clean container while the engine is cold and not running, then plug the hole with the proper thread plug and when you change coolant undo the plug until all coolant is out. Then use same plug, reinsert it before filling the radiator with coolant and check for leaks after air is bled off from entire cooling system.

 

[Sigogglin]

it is leaking out the drain. I've tried tightening it and it still drips.

I'd hate to have to drain anything out this as it is only 1/4" in diameter.

david

 

[Ford850]

I think you meant part number SBA198736270. Looks like this?

 

[Sigogglin]

Yes, that. I guess I cut-n-pasted the wrong thing.

 

[Ford850]

Here's another thread discussing that same part on the smaller TC33. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-coolant-leak-question-tc33d.html#post3909938
It was mentioned there about the thread size being BSPT not NPT.

 

[Sigogglin]

Mine doesn't have a hose attached to it.

I've thought about attaching a hose and have it "drain" back into the coolant overflow tank

 

[ruffdog]

If you just tighten the valve stopper bolt and not cinch the lock nut, they tend to not leak as much. The lock nut slightly pulls the bolt back some....try to snug both at the same time.

 

[Coyote machine]

I think you meant part number SBA198736270. Looks like this?

To the OP: if the part shown by Ford850 is the part, you're saying the nipple pointing down is where the coolant is leaking from? If so, you can try what was suggested by the poster who suggested snugging up the brass colored screw, after loosening the locknut, to allow the screw's plunger/washer to seat better, thus solving your problem. Otherwise if it still leaks, I'd put a small length of fuel line or similar on the drain tube and then stick a golf tee or a small bolt wrapped in Teflon tape; then apply a cable tie to the hose to keep the bolt in place. Check for leaks, if none, check it regularly.

 

[mweir2]

A good discussion. I have some experience with my old TC48DA to report, which uses that same SBA... valve pictured earlier. For your consideration:
Not using the lock nut does/did help some with the coolant weep.
The hex is 27mm or 1 1/16 inch; wrenches of both sizes will work.
The thread pitch appears to be 14 TPI, matching NPT or BSP.
The valve will thread a short distance into a 3/4 NPT fitting.
Removing the original one is HARD. I had cut a slot in a deep socket to clear the drain nipple, but broke off the side branch of the tee when the socket slipped off the fitting. That turned out to be a Good Thing, as the torque required to loosen and remove the fitting would probably have spread the modified socket beyond usability, or broken it. I suggest breaking off the side branch to start so you can get a socket on. It required all the force I could apply at the end of an 18" breaker bar to loosen the fitting, and to continue turning it for several turns. It would be a good idea to buy a flank drive (was a Snap-On patent, I think, but now seems available from Kobalt and others) type socket if you need to buy one, as the corners are well distorted with a plain 6-point deep socket - but it did work. I was quite afraid it would round off.
There's a lot of ...stuff... in the threads. I doubt it's corrosion, but suspect Shibaura's original thread sealant.
I did use the modified socket to install the new fitting, without cleaning out the block threads as I didn't have a suitable tap, but using several turns of teflon tape.
It seems leak free.
In view of the cost, I think if there's a "next time" I'll use NPT pipe fittings and a conventional block/radiator drain as others have posted.

 

[dieselscout80]

Here's another thread discussing that same part on the smaller TC33. Coolant leak question TC33D
It was mentioned there about the thread size being BSPT not NPT.

I’m not sure it’s BSPT as my 3/4” NPT worked to clear/clean the threads and I turned it with my fingers without a wrench.

However, the BSPT 3/4” adapter to 1/2” female pipe threaded in just fine too.