Dirt Moving Techniques To Leveling Dirt

[4570Man]

Is the lot freshly cleared? If so dealing with the roots is harder than actually leveling it.

 

[airbiscuit]

It would be nice if the OP would come back on, describe in more detail his project, and maybe include some pics.

 

[Egon]

GAUGE WHEELS!

If doing more or less straight runs, I will use the 3 point angle blade and set angle at 45 and do passes down the road and that will usually shave off the high spots and then reverse angle to other side and roll the material back in the other direction.

If trying to do leveling in field I use the box scraper with the rippers just barely touching the ground when level and use that to hit the mounds and tops of humps.

For pads I angle the blade closer to straight then 45 with the outward edge slightly higher and start in center of pad and drive in a outward spiral circle casting the excess dirt outward and have had good results that way.

David

I understand floating would improve flattening and if not it will move in relation to tractor wheels as you said, but why I have I not seen one single box blade dragged via a chain to completely avoid any tractor induced up or down movement?
I mentioned to a friend of mine that I wanted to build a box blade and he suggested I just use an old mattress spring after burning off foam or chain fence section. How do these cheap alternatives compare in finished result? I like the more refined look of a solid straight edged box blade and think the weight would assist in flattening compacted hills with grass and weeds on it. I already have an adjustable height dethatcher with wheels and thinking I could skip the box blade teeth and just build a heavy steel box then drag it with a short chain right off the back of the dethatcher. If an angle is wanted, just change the length of chain on one side. Wouldn't this route theoretically give just as good if not better results and much much cheaper cost?

Draging a heavy timber works.

 

[Xfaxman]

I've had a fair amount of success using a box blade on the 3 point and floating it rather than keeping it at a fixed height relative to the tractor.
My Kubota doesn't have a detent on the 3 point control like the FEL does, so I usually just hold it down or use a bungee if I'm doing a lot of
grading.

Floating the blade keeps it from digging in when the tractor pitches on the rough ground. Perhaps you could do something similar with your
back blade?

I know there are some 3 point hitches made with down pressure, but I have never had one on a tractor.

The ones that I have used have a built in mechanical float. Just hold the lever down until you hear the relief valve open, let go, the attachment can then freely move up or down throughout the travel of the lift arms.

You can test yours with no attachment on the 3 point, hold the lever down until you hear the relief valve open, let go, then grab the end of a lift arm and pull up, both will raise to the upper limit and not stay there.

 

[Wolfy]

I have had good luck using a landscape rake while driving in random circles. As others have mentioned, the length of the top length greatly affects the grading action. However, most important is that the rake needs wheels. And the ground needs some moisture in it.

 

[airbiscuit]

I have had good luck using a landscape rake while driving in random circles. As others have mentioned, the length of the top length greatly affects the grading action. However, most important is that the rake needs wheels. And the ground needs some moisture in it.

Again, Gauge Wheels make a huge difference.

 

[bmarshall1]

Hey Guys - thanks for all the great replies. Here's a little more info... on a newly purchased home in SW Florida the soil runs from very sandy and loose to hard pack marle (sp?) of almost a concrete consistency. We had about 2 of 4 ares cleared with a giant bobcat mounted grinder. There is a lot of roots and ground down stumps from the clearing efforts. I purchased a RR to drag the 'mulch' into low spots and will be eventually bringing in some top soil and that's what will be needing leveled. I will likely not try to level the current ground except for the really high spots.

It's a Hawse bx bade with front and back blades but no rakes. The high to low spots may only be about 2-3 feet difference over the course of 30 feet, more wavy and rolling than anything else, if I can figure out how to add pix I will do so. I like the angle blade idea and starting on a small flat spot, of going in circles or fig. 8's.Te 3 point has lower 'dogleg' links kept from swinging around by 2 turnbuckles (no hydro top link).

 

[airbiscuit]

That is helpful information. Attach pics later if you can. I am guessing your box blade is set up for scarifiers, even it they are missing. They aren't all that expensive to buy from places like Rural King, Tractor Supply, etc. I think they would really help you with your project.

 

[daveknowshow]

find your neutral position for the box blade so its not going down all the time. set you down feed speed to slow so once the bo goes over a high spot it will stay up longer as you drive over the low spot dumping what it picked up from the high spot into the low spot. see my video on the box blade here. THE BOX BLADE - YouTube

and my latest video on leveling the three point hitch here how to level your three point hitch the easy way! - YouTube

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Draging a heavy timber works.

Only on plowed or rototilled ground, if it has not been disturbed then the clay will need to be shaved down here, the heavy timber will just bounce around. The box scraper requires the ripper to be dropped to rip the ground otherwise cutting is minimal.

David