Terramite parts sources?

[Pacifictimes]

Hey 2manyrocks, (in my case I think their in my head :O)
I went to put new seals in one of my outrigger cylinders and could not get it apart. I pounded (plastic hammer) the plate on the end with the holes but the locking wire never came out? What next?
Dave ( hoe2work4u@yahoo.com)

 

[oldhippy]

You can get an adjustable spanner wrench for the end of cylinders. One half turn and the wire should come out and the plug will then come out. When you replace the seals I found that it is good to rebuild the whole cylinder. The fluid can leak by the rings sort of a internal leak. I replaced the rings on the pistons and could not tell any differance but on the curl cylinder it helped a lot. You can get the rebuild kit from a local hyd shop or from terrimite.. You will need a 400lb Impact wrench to take the nut off the rod. Hope this helps big dan

 

[Terrasteve]

You can get an adjustable spanner wrench for the end of cylinders. One half turn and the wire should come out and the plug will then come out. When you replace the seals I found that it is good to rebuild the whole cylinder. The fluid can leak by the rings sort of a internal leak. I replaced the rings on the pistons and could not tell any differance but on the curl cylinder it helped a lot. You can get the rebuild kit from a local hyd shop or from terrimite.. You will need a 400lb Impact wrench to take the nut off the rod. Hope this helps big dan

Dan thanks for the info I have a cylinder that is leaking and was curious as to how the cylinder came apart myself.

 

[oldhippy]

I only knlow about the t5c the larger machines may work differently. There are two different sized cylinders on thet machine.

 

[Pacifictimes]

Hey Dan, thanks so much for your time taken to write. I do have another question now though (just like a 5 year old huh :O) So I've spun the end and the wire did not come out, now what? Do I need to tap it in further to catch something inside when turning the end peice?

 

[oldhippy]

/When I spun the end the wire came out and the end sliped out. If the end of the cylinder is bent over or mushroomed in towards the center this could keep the plug from coming out. It seems like one of my cylinders was buggered up on end and had to grind on it a little. Will the plug spin all the way around? bigdan

 

[arcamm]

If the wire is completly out of the cylinder, the plug will spin all the way around.

 

[oldhippy]

I notice that the cylinder that you are working on is a outrigger one. We I rebuilt mine it was to much trouble to remove the out rigger ones so left them attached to tractor. You can pull on the end of rod once the wire is out and pull out rod and retainer. While you are rebuilding the cylinder you can crank the tractor and move it just don't move the levers going to whatever cylinder that you have apart. big dan

 

[trowel4]

Is there any changeabilty between Terramite and lay mor?

 

[philwarner]

Are there any sources for Terramite parts besides having to deal with Terramite directly? I have been dealing direct with them on some parts and I cant believe how horrible and unresponsive they are. They are almost painful to deal with. I would gladly pay a few extra bucks for parts from a source that actually wanted to deal with me.

Wow, this thread spans a lot of time, but if you Terramite guys are still around I still have a problem with my 96 T5Cs brakes. I bought new parts from Terramite and sent them this email back in 2007:

"I've spent two days trying to install the new brake band I purchased from you and am a bit frustrated by the experience. I used the updated spring and spring bracket (a real PITA to get in place) and thought all would be well once I finally got everything tightened in place, but the drum is offset to the rear from the pivot mount for the band and the brake band simply slides forward off the rounded edge of the drum. Inspecting the old band I suspect it did the same thing, perhaps from new, and it eventually wore off the cable attachment end.

I was going to try removing 1/4" from the face of the permanent part of the band lower pivot so I could move the band back to better align with the drum, but it was too hard for a saw blade and the area too cramped to get a grinder in. Then I thought I might shift the drum forward by removing the four bolts and placing spacers between the drum and the flange, but I could not get the drum to move even with the bolts removed. It also appears the drum may be the driving member between the hydraulic motor and the differential flange; is it?

This looks like a day one deviation with the drum offset from the band mounting resulting in the band slipping forward off the drum, and there does not seem to be any method to adjust either to get the band aligned with the drum. I called the parts department yesterday to ask if the drum was originally rounded like that or if it might have worn that way, and the fellow said it was originally rounded and has now been superseded by a welded drum.

I really want to have the safety factor of a brake in case of power loss and for parking, but I've had to remove the band again since it just won't stay in place. Please advise what I can do to get this brake to work, I've exhausted my ideas. Below are pictures of the band as installed and as it is tightened and slips off the drum."

I never heard back from this 2007 email or from a followup I sent in 2010. Any suggestions on how to get working brakes on this machine?

 

[philwarner]

As a follow-up, I emailed Terramite again and did get a reply which suggested "you need a new brake drum

part number 57034 $58.84."

So....anyone else have a problem with the brake drum with the rounded edge? From the worn out end of the original brake band I'd guess it had always slipped over the edge and didn't work from new, and the "welded drum" was Terramite's fix for an original design problem.

 

[sacsr]

As a follow-up, I emailed Terramite again and did get a reply which suggested "you need a new brake drum

part number 57034 $58.84."

So....anyone else have a problem with the brake drum with the rounded edge? From the worn out end of the original brake band I'd guess it had always slipped over the edge and didn't work from new, and the "welded drum" was Terramite's fix for an original design problem.

Thanks for the info on the brake drum. I found my companion flange assembly is damaged (2 bolts are gone and the tips on the flange are broken off) so I will be replacing it - I also have a 96 model so while I am under the machine will check to see if I need to order that as well. Previous owner had unhooked the brake completely. Based on all the comments on this forum, I better put a full list together and but it all st one time due to the high shipping costs.

 

[Ryck]

For used engine(s) parts I go regularly to a couple of local metal recycling yards and buy the engines and various parts by the pound usually no more than .20 cents a pound, but prices are subject to change. I have 2 extra 20hp Kohler engines and 1 18hp B&S backup engines. I plan to post other part info here as well.
Cheers,
Ryck

 

[sacsr]

Great idea on the motors. I am going to pick up a 20hp Kohler with about 400 hours that I plan on shelving till I need it. Mine probably has well over 2500 hours so figure it will go sooner than later. This was reasonably priced so hard to turn down.

 

[philwarner]

Thanks for the info on the brake drum. I found my companion flange assembly is damaged (2 bolts are gone and the tips on the flange are broken off) so I will be replacing it - I also have a 96 model so while I am under the machine will check to see if I need to order that as well. Previous owner had unhooked the brake completely. Based on all the comments on this forum, I better put a full list together and but it all st one time due to the high shipping costs.

advice from Scott, "... I ask for Eric in the service department. He is much easier to work with and really knowledgable on these tractors." so I'll give Eric a call.

In the meantime I've not been able to get to www.terramite.com. Anyone know if they've changed or taken down their web site? I was hoping to find a better parts listing for my T5C as the one I have doesn't even show the guard for the bucket cylinder. Also, is there any sort of maintenance manual for these machines? I bought the operator's manual but it seems hand signals and decal placement are the most important things to know - not how to fix the darn thing. And finally, does the bucket pin just hammer out? Mine didn't want to move at all and I was concerned about just getting a bigger hammer until I was sure.

 

[Terrasteve]

I think terramite only has the operators manual and the parts manual. I have been unable to find anything that explaines how to repair one of these things. On the bucket pin soak it good with some pb blaster,remove the holding nut and it should hammer out. I went throu most of the pins on mine last summer,some came right out while other's took a little work to get free'd up so that hey would slide out. They have a tight tollerence so any built up rust or dirt and hardend grease will make them difficult to remove.

 

[Ryck]

Hi All, I am trying to locate an aftermarket backhoe curl hydraulic cylinder for my 2001 t5c, mine has the extra linkage on the bucket. The measurements I took are 27 inches retracted from the center of the mounting hole to the center of the mounting hole on the bucket linkage and 44 inches extended. If anyone has replaced theirs please share the info as soon as I find a replacement and will post my source when I do find one.
Cheers,
Ryck

 

[Jannige]

I need to replace the gas & choke cables and have oil leaking down the steering column. Would like advice on replacement parts. I'm a new owner of an old machine. Jannige

 

[Alexhasson]

I'm not completely familiar with every tractor but I can provide advice if you post pictures of your issues.

 

[the old grind]

Jannige, I've got the same fluid leakage from the column. It started by having no center cap on the steering wheel (since before I bought mine). Water leaks in from outside storage & rusts the shaft, which takes out its upper bushing. A bulge in the outer column says that water has frozen inside it. The following applies to offset-column T5Cs:

Once the shaft starts to wobble a 'face' seal, where the shaft goes into the steering box, leaks & allows the column to fill with hydro. It's about 1" x 1/8" and (if you have the offset column too) WE are in a bit of trouble there. I sent for the seal. $42 and another $14 to have it sent by FedEx (mailed by the bums) in a 8x12 bubble envelope.

The column has to come out, but the wheel must come off to replace the seal or bushing. (That's where I'm hung up, & Kroil-soaking for months isn't freeing-up the wheel's spline.) If you get that far, don't just take the column OR box apart without calling TerraQuip. A guy there will talk you through disassembly, which if done wrong will spill parts you'd never get back together, much less the right way.

Since the offset steering box is no longer available, these would replace what's on the old models (while available):
Surplus Center - 5.9 CU IN CHARLYNN 211-1008 NLR STEERING VALVE (non load reacting)
Surplus Center - 18" CHARLYNN 204-1015 STEERING COLUMN
A new wheel would be needed too, and maybe some bracketing to mount the box at the bottom.

My 'bubba' alternative in the meantime ... would be to install a clamp-over valve (icemaker tap) and a catch can for the oil to keep it from trickling out the top & off my britches-leg. (Haven't gone there yet.) PM me if you want more about it.

As you know, Terramite is under new ownership as of earlier this year. In the past, they've been quite good about parts (not prices) & the same guys are likely there to help. PM me for other stuff if you like. (A new tractor makes the T5C my 'tinker' toy for now & I'm 'all over it'. )