Testing a well pump

   / Testing a well pump #11  
With a control box you have a 3 wire pump.
Wires should be yellow, red and black
For 1/2 HP 110 volt readings are: B-Y1.3 ohms,R-Y 4.7 ohms, B-R 6 ohms.
For 1/2 HP 230 ............................ 5.2 ............19.6...............24.8

Since I have the charts, if this does not fit your specs, PM me with the HP and voltage and I'll fwd the info.

Good luck!
and PS all those submergables are run with Franklin Motors
And from your description you need a new tank. (probably not a pump, but maybe a control/resay box for the pump). Newer models use diode switching rather than mechanical relays that eat up the relay contacts.
 
   / Testing a well pump #12  
Elmer, As it is now the relay will click on and off steadily about few seconds . Also i should add this pump has seen way to many starts and stops. The air bladder in the tank has been without air for a few years. This is my sisters , and she refused to listen to me when I told her about the tank. ( thats another issue lol). So Ive Thanks again and keept he responces coming im learning

A new tank would have a place to hook up an air compressor or tire pump and add air to it if needed. Does you tank have that and if so, did you check the pressure in it with a tire gauge or try to add some air?

Wes
 
   / Testing a well pump
  • Thread Starter
#13  
OK< Well after allot of considerations and the overall age of the pump system. I decided to pull it out and replace with a two wire 220 colt unit.Well I got it opened up and put my removal tool down to the pitiless adapter, and pulled it upward.
It went nice and free for about 5 or 6 feet then jammed. I lowered a flashlight down and found that the static level was 25 feet. so still not sure just how deep it is but its jammed real tight. I couldn't even get it to move downward either.
My friend thinks that the anti torq rubber thingy moved and is holding it back.The next step is a tripod and yank it up wards with a come along. I'm a bit scared to do this but Ill have to . I hope the pump rips off and settles to the bottom.It is possible it just need that little bit more of pull Its difficult to get much leverage by hand standing over it.I have done a few pumps and never had this trouble, so I'm not sure if the pros have an occasional tough pull one like this. so thats where i am at this point. and suggestions or experiences are really appreciated.
 
   / Testing a well pump #14  
You need to repalce the pressure tank also. If the bladder is bad and there is no pressure difference. Then the pump runs against a tremendous load when a faucet is turned on and just a little water is being used. The thing is designed for the pump to be able to flo at near full capacity into the tank and then shut off. I would suspect the thing has been running against high pressure because the tank is bad when just one sink or commode is running. Guaranteed to burn the pump up.
 
   / Testing a well pump #15  
You need to stop right there. I say this for several reasons.

First, your pump/motor might not be bad. Even though it was short cycled for too long that doesn't automatically mean that it is a bad pump. Your pressure switch may not be making good contact, or your control box might be the culprit. As you stated, a control box costs $60. If you don't know the HP of your pump you can put a 1-HP (common size) and it should run a 1 HP down to a 1/2 HP pump OK. You need to make sure that you have 230V (or 110V if it is a 100V pump) going to the box when the pressure switch is engaged. Look at the pressure switch/contacts and box. Smell them (make sure the power is off!). Sometimes you can smell a blown capacitor/relay etc. Franklin control boxes can be easily swapped because the lids are interchangable. Unbolt the lid and put the new lid in place. The guts are in the lid, the base only has connectors. Easily swapped.

Second, if there is a problem with the pump/motor, it will have to be changed out. There is no problem with pulling your own submersible pump but a stuck pump is a serious problem. Your local water well repairman may know something you don't know about getting the pump out. Is there a pitless adapter? What kind of hardware is attached to the line etc? You may need to go down with the pump in order to get it unstuck. If it is hung on plastic it might be a tricky proposition to get it unstuck.

A pump stuck in a well might be a big enough problem to have to have a new well drilled unless it can either be fished or forced all the way down. If you make the problem worse you will only end up spending more money to make it right.
 
   / Testing a well pump
  • Thread Starter
#16  
thanks everyone for the insight
It turned out to have just needed a harder pull to remove it. and I found the motor to be locked up. so replaced the whole pump.
Thanks again always learning
 

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