That Never Ending T&T Path!

[Henro]

Final configuration for assembly. The O-rings come with each valve section in a little bag like you see in this picture.

 

[Henro]

After beating the issue of where I was going to position my control valve, I decided to mount it overhead neat the top of my ROPS, under the head protector. I do not foresee the need to ever fold my ROPS so this will work OK for me. I fabricated a mounting bracket that would hold the valve. Here it is before painting.

 

[Henro]

Control valve assembled and primed, waiting for a coat of black paint. The mounting bracket is ready to be bolted on the tractor. Things are progressing nicely, albeit slowly.

 

[Henro]

Control valve mounted in what I know is an unconventional position. It was OK, but the handles were a little close to my head. I decided to move it towards the back by about seven inches. This distance was determined by the spacing of the mounting holes on the valve. The valve has been hanging there for a couple weeks now and I don’t notice it at all, so I think it will work fine there.

Now it is almost counterintuitive that a valve put in this position would be functional. But when I twist around to look back and test it, my hand hangs comfortably there so I am hopeful it will work fine for me.

One thing we should all keep in mind is that when the tractor is working, the hydraulic fluid gets quite hot and can burn skin off pretty easily. I will have all my hoses shielded in some fashion, and plan on fabricating a guard in front of the hoses on the valve assembly as well, to deflect a leak should one occur. This is something I would do even if the valve and hoses were down on the fender, but it is even more important to do it when the valve and hoses are elevated like I am doing.

 

[Henro]

The valve and mounting bracket were taken back off and an extra piece of 0.25 x 2 inch flat bar was welded on, so the valve could be shifted towards the back. A simple enough modification really, and the net result is a great improvement from what I can see.

 

[Henro]

The control valve in its new position. From what I can see it will be perfect here. I can still reach it easily from the ground when standing beside the tractor, and it is back far enough that it is totally out of the way as far as possible interference with my head goes.

 

[Henro]

This picture is specific to Kubota B2910 and B7800 owners, It shows the return-to-tank point on the side of the tractor. It is a bit congested there on my tractor due to the cruise control assembly. I ended up taking the return hose from the loader off, and putting a run tee on the fitting, then re-threaded the hose from the loader up between some linkages and it seems to be fine that way. Here is a pic of the starting point.

 

[Henro]

The Tee is in place and the original hose hooked back up. The 90 degree side of the tee is capped until I get ready to hook up the return hose from the new valve.

 

[Henro]

The hoses to/from the control valve will run inside 3” ABS plastic pipe. Two reasons for this. One is protection of the hoses themselves. The second is protection of me should a hose break/puncture. I certainly do not want a 180 degree hot oil shower!

 

[Henro]

I’m actually not yet sure exactly how I will shield the hoses in this location, but this is the prototype. I plan on using bulkhead fittings across the back of the tractor, behind and slightly below the seat. The hoses from the control valve will terminate there, and on the backside I will have a row of quick disconnects to which the hoses from the cylinders will attach.

It is my intention to have the control valve section with float available for use with either the top link or a tilt cylinder. I can see some worth using float on the top link when brush hogging, or possibly using float with a landscape rake or rear blade (when snow plowing). Time will tell.

More to follow (soon I hope)

 

[KennyV]

WoW…Very slick… You should have extreme angle variation with both lower links adjustable… You will have to post a picture of a blade at its extremes … KennyV.

 

[MadReferee]

Bill, nice job. However I question the placement of your valve block and how cumbersome it will or might be to actually use it in real world work situations.

Hey, whatever floats your boat. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Bird]

Bill, like the MadReferee said, personally, I wouldn't like your placement of the valve and levers, but that's just personal preference. And the rest of your project really looks great.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> I question the placement of your valve block and how cumbersome it will or might be to actually use it in real world work situations. </font>

I know the feeling... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I mounted it there after much consideration, and actually have had it there for a couple weeks and before ordering my hoses, I have a great number of times turned around and played like I was using the T&T setup (must have looked strange to the geese...or the neighbor if he happened to be looking... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ) and it just felt "good."

What I don't know is how much time one needs to keep his hand on a cortol lever normally. If I end up wanting to change the position of a cylinder every five minutes or so, I believe I will be satisfied with this setup. If it turns out that those with T&T are constantly changing postion of their cylinders, like every five seconds for hours at a time...I'll probably start looking like one of those lobsters with a large claw and a small claw... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Don't think I want that... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

It will be interesting to see if postioning that valve like that turns out to be a major blunder or asset. I believe it will be the latter but will not know obviously until a while after I get some T&T hours under my belt...or is the proper term "under my butt?" /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MadReferee]

Depending on what you are doing you could be adjusting every 15-20 seconds or every 5 minutes. Depends on the job and on the terrain. When I was doing my yard I had to adjust the TL at least twice a minute or more until I got the land relatively flat.

With the snowblower I adjust the chute every pass which is a couple of minutes.

So, if you got an arthritic shoulder it could get a lot worse or it could be just a little nagging pain. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[sneaky_pete]

Great project Henro, thanks a bunch for taking all the pictures and posting everything. Can't wait to see how all the hoses hook up and see it all work.

Pete

 

[PineRidge]

Henro nice project and from what I see very nice bead on your welds. I might question the placement of the control valve myself but in the end you only have to please yourself. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I hope it works out for you as it certainly adds to the Mad Max look. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Cliff_Johns]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to put together this terrific picture essay. Very informative, especially the thought process you went through. It's so helpful knowing the reasons for why you've done things they way you did. It's posts like these that make TBN a great place to be.

Cliff

 

[bmac]

Henro,

Are you and Harv distant relatives or something? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif You each have exceptional skills (I know, Harv, you call it luck) at fabrication, yet you both take these skills to another level by (and I really am tired of this phrase, but it fits here) "thinking outside of the box". Solving problems in unique ways to meet your particular needs.

Bill, if you get bored this winter, I'll ship my TC29 up your way and you can do all the modifications you would like to. Kind of like Monster Garage. (Hey, Harv - What could be better for your Monster Garage audition tape than you and Bill doing a makeover of my CUT?) Of course, with you to conspiring, I might get a nitro-powered Zamboni with a 300 lb. Texas-shaped rock as a hood ornament. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Not that there's anything wrong with that. But I probably wouldn't have much use for it in Georgia.

Again, nice job, Bill.

 

[Cacinok]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I’m actually not yet sure exactly how I will shield the hoses in this location, but this is the prototype. )</font>

Bill,

You might want to look into Header Wrap used by the car guys to wrap their headers to help reduce heat under the hood. I don't know how well this would stop a spurting hydraulic line, but I imagine if you overlapped the wrap, then it would prevent the spray effect that you're trying to avoid. This would also help reduce the heat coming off of the hoses also.

Clint.