That Never Ending T&T Path!

   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Fabricating an end for the cylinder end of the tilt cylinder. This fork is square, but will angle in one direction due to the way the clevis ends were cut off at the base end of the cylinder.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Fork for the base end of the cylinder welded up and ready for the hole to be drilled, and then to be welded on the cylinder base.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#13  
The cylinder-rod-end needs to angle in two directions. One way is backwards toward the tractor, and the other is angled towards the lower link arms. The backward angle is set into the fork itself. The cylinder rod will be cut on an angle to provide for the angle needed with respect to the lower arm.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#14  
The wooden spacer chars a bit due to the heat of welding, but that is a non-issue and it sure makes keeping the alignment right easy.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Double-checking the angles before cutting off the rod end clevis.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Fork welded on the rod end of one of the tilt cylinders.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Test fit of the completed cylinders.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
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#18  
Completed cylinders waiting for installation.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Next step was deciding on a control valve. I actually tried to find a parker valve like met kit sells (http://www.metkit.com/catalog_conval.htm), but in the end I went with a Prince sectional valve.

It became quite an involved process for me to decide what I actually wanted to buy. I bought into the need for pilot-operated check valves of some kind. I also realized that hydraulic hoses and fittings are pretty expensive, so I set a goal of simplifying my system as much as possible to reduce cost. On top of that I wanted to have an extra remote, in addition to what I needed for my T&T, and since I was already using three cylinders for the T&T, that meant four control valve sections.

After much torment, I FINALLY decided on using three Prince control valves sections that have built in pilot operated check valves, and one section without the check valves but with a float position. It looked like separate pilot operated check valves would cost about $60 each, and I was able to buy three surplus valves sections from Prince, with the pilot operated check valves built in, for $74 each. This simplified the set up somewhat, as I would now have no need to figure out where to mount separate check valves.

The Prince sectional control valves are actually pretty simple in construction and assembly. Before doing it I did not have a clue as to what might be involved. I am including a series of photos showing what these things are about. I would have been interested in seeing these kinds of photos before I purchased the stuff. Hope some of you guys are interested!

The Prince sectional control valve is made up of three parts. An inlet section, an outlet section, and working sections that are placed between them. This first picture shows the inlet and outlet sections. And the power beyond plug that goes into the outlet section if you want the power beyond feature.

The thing to note is that one surface of each section has o-rings, and the other surface is smooth. These surfaces mate up, and you would get a good seal if you put these two sections together. But without a working section in the middle, it would be a useless exercise to do so. Between these two sections the working sections are placed. Each working section has a smooth side and an O-ring side. The three holes without O-rings are for the rods that hold the assembly together.

Following pictures will show the working sections and things will make more sense.
 

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   / That Never Ending T&T Path!
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I bought four working sections as I mentioned above. The section with float is the shorter one. The three with pilot-operated check valves built in are taller.

As a side note, I should say I was torn between buying these sections with the check valves in them, or using separate check valves. The reason is because these valves are motor control valves and as such, they do not act exactly like a normal control valve. If the check valves in one of these sections would fail, the valve would act like it was in a float position, and that would not be very desirable. But the person I spoke with at Prince told me they sell a lot of these to backhoe operators, for use with backhoe stabilizers, to hold them in position and prevent drift down. So on this word I finally decided that buying these work sections would simplify what I was trying to accomplish.

Before putting my valve together, I decided to put the float section on one end rather than in the position it is shown in this photo.
 

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