The guy that put the engine internals together says "The rings are not seated yet end the smoking is normal. Just give it a couple hours of work"

[TomSam]

Do you have a list of everything that was done to the engine?

Bored? Honed? New Sleeves? New Pistons? New Rings? New (or rebuilt) injectors? Valves? Valve Guides? etc.

The photo you included of the cylinders looks like it has some rust spots, and I'd be most comfortable if those were bored or honed out.

That picture was before I sent the block out.

Sorry I should have included that information from the beginning.
-Bored 040 over
-Machined Crank
-New Pistons all
-New Rods all (one was bent)
-New Rings
-New Injectors
-New Valves
-New Guides
-New Oil Pump
-New Cam Bearings
-Lifters looked perfect just cleaned
-Push rods checked and re-used
-New Idler timing Gear



I dealt with the machine shop dropped and picked up. The machine shop got the Reliant rebuild kit and did the cam bearings, the rings were installed when I got the pistons in the boxes. They said everything was correct and ready for assembly. I have done mechanical work since I can remember and do pretty well on any project BUT, I wanted an experience builder to actually put it together. I have put engines together but I am NOT "The Engine Guy"

The guy that put the internals together came to my shop with his father and put it together. I had everything cleaned, labeled, and laid out on a table like a surgery before the doctor gets there. I watched them and waited on his every request (tools, bolts, supplies...etc). He seemed to know what he was doing. No big red flags on the build.

The owner had it at a repair shop for 3 months. It is a dirty mess to say the least with unfinished tractors sitting everywhere. The shop was probably good 20 years ago. The owner is in his 80's now. . It was never going to get done. The owner wants it done completely and correct. I volunteered to take the project. (not my best decision ever...lol) The owner is a friend of mine with no engine experience and was overwhelmed. He plans on keeping for the long haul and using it on his ranch for baling, and general work after adding a loader.

Thanks for your help

 

[TractorTech]

Looks like a 5610 or 6610. I’ve rebuilt a few and yes they will smoke for a period of time until the rings sear, but I have the same question as CliffordK, was it bored? Block picture shows cylinders in rough shape.

Were the valve guides renewed? Perhaps sucking oil past valves causing oil blubbering.

16 psi is about the low end at 8-900 rpm for oil pressure.

Good move on adding the thermostat. If it doesn’t get temp, the fuel won’t burn right and the engine will not break-in.

Also agree that additives are not necessary.

 

[TractorTech]

Was the head surfaced?

 

[TomSam]

I've never seen a properly rebuilt engine burn oil like that before.


I'd call bs on that one for sure.


New rod and main bearings? Oil pump?

Yes both. I added the information I should have include to begin with to the original post.

Thanks

 

[TomSam]

What do you guys think about driving it around with the brakes depressed to load the engine? Don't think I'd appreciate that on my tractor.

I grimace every time that I ACCIDENTALLY drive off with my brake engaged . . .

I agree 100% The owner was there but I bit my lip and smiled

 

[TractorTech]

Get a few hours on the engine before sweating the oil bypassing as it will take some time to seat the rings.

Oil pressure is somewhat concerning, but your oil pressure alarm may not be 100% accurate. A gauge will tell all. Keep the rpm's at the medium to higher range and you will be fine.

 

[TomSam]

It is boiling black oil? I’m not sure what you’re saying here. How much oil? Oil leaking out of the exhaust manifold would indicate A) exhaust manifold gasket is bad B) Blowby in the piston rings or head assembly 0 need for magical additives if the rebuild was done correctly.
10 psi oil pressure / 1000 rpm is a rule of thumb.

IMO, as long as the oil is leaking into the exhaust manifold it will continue to smoke. How much and where from is what I’d be looking into.

The muffler is just sat up there at this point since I have not put the hood on yet. Black ink like oil runs out of the junction between the muffler and the manifold. It runs down the motor and the fan blows it back on the valve cover and gas tank. It has smoke coming out of the muffler before the manifold is even warm.The amount of oil is hard to estimate. The oil level is at the full mark and has not gone down after 45 minutes of run time at 1000rpms to 1400rpms

Thanks

 

[TomSam]

Get a few hours on the engine before sweating the oil bypassing as it will take some time to seat the rings.

Oil pressure is somewhat concerning, but your oil pressure alarm may not be 100% accurate. A gauge will tell all. Keep the rpm's at the medium to higher range and you will be fine.

I hope you are right! The pressure coincides with the 2 oil pressure gages. one electric one i installed on the dash and the manual one on the side of the motor.

Thanks

 

[TomSam]

Was the head surfaced?

Yes, for sure. The top of the blocked looked ok but not surfaced

Thanks

 

[CliffordK]

Sorry I should have included that information from the beginning.
-Bored 040 over
-Machined Crank
-New Pistons all
-New Rods all (one was bent)
-New Rings
-New Injectors
-New Valves
-New Guides
-New Oil Pump
-New Cam Bearings
-Lifters looked perfect just cleaned
-Push rods checked and re-used
-New Idler timing Gear

I think that sounds like what one would mostly expect for a rebuild.

The oil level is at the full mark and has not gone down after 45 minutes of run time at 1000rpms to 1400rpms

I have an older Deere that belches oil all over the place, and the oil can go down quickly.

Perhaps the shop's advice is best. Keep an eye on the temperature and oil pressure, and just run the tractor for a while.